N52 oil pan design for Z4 engine arm based swap
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If you have trouble centering the 'rear section' and lining up 'very rear', try printing out some spacers:


Don't forget these key details!
Here is where I notched the rear-section where the main-pan overlaps it. I did this after the rear-section was tacked it would've been easier if I'd realized it needed it before tacking the rear-section to the flange. I notched it so the wing-top-cap and opposite-side-of-wing pieces could sit flush against the main-pan. The main-pan piece is designed to overlap the rear-section. It took just a tiny bit of grinding the angled edges of the main-pan piece to get it to sit on the rear-section nicely
I forgot the bedplate and hardware to ensure for clearances...Leave a comment:
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The Oil Level Sensor rendered above is the OEM unit on the E30 that mounts top down and will trigger the overhead check panel. It is something Striker01 and I would like to still have functioning after the N52 swap.
The OEM E9x Oil Condition/Leveling Sensor on the other hand, mounts from the bottom: https://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=1533444
Maybe if/when you release a version 3??Leave a comment:
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If you already have a dipstick, is it really worth having the oil quality sensor?? i know that for quantity it only reads the very last quart of oil so I guess it would need to be precisely positioned for that to work right, otherwise it'll just tell you when the oil is dirty.Leave a comment:
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I was able to model out the Oil Level Sensor and M20 Dipstick end (waiting for M50 set) and drop them into the assembly with an approximate volume of 5.5 quarts of fluid.
Dipstick reference marks are about 1 inch apart and goes from 5.5 quarts in the middle image to 3.2 quarts for the bottom image.
I will need to make some more cutouts for the Baffle Top and Wing Cap to accommodate the Oil Level Sensor and Dipstick.
I can confirm the Oil Level Sensor has a simple floating ground that switches between FULL and LOW. It appears to only make the LOW connection at the very bottom of the sensor, anything above that it will read as FULL. Further tests to be conducted soon. May also need to consider raising the Oil Level Sensor so that the LOW signal triggers earlier as a warning, rather than reach dangerously low.
Last edited by projectJTv4; 04-22-2024, 10:56 AM.Leave a comment:
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TIG. This probably isn't the best learning project if you've never welded. I'm an Ok Tig welder but I had a lot of mine done by a local guy in his garage that was an ACTUAL welder, he didn't charge a ton, knew where and when to weld to minimize warping and didn't risk burn through, leaks and all that.
Search your Craigslist for someone that does welding on the side so you can learn as they're doing.
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Thank you! I am looking forward to making progress on this.
Embarrassing question of the day: as someone who knows very little about welding, would it be okay to MIG or is TIG preferable for the oil pan and pick up? And for wire or stick material to use??...Leave a comment:
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Yes, Thanks for that idea! I shipped it off to projectJTv4 today. He'll pass it on to the next guy who needs it when he's done.Leave a comment:
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I ordered and looked at a lot of pickups and learned quite a bit about the science behind them, including stuff like you want one that won't block flow if the pan is pushed up, there are different filtering philosophies and such
Some of the JDM ones are great but I thought the Jetta one is simple and a good, compact design.
I didn't use ANY of the tubing but the very bottom.
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That would make sense, I didn't think that much into it.
Sweet, thanks! I will definitely pay it forward to the next guy.
For the Oil Level Sensor, it looks like the ground wiring is switching back and forth.
Let me see if I can pull my Oil Level Sensor out this weekend. I would just need to check for continuity as the sensor is raised and lowered into a container of oil and mark when the sensor goes on/off.
Next, with 5.5 quarts of oil in the pan, hopefully this triggers the FULL connection. Slowly remove oil until LOW connection is made and determine if that amount removed is reasonable.
That part you listed from ECS is the one that I used. I still had to trim the baffle top a little to get the pan on.
Here is what I meant for the dipstick bung.
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https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-volkswagen-audi-parts/oil-pickup-tube/06a115251/?gad_source=4&gclid=Cj0KCQjwiYOxBhC5ARIsAIvdH52ZPL-xEwI77_XxxCzAs4v2lgBzop_d3We4hPpxcVaGhZ1iqWuaDZcaA qrEEALw_wcB
I may have missed it, but is this the right one for the current V2 oil pan?Leave a comment:
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Sweet, thanks! I will definitely pay it forward to the next guy.
Send me your address, I have extras. Just go slow when you weld it; I warped the first one pretty bad and had to start over. I also don't know if the sender will actually display the level correctly because the the engine isn't in the car yet; so no promises on that.
I can also send you the bedplate I used for a welding jig as long as you promise to send it on to the next guy that needs it and not try to make a few bucks on it when your done.
Back to your dipstick. I think if I'd put mine fully on the wing piece instead of half on that seam it would've cleared the bracket without an issue.
For the Oil Level Sensor, it looks like the ground wiring is switching back and forth.
Let me see if I can pull my Oil Level Sensor out this weekend. I would just need to check for continuity as the sensor is raised and lowered into a container of oil and mark when the sensor goes on/off.
Next, with 5.5 quarts of oil in the pan, hopefully this triggers the FULL connection. Slowly remove oil until LOW connection is made and determine if that amount removed is reasonable.
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I couldn't visualize the problem because I don't have the parts yet. So hopefully, these images help explain why the run is so short for the oil pick up.
Note: the Baffle Top has been updated; moved towards the exhaust side.Last edited by projectJTv4; 04-18-2024, 09:31 AM.Leave a comment:
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Send me your address, I have extras. Just go slow when you weld it; I warped the first one pretty bad and had to start over. I also don't know if the sender will actually display the level correctly because the the engine isn't in the car yet; so no promises on that.
I can also send you the bedplate I used for a welding jig as long as you promise to send it on to the next guy that needs it and not try to make a few bucks on it when your done.
Back to your dipstick. I think if I'd put mine fully on the wing piece instead of half on that seam it would've cleared the bracket without an issue.
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