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2nd Annual Barbecue at Brody's - March 28th

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    Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Post
    technically? no, but if must we can head to my friends garage down the road. But I really dont feel comfortable doing that considering I have to be at two places at once, since its not my garage.

    I guess the hardcore diyer would hvae to either regroup at jeffs or something. Like I want to replace my exhaust thsi weekend, but likely will do it before the meet or after and not during.
    yea I want to get them on before the meet. They'll arrive friday but they may have to wait.

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      Originally posted by Mde36 View Post
      yea I want to get them on before the meet. They'll arrive friday but they may have to wait.
      installing front shocks requires some experience, cause the holding nut can often rust on to the old strut housing, I would use a 24 inch pipe wrench, or at least have in the past, to break if off, after pbblaster and heat to flow the pbblaster intothe threads.

      fronts are a pain

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        Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Post
        installing front shocks requires some experience, cause the holding nut can often rust on to the old strut housing, I would use a 24 inch pipe wrench, or at least have in the past, to break if off, after pbblaster and heat to flow the pbblaster intothe threads.

        fronts are a pain
        its rear shocks, stiffer than the worn out kyb's that are on there now. Hopefully they will get my tires out of my fenders

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          Originally posted by Mde36 View Post
          its rear shocks, stiffer than the worn out kyb's that are on there now. Hopefully they will get my tires out of my fenders
          we can do the rear easily at the bottom of the hill. one bolt bottom two on top a side, doesnt take long. jack it up from teh diff, dont even need jack stands. I swap the rear shock mounts 3 times on the hill already.

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            cool, if its that easy I might do it before the meet to save time. I'll fix my exhaust leak at the meet.

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              Originally posted by Mde36 View Post
              cool, if its that easy I might do it before the meet to save time. I'll fix my exhaust leak at the meet.
              just cut the exhaust off... problem solved haha

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                Originally posted by thereisnoyun View Post
                did you get teh little set screws for the rotors?
                Originally posted by trackbball21 View Post
                No, I did not. I will order those today. Thanks for reminding me.
                You guys don't need that screw. It's really not a must. Some people say "it holds the rotor in place for it to be centered", but that's also a guy that races that says that. Usually they're there only from the assembly line and when people replace the rotors they just put it back.

                Not a must.
                I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.

                Paypal: vdang5@gmail.com

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                  I disagree.

                  I'm also really sad that I'm going to miss this.

                  That is all.
                  Slicktop City!

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                    i love how people get all worried about the rotor screw. it doesn't do anything after you bolt the wheel on. The lug bolts hold the wheel on, which in turn holds the rotor in place. ithe screw has no purpose other than keeping the rotor from falling off before you put the wheel on (the rotor can't come off anyway, because it's blocked by the caliper). i guess it makes it a little easier, but who cares?
                    Originally posted by BillBrasky
                    That's like Vlad challenging Chip Foose to a car painting contest.
                    Originally posted by acolella76
                    i'm pretty sure 'Phillis' is short for syphilis
                    2007 CVPI, stock and slow
                    1994 tercel, 5efhe swap, i/h/e
                    1984 t-type, 5.3/th350 swap in progress

                    My newest addition:
                    Rebecca Arlene, born 4/19/2013

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                      Ugh I need to move closer to teh toilet, so I can partake...but I guess I need to get ol lapis running first

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                        Originally posted by ieatpeople View Post
                        i love how people get all worried about the rotor screw. it doesn't do anything after you bolt the wheel on. The lug bolts hold the wheel on, which in turn holds the rotor in place. ithe screw has no purpose other than keeping the rotor from falling off before you put the wheel on (the rotor can't come off anyway, because it's blocked by the caliper). i guess it makes it a little easier, but who cares?
                        Damn, I just wasted 8 bucks....

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                          if they come with the new rotors than by all means, install the freakin screws, but don't waste money on 4 new screws plus shipping.
                          Originally posted by BillBrasky
                          That's like Vlad challenging Chip Foose to a car painting contest.
                          Originally posted by acolella76
                          i'm pretty sure 'Phillis' is short for syphilis
                          2007 CVPI, stock and slow
                          1994 tercel, 5efhe swap, i/h/e
                          1984 t-type, 5.3/th350 swap in progress

                          My newest addition:
                          Rebecca Arlene, born 4/19/2013

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                            I did just that - wasted 7 dollars on shipping. such a ripoff. Oh well, I'm replacing all that stuff anyways, so might as well do it now.

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                              Ean, you don't need to jack the car up to swap rear shocks. Trust me. I've pulled them a few times just out in a parking lot. You need a 19mm socket for the bottom bolt, then a 13mm one for the top ones, and it depends on what shocks you have as far as what size you need for the gland nut.

                              Oh, and they won't help making it stiffer, they will only help it bounce less.
                              Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

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                                Originally posted by e30_325es View Post
                                Ean, you don't need to jack the car up to swap rear shocks. Trust me. I've pulled them a few times just out in a parking lot. You need a 19mm socket for the bottom bolt, then a 13mm one for the top ones, and it depends on what shocks you have as far as what size you need for the gland nut.

                                Oh, and they won't help making it stiffer, they will only help it bounce less.


                                isn't that the same thing? But thanks that helps

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