Originally posted by Cloudbase
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Originally posted by Bimmerman325i View PostJust so you know Roland, I tried bleeding my E30 with a pressure bleeder once and it never worked. I bled it (after it didn't have rubber brake lines for a week) with the tried and true pedal method in half an hour, and BAM perfect pedal feel.
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Pulled the head off my M3 today... Turns out, when you relentlessly abuse something for as long as I have, it wears out. Shocker there.
Lots of oil being burned in the combustion chambers, due to blowby as well as valve guides/seals. Lots of deposits in the exhaust ports. Cylinder walls have no crosshatch at all on the thrust-bearing sides of the pistons (where the skirts ride.)
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I installed new CAB bushings in NOV. Something is up because my front wheels are way forward in the wheel wells. Even with spacers I'm gonna rub the front wheel plastic. Bimmerman are those places local?
Also the rear RGR's won't fit on the hub. The little metal rings inside the wheel stop about 1/8" on the hub. Could this be an ix to I thing? I doubt it. I didn't have time to clean and grease the hubs either.JOY IS AN E30...
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Originally posted by fsmtnbiker View PostPulled the head off my M3 today... Turns out, when you relentlessly abuse something for as long as I have, it wears out. Shocker there.
Lots of oil being burned in the combustion chambers, due to blowby as well as valve guides/seals. Lots of deposits in the exhaust ports. Cylinder walls have no crosshatch at all on the thrust-bearing sides of the pistons (where the skirts ride.)
Originally posted by Cloudbase View PostI installed new CAB bushings in NOV. Something is up because my front wheels are way forward in the wheel wells. Even with spacers I'm gonna rub the front wheel plastic. Bimmerman are those places local?
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Originally posted by fsmtnbiker View PostPulled the head off my M3 today... Turns out, when you relentlessly abuse something for as long as I have, it wears out. Shocker there.
Lots of oil being burned in the combustion chambers, due to blowby as well as valve guides/seals. Lots of deposits in the exhaust ports. Cylinder walls have no crosshatch at all on the thrust-bearing sides of the pistons (where the skirts ride.)
Also, Cloudbase, i believe the iX and i have the same hub diameter. Just wire brush both mating surfaces and use a little brake caliper grease.
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Originally posted by Bimmerman325i View PostSo what's the diagnosis? Engine rebuildable or just time to replace?
Sam: Not going to have anything leftover. The shop is going to rebuild my old block into a pretty hot motor for one of our racecars.
Also: front control arm bushings are pretty much the only way to adjust caster in a BMW outside of camber plates. Did you install offset CAB's instead of centered? That will change it. Also - As long as caster is even from side-to-side, it doesn't matter if it is out of spec (at least as long as it is on the high side.) Too little caster causes problems, too much rarely does... within reason.
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Originally posted by fsmtnbiker View PostSometimes the rear brake caliper bleeders aren't the highest point in the caliper, and you have to take them loose from the car and reorient them to get the air out.
Also, I've had equal luck with pressure bleeders and pedal bleeding - Never had one work without the other.
Originally posted by fsmtnbiker View PostPulled the head off my M3 today... Turns out, when you relentlessly abuse something for as long as I have, it wears out. Shocker there.
Lots of oil being burned in the combustion chambers, due to blowby as well as valve guides/seals. Lots of deposits in the exhaust ports. Cylinder walls have no crosshatch at all on the thrust-bearing sides of the pistons (where the skirts ride.)
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