Colorado general chat...

[iamsam]

A quick solution would be to trade me suspensions. I have monies too...

[blefevre]

I beat you by 10 seconds! I win.

[Bishop]

when you swapped the strut

All 4 were in the air. Car was on stands for that entire time. From uninstall to install.

If it is the endlink having the clunk wont hurt anything. It is usually the ball joint in the links that go bad and start moving around. You will be fine driving around on them until you get annoyed and fix them.

Having them off lengths right/left a little bit isn't the biggest deal but it won't be "ideal". You can do fun things with preload adjustments with sway bars by changing the lengths if you really want.

Also, my suspension doesn't clunk, hehe. I can just trade with your "clunky" one!

Fix them as in replace? It's just 1 side and they're like a year old...

A quick solution would be to trade me suspensions. I have monies too...

I beat you by 10 seconds! I win.

Brad gets first jump IF I decide to part with the setup lol....

[Roland H]

For proper setting of preload:

Front end link adjustment

The following is for a right-handed person, swap sides if you are left handed:

Always use two wrenches to tighten the end link studs to the existing holes in the strut and sway
bar. Do not use power tools to spin the bearing stud until it tightens. This will void any warranty,
and is easily recognized. The stainless stepped washer remains up against the stud, and the
small gold washer is placed on the other side of the bracket or sway bar.

After installing both sway bar links, and tightening the bolts that hold it to the sway bar and strut:

Start by actually setting the passenger side link length permanently. You will not adjust the length
of this side. Make sure the rod ends are parallel when tightening the jam nuts. This operation
should probably be done with car in the air. This link should be as long as possible, with about
0.750 minimum clearance from the sway bar to the top of the control arm.

Now for the driver’s side, set the length the same as the passenger side, but do not tighten the
jam nuts. For consistency sake, have the left end rod end on the same end (top or bottom) as the
passenger side.

Now, set the car on the ground, and roll or drive the car about 20 feet.

This next step is actually setting the length of the driver’s side link. The best way to do this is for
the car to have been cornerweighted, but at a minimum, the ride heights must have been set.
Adjusting the length of the sway bar links to remove sway bar preload is the very last step in
setting up the car.

With the wheels pointed straight ahead, and the driver or drivers’ equivalent weight in the car,
lie down on your right side and reach up behind the driver’s front tire and grab onto the drivers
side link. Twist the link one way or another, it doesn't matter yet. As you feel the link start to get
harder to turn (adding preload to the sway bar), maybe after 3 turns or so, stop turning. Now start
turning the other direction until the preload feels the same. Keep track of how many turns with
your fingers, it is actually pretty easy.

Lets say you have turned 6 turns between preload clockwise and the same preload
counterclockwise. You may have to go back and forth a few times to make sure what you are
feeling is consistent, but it doesn't take long. You would then split the difference of 6 turns. In
other words, turn the link back to where you felt you were preloading the bar, and turn back 3
turns.
This will be very very very close to zero preload.

[Roland H]

All 4 were in the air. Car was on stands for that entire time. From uninstall to install.

So the endlinks possibly weren't equal lengths at the time of install?

[Bishop]

I never fiddled with them, from original install of coilovers to reinstall of right front.... I just unpacked em and bolted em in.

[iamsam]

Brad gets first jump IF I decide to part with the setup lol....

what? how so?

[Bishop]

Cause he contacted me about my suspension months ago lol... Nothing against you Sam.

[Roland H]

I'd say, first with cash, takes the spoils.

[iamsam]

Cause he contacted me about my suspension months ago lol... Nothing against you Sam.

like I haven't wanted them since you got them?? ;)

no worries, chances are i'll be broke when you do end up selling them

[Bishop]

Well there's no interest in parting with the suspension so.... Doesn't matter right now.

[fsmtnbiker]

Yep, it's the endlink. Really need to have the car on a drive-on lift to set preload evenly (or up on ramps works too, but you have to have the suspension fully loaded.)

The only endlinks that don't clunk are OEM. All the aftermarket stuff that is spherical will clunk in a short time frame (like, 6 months or less.)

Not having the preload set properly doesn't make it clunk - it has a worn spherical joint, that makes it clunk.

[Bishop]

Ok, is the clunk an issue, like... replace it now... or is it just going to be noisy while still doing it's job? As long as I know it's not going to break anything else and still function, just be noisy... I can live with it for now.... That might be worth a beer too Chris, I sent you a message on Facebook.

[Roland H]

Just noisy really. Will still function. Heck, you don't even need a sway to drive around on the street.

[blefevre]

You will be fine with the clunk. Most aftermarket design won't use a plastic, Teflon, or whatever spherical bearing in the link which will cause it to clunk sooner than stock. This is just what I understand of it and bearings but I have never taken apart an endlink.

You will not break anything by having a clunk.