The comprehensive DOHC engine swap thread.

[Ryan Stewart]

It doesnt cost more, my EWS deleted chip was only 250. Call them.

[C ///M]

It doesnt cost more, my EWS deleted chip was only 250. Call them.

Yea...that sounds better.

[kylebes1]

got some moving done Thursday and today. I pulled the m20 b27 out of the 86 coupe i got, in about four hours time.

I cut the front end off my wrecked car and was able to disconnect everything and start lifting the car off the front subframe. That took about 4.2 hours. I was about 30 minutes into pulling the car off the subframe when mom called and said meet me at Chills for supper. I dropped and ran, had not eaten since 11:00 that morning!

I hope to get the engine seperated Monday. Since the weather is gettting so cold and my grandpa needs his shop, my older friend is letting me use his shop. This way I can just use the lift to drop my 86 onto the m50.

Any idea why the fucking blots that hold the loolly pops on will not come out?

[bmwe3]

is it eaier to install the engine and trans as one piece or install the engine 1st? after waiting for weeks on my parts everythings here took the s14 out today s50 gos in monday and hopefully running with the m3 4.10 lol that should be fun

[Brew]

is it eaier to install the engine and trans as one piece or install the engine 1st?

I found it was much easier to put them in as one piece.

[kylebes1]

stuck mine in as one peice two times now.

just leave the a/c compressor and power steering pump off and it makes it a little easier.

[SmokinTires]

Hey guys, my motor is getting close. I hope to start it first thing in the morning, can't wait.
I've read many things about different trans mounts and still haven't found a straight answer. I'm running my stock 260 trans and I'm going to pick up the proper mounts, which ones did you guys use with or without spacers. I'd rather not make a custom mount if its not needed.
Thanks

[bmwe3]

installed my motor in today hopefully start it tomarrow actually went in easy motor mount bolts are a bitch to tighten to the subframe. ill get pics tomarrow

[tranceguy]

Well guys, I'm still having troubles getting this thing going. Here is what my c101 looks like:

e30 - e36
1 - 25
2
3
4 - 12
5 - 23
6
7 - 21
8
9
10
11 - 19
12 - 8
13 - 13
14
15
16
17
18 - 18
19
20

I'm still not getting power to my fuel pump. I don't think my main relay or o2 relay is kicking in either. All I hear when I turn the key to "on" is a relay in the fuse box kick in.

Can anyone out there point me in the right direction?

[ian332isport]

Everything looks okay, but I would still be tempted to connect 15 to 15 to get the unloader circuit running. I would also connect E30 pin 6 to E36 pin 22. I know the ETM only shows this providing power for the E36 reverse lights, but on my Euro engine, this also powers a bunch of other circuits. It certainly won't do any harm.

None of the above (in theory) should stop the engine from running though.

Which relay is clicking in the fuse box ?

I would also try checking the fuel pump while the engine is cranking. On some models, the pump will not run unless the DME see's the engine rotating.

I assume you have all the correct E36 relays fitted correctly ?

Ian.

[tranceguy]

Yeah. I've tried swapping out relays. Still nothing. I tested for power, ground and signal at the relays and my readings just don't seem right at all. Inside the big black box behind the motor there are a bunch of red wires with a white stripe that hook together. I'm assuming those are either ignition/main relay power wires to power all the sensors, right? I'm not even getting anything from those.

[kylebes1]

is the ground strap on like the 6th coil in place? There should be one there and possilby on others, I think my first m50tu had on on the 6th and another on the 3rd, the one i have now has one on the 6th.

[ian332isport]

Yeah. I've tried swapping out relays. Still nothing. I tested for power, ground and signal at the relays and my readings just don't seem right at all. Inside the big black box behind the motor there are a bunch of red wires with a white stripe that hook together. I'm assuming those are either ignition/main relay power wires to power all the sensors, right? I'm not even getting anything from those.

Okay, you must have power on those red/white wires for it to work. Power to these wires comes direct from the main relay.

On the main relay, there should be two red wires (one fat, the other thin). Do you have power on these wires ?

If you have power here, then the relay is either not being switched by the DME, or the relay is faulty.

Ian.

[tranceguy]

Ok, from what I can tell, the DME is not switching on the relays. Would it be possible for me to send someone on the board here (preferably with a HIGH post count) my DME(s) and test them on their cars? Ryan, if you had time, and if you wanted to, I'd prefer that you did it since you have a spare EWS disabling chip laying around that could be tested in one of my DMEs.

[bmwe3]

[quote]I'm still not getting power to my fuel pump. I don't think my main relay or o2 relay is kicking in either. All I hear when I turn the key to "on" is a relay in the fuse box kick in.

i got my motor completely in and this is exactly what my motor is doing cranks good no power to fuel pump relay i jumped the fuel pump relay wire to a hot and pump fuel in but still no spark im thinking there is no signal going to the dme for it to know when to fire the injectors/spark. the blue/yellow wire on the back side of the instrument cluster gos to what pin on the dme plug? i have a 90 m3 there are also 2 wires under the dash i have no idea where they go red/blk and purple/black. i got my wiring diagram from mike who has done a few e30m3 s50 gotta give him a call tomarrow.