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Another S52 swap... but this time with a newb!

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  • dude8383
    replied
    Originally posted by jahnaboi View Post
    Too bad I'm already running obd2 headers with obd1 midpipes without a cat (straightpipes) in its place. Used e30 flanges on the obd1 midpipes so I could mount the stock e30 muffler. Had to weld laying down under my car so it hangs lower than I would like it to. Gotta fix it later on.
    im also using OBDII manifolds and OBDI cats.

    at least you can drive the thing now!

    Leave a comment:


  • jahnaboi
    replied
    Too bad I'm already running obd2 headers with obd1 midpipes without a cat (straightpipes) in its place. Used e30 flanges on the obd1 midpipes so I could mount the stock e30 muffler. Had to weld laying down under my car so it hangs lower than I would like it to. Gotta fix it later on.

    Leave a comment:


  • dude8383
    replied
    Originally posted by jahnaboi View Post
    Is that what your running? What pipe needs to be modified?
    yep, that is exactly what i'm running. i bought this brand new:





    the pipe that is closed to the passenger will have to be tweaked slightly so that it can clear the front subframe.

    Leave a comment:


  • jahnaboi
    replied
    If I had my blow torch and didn't leave it 25 miles away the night I took it out I would have had it done in one night. Took two days one night for it to be completely back together.

    Leave a comment:


  • Naplm00
    replied
    how long did it take you to drop the rear subframe and replace the bushings?
    Last edited by Naplm00; 01-02-2009, 10:38 AM.

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  • jahnaboi
    replied
    Is that what your running? What pipe needs to be modified?

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  • dude8383
    replied
    or you could get e36 cats/midpipes and e36 catback...you'll have to modify one of the exhaust pipes but its factory shit that won't fail..

    Leave a comment:


  • e30polak
    replied
    Originally posted by jahnaboi View Post
    I know. But I'm looking for cheaper/better alternatives than the SS replica's. These kind of look like the AA headers as the flanges look like it will mate to a AA track pipe (obd2).
    Nothing will be cheaper, and they aren't proven to fail. Just buy them and be doen with it.

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  • jahnaboi
    replied
    Seems rather accurate to me while driving. Oh well, useless stuff in my priorities. Lol.

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  • chuck90m3
    replied
    Originally posted by dude8383 View Post
    won't be accurate.
    It wont be a dead gauge though, and how accurate is a sweeping needle anyway?

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  • jahnaboi
    replied
    Originally posted by dude8383 View Post
    won't be accurate.
    So what do I hook it up to? Its a black/purple wire that I don't know what it hooks up to.

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  • dude8383
    replied
    Originally posted by Mohammed_A View Post
    after the swap, will the fuel consumption gauge still work?
    won't be accurate.

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  • Mohammed_A
    replied
    Originally posted by jahnaboi View Post
    Fuel consumption gauge? The black/red wire is for the idle bump for the a/c button when its pushed that needs to be tapped into pin 63 of the 413 dme. Don't know where the "fuel consumption gauge" is suppose to be hooked up to.

    after the swap, will the fuel consumption gauge still work?

    Leave a comment:


  • chuck90m3
    replied
    Originally posted by jahnaboi View Post
    Fuel consumption gauge? The black/red wire is for the idle bump for the a/c button when its pushed that needs to be tapped into pin 63 of the 413 dme. Don't know where the "fuel consumption gauge" is suppose to be hooked up to.
    Corrected. I had that connector confused with the one I use from the OBC for the road speed input and the fuel economy gauge

    Leave a comment:


  • jahnaboi
    replied
    Fuel consumption gauge? The black/red wire is for the idle bump for the a/c button when its pushed that needs to be tapped into pin 63 of the 413 dme. Don't know where the "fuel consumption gauge" is suppose to be hooked up to.

    Leave a comment:

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