M54 Madness, the remix

[hoveringuy]

Some injectors have the groove for the fuel rail clip, some don't. There's nothing that the injector seats in when it goes into the M50 manifold bore, it can go down 6 or more mm, enough that if it works its way out of the fuel rail it will spray fuel until you BBQ the car.

It looks like what he did is print some collars that give the injectors something to seat against, so they are squeezed between the fuel rail and the manifold.

Out of all the people that have switched injectors I can't possibly the only one that's noticed this? Is everyone else just using injectors without clips??

[Sh3rpak!ng]

Question: Is there a solution to the EV6 injectors leaking? I had one pop out enough while warming up the motor to spray a lot of gas on the motor. I swapped the stock M50 ones back in for now. The upper O-ring on my 24# injectors look slightly lower in the fuel rail bore than the stock ones. Do I need extra spacers in the manifold?

I'm guessing you can't use the normal clips that hold the injectors to the fuel rail?

Check out this thread, post 578 and 583. Looks like he has the same issue (not being able to use the clips) so he made some spacers to hold the injectors in place.

http://www.bimmerforums.com/forum/sh...-9-inch/page24

[e30polak]

Y pipe is too close to the manifold....

Agreed, will hurt low end torque.

[TheAxiom]

You win the prize. The ICV was stuck. I swapped it with the one from the other motor and it idles perfectly.

Verified timing. dead-nuts on.

My favorite features so far is that the oil pan is gloriously tucked in behind the subframe, and the exhaust fits perfectly. I sent Tyler a set of generic Raceland headers and asked him to rework the ends to fit the subframe. The result is brilliant. Pictures to follow...

I have everything connected and just need to bleed the clutch. First (short) drive should be today.

Question: Is there a solution to the EV6 injectors leaking? I had one pop out enough while warming up the motor to spray a lot of gas on the motor. I swapped the stock M50 ones back in for now. The upper O-ring on my 24# injectors look slightly lower in the fuel rail bore than the stock ones. Do I need extra spacers in the manifold?

Y pipe is too close to the manifold....

[hoveringuy]

Is your idle valve working? - If you have to open the throttle maybe it is not?

Really looking forward to see the dyno of this set up, when you have it set up as you want it.

You win the prize. The ICV was stuck. I swapped it with the one from the other motor and it idles perfectly.

Verified timing. dead-nuts on.

My favorite features so far is that the oil pan is gloriously tucked in behind the subframe, and the exhaust fits perfectly. I sent Tyler a set of generic Raceland headers and asked him to rework the ends to fit the subframe. The result is brilliant. Pictures to follow...

I have everything connected and just need to bleed the clutch. First (short) drive should be today.

Question: Is there a solution to the EV6 injectors leaking? I had one pop out enough while warming up the motor to spray a lot of gas on the motor. I swapped the stock M50 ones back in for now. The upper O-ring on my 24# injectors look slightly lower in the fuel rail bore than the stock ones. Do I need extra spacers in the manifold?

[mike25]

It runs! Most of my other swaps have been install motor, connect fuel lines, some electrical connection and Start!

This one has been a little more troublesome. After replacing the starter it would still only run for a second before quitting. Finally got it idling after adjusting timing, dwell and holding the TB open a tiny bit.

It sounds great through open headers! More importantly, no ominous grinding sounds, metallic interference or anything like that.

Now installing cooling system, exhaust and driveline, as well as front suspension.

Is your idle valve working? - If you have to open the throttle maybe it is not?

Really looking forward to see the dyno of this set up, when you have it set up as you want it.

[hoveringuy]

It runs! Most of my other swaps have been install motor, connect fuel lines, some electrical connection and Start!

This one has been a little more troublesome. After replacing the starter it would still only run for a second before quitting. Finally got it idling after adjusting timing, dwell and holding the TB open a tiny bit.

It sounds great through open headers! More importantly, no ominous grinding sounds, metallic interference or anything like that.

Now installing cooling system, exhaust and driveline, as well as front suspension.

[Dofo]

Bla


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[2mAn]

I was hoping to celebrate Memorial Day with the roar of an unmuffled M54 but after turning the key... nothing.

that is the proper way to celebrate it

[hoveringuy]

So the motor went in yesterday and everything thing fit Ok with the ArcAsylum subframe. I'll keep an eye on it, of course.

I was hoping to celebrate Memorial Day with the roar of an unmuffled M54 but after turning the key... nothing.

After checking the usual suspects: engine ground, battery charged and such determined starter was bad and verified after I removed it. I'm not sure how a starter goes bad on the garage floor, but this one had a non-functioning unloader terminal from the start so I think it's some kind of internal ground issue.

[hoveringuy]

you can always modify the oilpan and leave the flywheel stock with its stock weight.

The clearance issue was at the head of the bolt that holds oil pan. Machinist took off .1". (100 thousandths) and it clears fine now

[emmanuel.dlc]

you can always modify the oilpan and leave the flywheel stock with its stock weight.

[hoveringuy]

Hall or VR? The "old" motor had a VR crank sensor. Once I got the MS properly tuned for it I've had no issues whatsoever.

The new motor has the stock Hall sender.

I have the new wiring configured for the Hall sender, but I haven't put any thought into which one would be better. Any compelling reason to pick one over the other?

[hoveringuy]

Clutch/flywheel:

So when I first converted to the M54 I noticed soon after that the stock clutch was slipping. I installed a Clutchmaster FX-100 PP/disc and at the same time lightened the flywheel by removing the material on the rear of the flywheel down to the ring. The resulting flywheel weighted 15lbs, 6Oz, down around 3lbs from stock.

The engine was definitely a little revier and after a few hundred miles the clutch held just fine, but it was also "grabbier" and the lighter flywheel made it more difficult to drive smoothly without stalling.

Now that my son is starting to drive, I'll be using the same PP/disc, but I wanted to revert back to the original flywheel mass. Unfortunately I forgot about the clearance issue so I'm having .1" taken off the back.

Back of the lightened flywheel and OEM.

I'm curious to see what the additional flywheel inertia does for drivability...

[hoveringuy]

Good work. I'm wondering about your removal process - was the rear of the car resting on the ground (on the tires) or did you have it supported as well? I was thinking of using ramps to get additional height.

What kind of height do you think you needed at the frame rails below the doors in order to get the power unit out on the dolly?

Rear was on the ground. I think it was actually beneficial that way because the increased angle raised the front more, where the clearance was required.

I had two medium-sized jacks and they were at about 18" extension. The clearance under the front lip was maybe 26" at that point.

I liked that everything was smooth and controlled. What I didn't like about the engine lift from-the-top method is how the oil pan hangs up on the subframe and there's more "persuasion".

What I really like about this method is that I can do it with what I have on hand. No arranging to borrow a cherry picker. I did order a chainfall for $40 from Amazon, it's been working great for lifting the engine off the stand and such.