Hey guys - looking for some advice on fuel system. I'm running the same set up as you Caelanng (although mine will be RHD), so hope you don't mind me adding in here. Have put the attached together. Does this look right or am I barking up the wrong tree? Once I've got the physical diagram sorted I'll move on to how it'll run electrically
My N52B30 + GS6-17BG
Collapse
X
-
That is 100 percent correct.Hey guys - looking for some advice on fuel system. I'm running the same set up as you Caelanng (although mine will be RHD), so hope you don't mind me adding in here. Have put the attached together. Does this look right or am I barking up the wrong tree? Once I've got the physical diagram sorted I'll move on to how it'll run electrically
👍 1Comment
-
Just wanted to point out that your transmission mounts look very distorted here. If this was their final position, they will likely tear pretty quickly.
Comment
-
Nice catch!
I wonder if the condor mounts have the same issue the revshift ones do with this swap. They don't look symmetrical on the website. Check out this thread, post 20.
N52 engine mounting (Z4 arms) - R3VLimited Forums
AKG are hard to get but e46 hydraulic mounts work mounted upside down, just have to remove the locator tab and thin the engine arm 4mm to get enough thread engagement.Comment
-
AFAIK Condor does not (yet) make any N52/4 swap mounts. I just started looking into E30 N52 swaps this weekend, so I don't know very much about them. That just stood out to me.
I did see that there's a fabricator that makes custom N52/4 swap engine arms that are made to use any E30 M20 engine mount.Comment
-
The AKG 24V mounts will drop right into the e30 subframe with Z4 arms, just hard to source lately. E46 hydraulic will also work. Another forum member here is working on a set of poly mounts with bolts for easier install and to move the engine back further.AFAIK Condor does not (yet) make any N52/4 swap mounts. I just started looking into E30 N52 swaps this weekend, so I don't know very much about them. That just stood out to me.
I did see that there's a fabricator that makes custom N52/4 swap engine arms that are made to use any E30 M20 engine mount.Comment
-
Great work Caelan, I need to play catch up if I want my swap done before August. Redline motorsports harness looks pretty nice, I'm curious why they say EWS delete is required on their kit but a married DME/CAS/Key is also required. Hoping to power my DME this week on the bench and try to talk to it through OBDII
Quick note about the pivot fork, I did some homework on this when I did my manual swap. People have seen the brass clutch pivot pins wear a lot faster than the plastic OE ones. I would do factory or steel IMO
👍 2Comment
-
Yep they were OOS pretty much everywhere except condor at the time, so I picked up condor ones.Comment
-
Been having a couple issues with my first start. I have the bimmertuningtools MSV80.1 standalone conversion and was hoping it would just crank right up however that's not the case. I did just flash a tune from 22RPD so I'm going to try again tonight with just the standalone conversion. For example: my fuel pump does work I put 12v directly to it (or thru the fuse box) and it is priming and working, however from the key switch it is not working. Car gets no spark and throttle body doesn't move at all, so something with the ECU isn't allowing it to send power to various things around the car. I did initially pull some codes off the ecu and they were:
CDAD message (requirement wheel torque drive train, BF)
CDA1 message (steering wheel angle, C4)
CD9E message (transmission data 2, 1A2)
CD98 message (torque request DSC, B6)
CD9D message (transmission data, BA)
CDA5 Message (Status DSC, 19E)
CD95 message (operation FGR / ACC, 194)
2DC3 Monitoring terminal 15
CDA0 message (terminal status, 130)
CDB0 message (display transmission data, 1D2)
2E84 Electric coolant pump, communication
CDA9 message (heat flow/load moment air conditioning, 1B5)
2AB4 DME, internal error: RAM checksum
2A31 Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: guidance
2A47 Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: plausibility
2AB4 scared me like crazy I was scared I fried my ECU or something. However, after clearing the codes I was just left with the two DSC codes, but still having issues. Gotta diagnose more tonight and tomorrow night hopefully it's not too crazy of an issue. Anyone have any insights? Also does anyone know how to do throttle body adaptation?Comment
-
I've seen the water pump code when replacing the water pump on my 535i, never came back. The transmission ones I haven't seen, if you see them again I would check if the vehicle order on that DME is set to automatic trans.
CDAD message (requirement wheel torque drive train, BF)
CDA1 message (steering wheel angle, C4)
CD9E message (transmission data 2, 1A2)
CD98 message (torque request DSC, B6)
CD9D message (transmission data, BA)
CDA5 Message (Status DSC, 19E)
CD95 message (operation FGR / ACC, 194)
2DC3 Monitoring terminal 15
CDA0 message (terminal status, 130)
CDB0 message (display transmission data, 1D2)
2E84 Electric coolant pump, communication
CDA9 message (heat flow/load moment air conditioning, 1B5)
2AB4 DME, internal error: RAM checksum
2A31 Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: guidance
2A47 Valvetronic, eccentric shaft sensor: plausibility
2AB4 scared me like crazy I was scared I fried my ECU or something. However, after clearing the codes I was just left with the two DSC codes, but still having issues. Gotta diagnose more tonight and tomorrow night hopefully it's not too crazy of an issue. Anyone have any insights? Also does anyone know how to do throttle body adaptation?
Most of these are probably a symptom of the DME being asleep for a long time and powering up confused. I'd bed they stay gone.
For fuel, I would check if you're getting a signal to the relay when cranking. If you aren't the DME isn't sending it or it's not going where it needs to go
.
For throttle body, I wouldn't get hung up on adaptations. It'll idle with no intake manifold. You can try opening the throttle by hand when cranking if you get fuel addressedComment
-
How are you controlling the Fuel pump? Relay or EKP. The good thing about using an EKP is that when it doesn't have CAN signal it just runs full bore with IGN.Been having a couple issues with my first start. I have the bimmertuningtools MSV80.1 standalone conversion and was hoping it would just crank right up however that's not the case. I did just flash a tune from 22RPD so I'm going to try again tonight with just the standalone conversion. For example: my fuel pump does work I put 12v directly to it (or thru the fuse box) and it is priming and working, however from the key switch it is not working. Car gets no spark and throttle body doesn't move at all, so something with the ECU isn't allowing it to send power to various things around the car. I did initially pull some codes off the ecu and they were:
Comment
-
Awesome, makes me feel much better about the codes hahaha
I've seen the water pump code when replacing the water pump on my 535i, never came back. The transmission ones I haven't seen, if you see them again I would check if the vehicle order on that DME is set to automatic trans.
Most of these are probably a symptom of the DME being asleep for a long time and powering up confused. I'd bed they stay gone.
For fuel, I would check if you're getting a signal to the relay when cranking. If you aren't the DME isn't sending it or it's not going where it needs to go
.
For throttle body, I wouldn't get hung up on adaptations. It'll idle with no intake manifold. You can try opening the throttle by hand when cranking if you get fuel addressedComment
-
So just some updates. With starter fluid the car is able to turn over, so it is getting spark. However, when I put my power probe directly to the fuel pump, it's still not turning over. Did a little more digging and found out that the injectors aren't firing either. This leads me to believe that it's an EWS delete issue but I've verified with BTT and 22RPD that they both deleted EWS from my ECU so I'm just completely lost at the moment. Throttle body still doesn't move and when I try to do an adaptation it doesn't work or move. Valvetronic makes a noise when I turn the key though. A lot of the codes disappeared but some came back. Again, just completely lost, don't know where to look or where to continue to next. I feel like I've tried so much but so little at the same time. Been in contact with redline motorsport (who made harness adapter) and they believe that it's the tune but when I ask 22rpd and btt they say it's most likely wiring...
Comment
-
Great work Caelan, I need to play catch up if I want my swap done before August. Redline motorsports harness looks pretty nice, I'm curious why they say EWS delete is required on their kit but a married DME/CAS/Key is also required. Hoping to power my DME this week on the bench and try to talk to it through OBDII
Quick note about the pivot fork, I did some homework on this when I did my manual swap. People have seen the brass clutch pivot pins wear a lot faster than the plastic OE ones. I would do factory or steel IMO
Matching set is the right way of doing it, I just tried to get away with deleting it all, but I think that was the wrong move. I should probably get a matching set and try troubleshooting from there...Comment


Comment