Originally posted by bejbis
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Header selection ? for M50 swap
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As time went on, the factory developed the car each year, making it faster, more comfortable, and capable of handling at higher speeds.
You don’t want this. You want the trickiest, most dangerous, oldest model you can find. Only then can you prove to the world that you’re a man.
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Originally posted by madjurgen View PostI like this solution. What are the OBD2 headers made of, SS? I'd like to be able to do it myself but I only have a MIG welder. Any other modifications you had to do to get them to fit?
I apparently didn't have to clock them, as other forum members have used them without problems. I just didn't like the look of the bend that would have to be made to clear the sway bar and subframe.
They are made of stainless. I welded them with a TIG. And yes, all i did was cut and clock them, if i had to guess, about 30-40 degrees counterclockwise if you are looking at the flange.-Dan
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Originally posted by FredK View PostThose look like Genie headers to me.
http://forums.bimmerforums.com/forum...d.php?t=797696
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Genie headers do not clear the firewall in an E30, as I found out the hard way. One of the post-collector pipes interferes with the firewall. It clears the front subframe fine, though.
I'll be cutting and welding my set.
Originally posted by whysimonWTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)
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Originally posted by hoveringuy View PostWere they the same as the SS reps or did they have $1000 quality?
I'm also seriously considering the CARR shorty headers. The M54 is a strong low and mid range motor so these might suite me well..
m
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Originally posted by hoveringuy View PostI'd get the Turner ones if they weren't $800. Is it worth getting really good collectors on shorty headers??
Except putting them on and taking them off. 11mm angled ratcheting wrench will be your best friend.Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries
www.gutenparts.com
One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!
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Originally posted by bejbis View PostI apparently didn't have to clock them, as other forum members have used them without problems. I just didn't like the look of the bend that would have to be made to clear the sway bar and subframe.
They are made of stainless. I welded them with a TIG. And yes, all i did was cut and clock them, if i had to guess, about 30-40 degrees counterclockwise if you are looking at the flange.
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I have a 140A MIG and at the time I tried to plug the header flanges, I was very inexperienced at welding. I'm a little better now, so I know with plenty of preheat that I could lay down a bead that'd be good enough to plug the channel, using stainless wire.
Originally posted by whysimonWTF is hello Kitty (I'm 28 with no kids and I don't have cable)
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Originally posted by xwill112x View Postwhy does everyone do headers with their swap? more power? or do the e34/e36 ones not fit?
Well if you buy QUALITY headers. I wouldn't be surprised if some of the cheap eBay knock off stuff didn't do help at all.Need parts now? Need them cheap? steve@blunttech.com
Chief Sales Officer, Midwest Division—Blunt Tech Industries
www.gutenparts.com
One stop shopping for NEW, USED and EURO PARTS!
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