1990 325ix automatic speed question

[Wordman]

Hi, I recently purchased a 1990 325ix with auto transmission. I have had my mechanic do all the usual maintenance of replacing fuel filter, spark plugs, timing belts, air filter and adjusted the valves along with many other little things. The car drives and idles great. My question is it just doesn’t feel like it has a lot of power as far as acceleration goes. I had an Oem exhaust put in and the transmission recently serviced (shifts fine and they found no concerns). Today, I took it out on a back road and timed my 0-60 speed at it was approx 15 seconds. Doing a google search I read that it should be around 9.3 seconds. Is there anything I should look for or replace to see if I can get more pep in the car. I know many don’t like the automatic transmission but are they normally this slow? Any help or insights would be greatly appreciated. Thanks

[litu]

I would your gearbox is just old, when i recall my e30ix automatic, it was slow in had about 140 000miles -89 model, so i can think those seal etc, is old/worn down so not that good pressure in there to keep the power, also you tire size effect, if run some 195/65-14 it will accelerate faster

[varg]

Stock E30 lacking power, check

• Throttle cable (are you actually getting WOT?)
• TPS adjustment/function
• Intake elbow for leaks
• Fuel pressure
• Fuel injector condition (send them out for a cleaning)
• Cam timing

If the transmission is shifting like it should, when it should, it's not the transmission. If it was slipping you'd know it. If it's shifting prematurely maybe the kickdown cable is out adjustment.

[Wordman]

Thank you for giving me a couple things to look for. My idle is really good and steady at around 800 rpm. It doesn’t fluctuate at all. I had the throttle cable replaced and that didn’t change anything. I will check to see if I get WOT with it. I have noticed that the last month or so it is taking the car longer to start, maybe 5-6 seconds when turning the key. Could that be the fuel pump? I don’t notice any surging when I drive or sounds from it so I had ruled that out. I am new at mechanic things regarding cars but from what I read I thought if I had any vacuum leaks I would see that in my idle gauge. Would my idle needle bounce around if I had one? I will also look into having my fuel injectors replaced. The car has 265,000 miles on it and the previous owner was very meticulous with his care and maintenance of the car. Should I get the standard Bosch fuel injectors I see on FCP Euro? If they were dirty would I notice that in my idle or starting the car? Thanks again for all your help.

[82eye]

I have noticed that the last month or so it is taking the car longer to start, maybe 5-6 seconds when turning the key. Could that be the fuel pump?

5 - 6 seconds doesn't strike me as all that bad depending on temperature. there are a few things that can cause a hard cold start, but i would start with varg 's check list before venturing there.

I thought if I had any vacuum leaks I would see that in my idle gauge. Would my idle needle bounce around if I had one?

you'd get an idle surge as the ecu tries to adapt if the leaks were bad enough. you'd see it on your tach. smaller ones wouldn't affect it as much and can be present without the surges, while still causing problems. the best thing to do is inspect and/or replace the common vacuum leak suspects like the intake elbow. again, like varg is suggesting.

I will also look into having my fuel injectors replaced. The car has 265,000 miles on it and the previous owner was very meticulous with his care and maintenance of the car. Should I get the standard Bosch fuel injectors I see on FCP Euro? If they were dirty would I notice that in my idle or starting the car?

with that mileage it'll be time for it, it doesn't mean the originals will be garbage at all though. properly serviced injectors are good as brand new.
look into getting them serviced through a reputable injector shop first. the things are expensive, even used, and are generally a lot cheaper to service than buy. you will probably notice a better idle and running response, even if the rest of the car is in good knick.

as far a buying new, there are a few choices if you have to. sticking with an original type replacement is the best and easiest for any stock car. the original injectors are single pintle capped injectors, there are newer 4-pintle open injectors that can work, but there isn't anything to be gained using them on a stock car and chip, especially with an auto trans.

[Wordman]

Thank you very much for getting back to me with these ideas and suggestions. I plan on checking for the vacuum leaks next week and will plan on replacing the fuel injectors with new ones and send my old ones off to get cleaned as a back up. I’ll go over the check list as well. Thanks again for your time in responding to my questions and concerns.

[packratbimmer]

I would have a compression check done if you do not find anything else wrong. If your valves are slightly leaking, power will slowly diminish. Certainly get the injectors cleaned and stay with the stock ones unless you plan to get a tune/chip matched to your non-stock injector choice.