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Originally posted by Roland H View PostEric, what did you not like about the 335d? I think it's an amazing car. Kinda missing the point of a diesel, but it can do 40+ MPG and still destroy an E36 M3.
Brad, do you know much about these Piezo injectors? Seems like they are very possible to become a failure point... diesel injectors are typically a common failure point to begin with.
Mazda 6 Diesel is supposed to be released late this year, that's not too long of a wait. Hopefully they bring the wagon here, it's sexy.
- E30, DSM, Golf R, Mazda 3 Skyactiv
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Originally posted by blefevre View PostI don't know any specifics about Mazdas Piezo injectors, but Piezo injectors are not a new thing. I assume they are just off the shelf Bosch Piezo injectors for more precise fuel control. They are relatively simple in operation and piezoelectric devices are everywhere.
Mazda 6 Diesel is supposed to be released late this year, that's not too long of a wait. Hopefully they bring the wagon here, it's sexy.
I wonder if a similar issue is causing the 335i hpfp failures.
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Originally posted by derekvr4 View PostGuys any one have a m50b25 for sale? I just got screwed by a guy in Indiana so now I need to find one local and get my car back on the road ASAP
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Originally posted by Eric View PostI would take a 1.9 TDi A3 over a 335d any day... That's a fun car to drive the piss out of.
I can't say I agree. The Audi motor is atrociously loud and harsh, and has a comparatively narrow powerband. I do like the size better than the E90, but BMW makes an A3-sized car, we just can't have one because we're stupid americans.
I really liked the 335d. The torque was fantastic. The transmission is not awesome, but manual mode works well. I especially liked the 30-70mph 4th gear pull. And I was averaging better than 20mpg on my 10 mile drive that included significant time spent at >50% throttle.
It is a big, heavy car, no getting around that. But I don't really mind that so much when it isn't a racecar.
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Originally posted by Bimmerman325i View PostWater + computer = bad.
That is all.
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Originally posted by fsmtnbiker View PostSo it's working well enough to post on r3v/fb, but not to work on midterms?
spent a good three hours this morning trying to get the damn thing to boot windows (wouldn't), so i had to make a usb linux bootloader to transfer the relevant midterm files off the hard drives and onto the laptop.
Everything's good now, but goddamn has it been a shitty morning.
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Fuck BMW and it's pressed bushings.
A few weeks ago in one of the most remote parts of Utah between Price and Green River the pax side motor mount failed in our E46 XI wagon. It put the fan into the radiator (that I had literally just preventatively replaced). I was passing a truck at redline and heard an ominous sound, but didn't know what happened till the low coolant light came on about 10 miles later. I was able to limp it in to a gas station in Green River (coasting the last mile because the temp started climbing).
I JB welded the radiator enough to get it the remaining 250 miles home.
The motor mounts weren't too hard to replace once I dropped the front subframe. New and old pax side motor mount.
I figured I better do the tranny mounts too while I was in there. Here is where the real drama began. The XI has a single giant pressed-in bushing in the transfer case similar to a subframe bushing. The automatic gearbox drain pan gives about 2" of space on the front side of the mount. The exhaust gives about the same on the back. My exhaust studs are corrosion welded together at the down pipe and front of the exhaust. There wass not way for me to break it, even with copious amounts of heat. Cutting and replacing the studs with bolts without pulling headers in my garage was not an option. I was left with having to somehow pushing the bushing out in the confines of the space between the exhaust and the gearbox.
XI Transfer Case Bushing (instead of traditional tranny mounts).
Heat wasn't an option because once the bushing started burning it would burn into the transfer case and bottom of the car. Banging on it with an 8' bar didn't even phase it. I could drop the transfer case, but then I'd have to disconnect the drive shaft, which would mean dropping the exhaust. A special tool was the only option. BMW makes a special tool that is also used on the X5, but it's $500 and a week's shipping. I had to make my own.
Here's what I started with.
Here was the finished product (many many hours later). The principle is the same as the homemade subframe bushing tools out there.
Tool in action.
It took about 3 hours to get the tool assembled above the tight confines of the exhaust and push the bushing out. It got it about 3/4s of the way before I ran out of space, but I was able to pry it out the rest of the way with a 3/8" ratchet handle.
New and old bushings.
Now I had to get the new bushing in. Soapy water and forcing it in with hands and pri bars didn't phase it. A new tool would have to be made. I borrowed a piece from my homemade subframe bushing tool and JB welded (I need a welder so bad) a back plate that would press against the irregular surface of the transfer case so I could press the bushing in perpendicular and not at an angle. Here's the tool in action.
The bushing went in a lot quicker than the old one came out. Finally done after investing 2 days of my life. I cannot wait to get a 4 post lift and a welder.
JOY IS AN E30...
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man, Alex, that looks like a serious PITA, but also some serious engineering in action on your part. I usually get too frustrated and start using excessive amounts of force.
As far as rusted exhaust nuts go, I usually hammer on a 12 point socket that is too small, douse the nut/stud in break-free stuff, and hit it with an impact gun (to avoid snapping the stud) or a long cheater bar.
I too need a welder in a BAD way. It would have been super easy to weld on an extra larger nut onto the rusted exhaust nut for better hold with a socket, and the extreme heat of welding will quickly out-do any amount of heat you can put into it with a conventional torch.
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