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Any tips on securing the battery tray wiring cover? I can't see and way to keep it in place.
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The plastic M3 cover? It has two posts on the bottom that go into holes in the battery tray obviously. At the top, I used the rubber weatherstripping to secure it. Just put it over the metal lip AND the plastic cover.
Found the post... I'm just un observant. Wiring is complete and the engine had been fired. Picking up the last few parts tonight, hope to test drive this weekend.
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Originally posted by TimKninja
Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.
Anyone else running the old style coolant res? How did you run the supply hose? I found one that is like the perfect length with a90deg formed end and just ran it across the top of the radiator.
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Originally posted by TimKninja
Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.
Well I was hoping to get the downpipes from an e36 and graft then on to a custom center section
My (original) setup is M52/S52 exhaust manifolds and S50 downpipe.
The manifolds are fine, but the downpipe needed to be slightly modified. The subframe also needed a little "massaging" to all work together. Its overall a pretty tight fit and the downpipe hangs a little low, so not the best ideal setup, but if you're modifying it you should be able to remedy most of the problems of using OEM parts.
Simon
Current Cars:
-1999 996.1 911 4/98 3.8L 6-Speed, 21st Century Beetle
Still haven't driven it but I have everything together except the exhaust. Debating on having the shop reuse my e30 cat section or make a new one with 2 new cats.
I started it up again a few times and its revving up on its own. I shut it off when it got to about 4k. Any idea what could be causing this. It didn't do this the first time but I didn't have the maf hooked up (already tested with the maf unhooked) or the throttle cable (will check this next but I don't think that's it).
Any tips?
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Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by TimKninja
Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.
I started it up again a few times and its revving up on its own. I shut it off when it got to about 4k. Any idea what could be causing this. It didn't do this the first time but I didn't have the maf hooked up (already tested with the maf unhooked) or the throttle cable (will check this next but I don't think that's it).
Big vacuum leak?
Originally posted by priapism
My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
Originally posted by shameson
Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30
Got it up and running, new center section with a single cat (acting as an x pipe). This runs in to my stromung and it sounds... Pretty bad. Too loud and just not that pleasant to hear. I think I might try to see if I can trade mufflers for an ie catback.
I do have a couple problems as well.
#1 exhaust leaks. Muffler ship said I have a cracked header, so I need to find that.
#2 idle, this thing isles like crap, especially coming down from higher revs. Need to clean the icv and check for vac leaks.
#3 shifter. First off, I am using the zf trans with e30 flywheel and clutch, e36 slave cyl. The clutch pedal is crazy light. It works fine, just very light, not much feel. The budget issue is the selector rid must be too short because 2nd and 4th have shallower engagement than r135. And the shifter sits to the right. I am using a stock unmodified e36 selector rod and a modified sheet metal console mounted to the trans tunnel.
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Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.
Originally posted by TimKninja
Im more afraid of this thread turning into one of those classic R3v moments, where Pizza gets delivered.
Got another worrying issue/observation. With the clutch depressed fully I am getting a light grinding sound and vibration in the pedal. It seems like some portion of the clutch actuation (slave fork or tob) is contacting part of the rotating assembly.
Anyone have experience with this?
Edit: got back in after lunch and have a revised theory on that one. I think the actual issue is that the clutch isn't fully disengaging, so the noise/vibe I felt was a light engagement in the clutch. My reason for thinking this is that it only did it when a gear was selected. In neutral it didn't do it because the trans could freewheel. Anyway, it didn't do it but like once or twice in the parking lot then it stopped. Do people running e36 slave cylinder us the e36 master as well?
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