Garagistic E30 adjustable Rear Subframe exchange program

[Staszek]

Many thanks for the responses guys, I’m quite bummed and really was excited with the quality product initially.

For trouble shooting purposes, I’m curious why the trailing arms are your first guess? How can i know for sure? I will update everyone on status this afternoon but after working all day on the install we were wiped out and disapointed it didnt come together as planned. Uber fees suck too when i was expecting to drive the car home!

I have the same setup, so looking to hear the resolution. I havent tried to align yet due to finishing all the other stuff on the car.

I would call Garagistic, they are pretty responsive.

[thedentonmare]

Details of alignment situation in pic. Can’t wait to get this resolved and get a good looking Garagistic unit back in place!

[kwseattle]

I have the same setup, so looking to hear the resolution. I havent tried to align yet due to finishing all the other stuff on the car.

I would call Garagistic, they are pretty responsive.

To you and thedentonmare, I've got major alignment issues with my subframe as well.

Camber is perfect as far as I'm concerned but toe is wildly out on both sides and that is at maximum adjustment.

I contacted Garagistic last year when I installed the subframe (hardly ever drive my e30 anymore because I have a 335d daily,i still haven't sorted my subframe) and they would not take responsibility for it because I did not provide an alignment sheet from before install. I have a 5 lug conversion and the (reinforced) 318ti trailing arms I have are incredibly expensive new (they might even be NLA), so it is not feasible for me to replace them.

I actually have a freshly powder coated stock subframe ready to go in with the Garagistic 12mm raised subframe bushings to reduce the camber, and I'm leaving toe alone.

The adjustment mechanism of eccentric bolts is just not practical for street car purposes especially given the fact that you cannot fit standard tools within the space where the bolts live. This means you can't adjust while the subframe is installed, and you certainly can't torque them while installed either.

I've attached an image of the alignment sheet right after install as well.

[thedentonmare]

I spoke with Garagistic who suspects the issue is with the drivers side trailing arm. They’re welding up and powder coating a new part and sending to my installer.

So far I’m pleased with the response, but it sucks to have the car nearly back together and have this happen.

If it turns out to be the subframe after all ( I purchased all new subframe and trailing arms from them). I will be heart broken and frustrated and probably be forced to get another product elsewhere! Hopefully that doesn’t happen and the trailing arm replacement solves the issue.

[jph]

I spoke with Garagistic who suspects the issue is with the drivers side trailing arm. They’re welding up and powder coating a new part and sending to my installer.

So far I’m pleased with the response, but it sucks to have the car nearly back together and have this happen.

If it turns out to be the subframe after all ( I purchased all new subframe and trailing arms from them). I will be heart broken and frustrated and probably be forced to get another product elsewhere! Hopefully that doesn’t happen and the trailing arm replacement solves the issue.

Please keep us posted!

[thedentonmare]

Latest update is that we experienced further delays getting the replacement control arm due to a blemish on powder coating.

I'm pleased that Garagistic cares enough about sending out a quality product that they refused the powder coating and sent it back to their partner... but obviously frustrated that this has turned into a multi-week saga story with my car laid up at the shop.

ETA for the shipment is now Monday 6/25 to land at the shop, at which point we'll try reinstall and alignment. If we still have issues, then will have to assume that the subframe is the issue and I will ugly cry in my closet at the prospect of further delays.

More to come..

[LateFan]

I need some schooling on these please....

1. If you go with the weld-on adjustable mounts, how is the placement of these done so they're accurate? I can see me dropping it off at Cowboy Bob Welders and they're not too sharp on millimeters much less 10ths of millimeters.

2. What keeps the eccentric bolts from slipping in the slots? Isn't there another fabricator out there where I read about constant slipping out of adjustment?

3. Do you have a jig to check trailing arms for previous bends? From what I know, it's very hard to tell if they're bent from looking at them.


I'm very interested in the outcome of mr denton's problem and whether it's a quality control issue.

We rebuilt the subframe and trailing arms with all new OEM bushings, mildly lowered it with H&R sport springs, and we trashed a new set of rear tires in less than 8000 miles. So we need a solution.

[AWDBOB]

I need some schooling on these please....
1. If you go with the weld-on adjustable mounts, how is the placement of these done so they're accurate? I can see me dropping it off at Cowboy Bob Welders and they're not too sharp on millimeters much less 10ths of millimeters.
2. What keeps the eccentric bolts from slipping in the slots? Isn't there another fabricator out there where I read about constant slipping out of adjustment?
3. Do you have a jig to check trailing arms for previous bends? From what I know, it's very hard to tell if they're bent from looking at them.
I'm very interested in the outcome of mr denton's problem and whether it's a quality control issue.
We rebuilt the subframe and trailing arms with all new OEM bushings, mildly lowered it with H&R sport springs, and we trashed a new set of rear tires in less than 8000 miles. So we need a solution.

The "proper" way to install a rear camber/toe kit is to put your car on an alignment rack before you install them to see how much you need for adjustment in each direction. However, Garagistic just installs these "in der Mitte" as a once size fits all approach.

With that said, they should provide enough adjustment to solve the majority of rear camber/toe issues outside of extreme cases like stanceboylowlow and/or bent TAs, etc, and I'm assuming if you are an 'extreme' case you could provide them with this information beforehand to get them welded on properly.

In regards to eccentric bolts slipping, it's common for them to move unfortunately. However, IE came out with a Posi-Lock Style kit to help mitigate the slippage. These are not the adjusters Garagistic is using.

With all of that said, I am on GC coilovers and am running the Garagistic rear adjustable subframe with Poly bushings, and am not slammed, but am fairly low. The Garagistic subframe offered enough adjustment for me to get the rear of my car in spec.

Hope this helps.

Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr
Untitled by Bobbie Morrone, on Flickr

[Mahalaleel]

Many thanks for the responses guys, I’m quite bummed and really was excited with the quality product initially.

For trouble shooting purposes, I’m curious why the trailing arms are your first guess? How can i know for sure? I will update everyone on status this afternoon but after working all day on the install we were wiped out and disapointed it didnt come together as planned. Uber fees suck too when i was expecting to drive the car home!

Did you get this resolved? I'm in DFW and have rear subframe and trailing arms in my Garagistic cart, but mine are both rusty so I figured I wouldn't be able to get the core charge back. Before I commit $1200+ to this I'd want to be sure everything works out for you.

My front subframe was protected from rust by the oil leak, yes!

[LateFan]

The "proper" way to install a rear camber/toe kit is to put your car on an alignment rack before you install them to see how much you need for adjustment in each direction.

Here are our numbers. We just had the rear checked when we found the trashed tires.

[thedentonmare]

Picked the car back up this morning, and can report success.

The guys at the shop were actually surprised that it came down to a faulty trailing arm as the issue. Swapped out the problematic drivers side, and were able to adjust it into alignment with the right side.

I'll try and post #'s later on.

Thanks again to Garagistic for making this right, now to get all my $$$ back from core refunds and the other trailing arm that I paid for to correct the issue.

I've yet to do any extensive driving, but so far I'm happy at the end of this long journey.

[jph]

Picked the car back up this morning, and can report success.

The guys at the shop were actually surprised that it came down to a faulty trailing arm as the issue. Swapped out the problematic drivers side, and were able to adjust it into alignment with the right side.

I'll try and post #'s later on.

Thanks again to Garagistic for making this right, now to get all my $$$ back from core refunds and the other trailing arm that I paid for to correct the issue.

I've yet to do any extensive driving, but so far I'm happy at the end of this long journey.

Glad to hear it all worked out for you. Might help someone down the line diagnose a similar issue. Good stuff!

[ak-]

I need some schooling on these please....



2. What keeps the eccentric bolts from slipping in the slots? Isn't there another fabricator out there where I read about constant slipping out of adjustment?

After it's aligned, small tack weld so it won't move.

[Staszek]

Picked the car back up this morning, and can report success.

The guys at the shop were actually surprised that it came down to a faulty trailing arm as the issue. Swapped out the problematic drivers side, and were able to adjust it into alignment with the right side.

I'll try and post #'s later on.

Thanks again to Garagistic for making this right, now to get all my $$$ back from core refunds and the other trailing arm that I paid for to correct the issue.

I've yet to do any extensive driving, but so far I'm happy at the end of this long journey.

Awesome, glad it worked out, and glad Garagistic stood behind their product.

[jph]

After it's aligned, small tack weld so it won't move.

No offense, but I’m not sure this is a great idea for a couple of reasons. First is the next time an alignment is needed it’s pretty much impossible without grinding off the tacks and second welding that close to the gas tank is not advisable. Also refer to gas tank comment when considering grinding off tack welds for later adjustment. Getting a wrench in to make adjustments is difficult enough (pretty much impossible for passenger toe with gas tank installed), let alone a grinder to remove welds down the road.

If you plan to always run the same tires, tire pressures, and ride height, and if you also plan for your suspension to never get old and settle, then maybe this makes sense...but only after tack welding with the gas tank removed.