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MIKe30's 11:1 cammed OBD2 s52 build

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    Originally posted by MIKe30 View Post
    yowza. gonna hit your thread, see if you cleared it up yet.


    Gathering the last bits yet, don't plan on starting it until it's ready to roll, so it's going to be a few more days. In the meantime, here is what showed up today :)



    Your car is going to sound amazing with the euro headers and this cat-back! :pimp:

    Good luck Mike, now get her done!!! :hitler:
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      So close to getting this started and I'm stuck on a stupid booster issue. Rented a tap/die set from autozone since my unreliable friend didn't come through with his... only to find out it's a re-thread set - to fix damaged threads only, not to cut new threads. fml.

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        Got her started tonight!!!! At first it didn't stay running, think it's little vacuum issue. I know a couple places that I neglected to put hose clamps on and my throttle body is missing one screw. forgot to order one when i ordered my other stuff, oops.

        Started it again later and it stayed on, doesn't respond to the throttle too well though. Aside from a vacuum leak, I'm thinking I either have the wrong plug in the TPS, or I need to check my TPS values and set it right.

        For some reason I feel like my tps wire was plugged in on the traction control sensor part of the tb when I received the motor, but the only other 3-prong plug I can see is the ICV one - and I'm pretty sure I have that right.


        Anyway, feels good to hear it run. Have to take care of the booster tomorrow, I had a lot of troubles today with it trying to cut and re-thread it. It came out like shit and I think I'm going to try and have somebody weld it up tomorrow. Hope to God that a weld will be strong enough for the lever forces when braking. Anyone think it's a bad idea?

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          Can't wait for a vid of the exaust tone.
          84 318I Delphin RIP
          87 325IS delphin 24v Sold
          89 325 Alpineweiss

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            The no brake booster would cause quite the vacuum leak ;)

            Glad you got it running now get it finished man!

            -Cam
            Cam .W '91 325is

            Spaz's 1991 Alpine White???? S52 Build Thread...

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              Originally posted by Spaz View Post
              The no brake booster would cause quite the vacuum leak ;)

              Glad you got it running now get it finished man!

              -Cam
              Originally posted by 416stroker View Post
              Can't wait for a vid of the exaust tone.
              Who said I'm making any videos?! ;)

              Funny though, my dad was there when I started it. He used to have a garage with his dad back in the day so he knows his way around cars. I started it up, and he plugged the mani where the brake booster goes with his finger (I actually cut/installed a small piece of hose with the check valve attached thinking it would act like it was capped off, but guess not). After the motor shut off, he goes - hm, sounds like you have an exhaust leak!

              "ya, think dad? It's open headers... haha"



              later on i tried it again, but I taped off the end of the check valve with electrical tape. This time it stayed running but it still wasn't acting right with throttle and the rev's would stay high and come down super slow. We'll see how today goes..

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                Originally posted by MIKe30 View Post
                Hope to God that a weld will be strong enough for the lever forces when braking. Anyone think it's a bad idea?
                There's very little leverage on the rod, it's mostly compression. So a GOOD weld will be fine. Make sure an experienced professional does it. It's worth whatever the cost is.

                I went with the cut/rethread the shaft and drill out/rethread the clevis pin option. I ended up with a weird thread size. I had some local Mennonite guy do it, as a proper tap/die set is $$$.
                85 325e m60b44 6 speed / 89 535i
                e30 restoration and V8 swap
                24 Hours of Lemons e30 build

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                  Originally posted by JGood View Post
                  There's very little leverage on the rod, it's mostly compression. So a GOOD weld will be fine. Make sure an experienced professional does it. It's worth whatever the cost is.

                  I went with the cut/rethread the shaft and drill out/rethread the clevis pin option. I ended up with a weird thread size. I had some local Mennonite guy do it, as a proper tap/die set is $$$.
                  Thanks for the would be assurance. Turns out the guy I went to today to do the weld (an ironworker by trade) was able to thread it the right size. He said the weld would have been the strongest point on the entire rod, but the metal surrounding the rod may have been ever so slightly compromised.

                  He felt much better about it being able to thread it properly. I threw him a $20 and went on my way.

                  Yea, my dad said good tap/die sets are middle 3-figure territory $$$


                  Uploading a vid now :p

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                      Very nice! welcome to the club!

                      www.gutenparts.com
                      One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

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                        Originally posted by e30s52 View Post
                        Very nice! welcome to the club!
                        Thanks! Have to go outside and mount the master/bleed the brakes.

                        I tried to find a master bench bleeder kit but couldnt find one. I'll see what I can do without one, but I don't think it's going to be pretty.

                        I'm thinking from the sounds of it, I can get it to where it's safely driveable, but then I'll just buy a new master and new slave for the hell of it and install them later (before I drive it on a regular basis and definately before my hpde day comes up).


                        Trying to take it out for a spin tonight!

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                          Originally posted by MIKe30 View Post
                          Thanks! Have to go outside and mount the master/bleed the brakes.

                          I tried to find a master bench bleeder kit but couldnt find one. I'll see what I can do without one, but I don't think it's going to be pretty.

                          I'm thinking from the sounds of it, I can get it to where it's safely driveable, but then I'll just buy a new master and new slave for the hell of it and install them later (before I drive it on a regular basis and definately before my hpde day comes up).


                          Trying to take it out for a spin tonight!
                          I have a snap-on one and it works really well but I dont think you want to pay there price if you only use it once.

                          www.gutenparts.com
                          One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

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                            sounds awesome with open headers doesn't it?! congratulations and welcome to the club :)
                            IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here

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                              Don't worry, we were able to bleed the master find on the car, with all new calipers, didn't take as much fluid as I thought it would either.

                              Congrats on getting it running!!
                              Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
                              Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries

                              www.gutenparts.com
                              One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!

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                                Congratz dude :D
                                Cam .W '91 325is

                                Spaz's 1991 Alpine White???? S52 Build Thread...

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