Anyone know where I can find the harness bracket that connects to the block and chills under the intake manifold???????????!!!!!
Thanks!!!
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Hi Guys,
I'm currently working on a built m50b30 swap. My car was a '89 325i e30. The engine is very close to the firewall and I don't know how should I connect the heater hoses. I'm using e28 535i mounts with washers on the driver's side.
Another problem is that the engine is not sitting perfectly straigt in the engine bay. The front is a little bit close to the passanger side while the back is close to the driver's side and the whole engine almost hits the firewall. Unfortunately it is not visible on the picture.
How can I solve these issues? Any idea would be appreciated!Last edited by Cerruti; 11-12-2013, 06:48 AM.
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The "T" I used was a factory piece that the E30 has in the back, underneath the car. This eliminates having a different pitch/ thread/ diameter as factory. Hope yours works out
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Originally posted by 2man View PostProblem : NON-ABS car using the iX booster and master. Solution:???? So far Im thinking that I need to "T" the front lines into one, and the other one to be used for the rear
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Problem : NON-ABS car using the iX booster and master. Solution:???? So far Im thinking that I need to "T" the front lines into one, and the other one to be used for the rear
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Just wanted to double check, but 24v with G260 MUST have 323i Throwout bearing, correct?
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Originally posted by Steven View PostAs far as condor motor mounts go, which arms will I need?
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Originally posted by golde30 View PostOriginally posted by bimmerteck View PostThe number and size required varies slightly by chassis, year, and options. On the '88 M3 I wired this evening I used 12x small(191), 2x medium(193), and 2x large(195), I don't typically count but I was already at it. I know the 318 I wired last week took 1 more medium and at least 1 less small but it was a later chassis so it had the ABS pin in the 101 but no oil temp b/c it wasn't an "M". The easiest way to know what you will need for sure is to flip your chassis's c101 over, pull back the boot and count.
In the picture below the left most(BR/GN) uses a 191, middle(GN) uses a 193, and the right most (VI/RD) is a 195.
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Originally posted by Steven View PostOh I saw your thread, I was really wondering hw many large and small pins I should order.... I should've been more specific. I'm not adding or taking out anything.
In the picture below the left most(BR/GN) uses a 191, middle(GN) uses a 193, and the right most (VI/RD) is a 195.
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Originally posted by bimmerteck View PostDepends on if you're keeping all chassis functionality(I've removed some circuits on cars being prepped for track use since the OE idiot lights are not useful if you have no stock cluster.) and whether you're adding any circuits for ancillary gauges and such. IIRC you can do it with as few as 7 pins but all my customers/friends end up closer to 22 male and 3 female. I add an x20 to the e30 so I could have up to 25 male pins. If you reuse the c101 you should need no more than 20 male pins. Though you need to figure out how many of them need to be large vs small. Post below is from my build thread showing how I generally rewire them including PNs for the factory pins and the pin removal tool. ;)
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...1&postcount=55
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Originally posted by Steven View PostQuick question, how many pins should I need to repin the c101?
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...1&postcount=55
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