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Axle boots tore prematurely? I replaced both inner/outer boots last summer

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    #16
    Empi and GKN is the way to go. We have been running the endurance car (original 158k miles car) since 2014. Four to five 14-24hr races per year. They started showing cracks in the bellows two races ago, but neglected them until tonight. We will be servicing them with GKN kits for the race in 2 weeks. Can report the findings, but based on experience, they will last a few years to come.

    More importantly than the boot type/composition, be sure to completely remove all of the old grease when re-booting axles. Some grease compositions don't jive with each other and can actually cause friction surfaces - and of course, make sure the boots aren't rubbing on anything in the full swing of the axles. Many f the lesser brands have exceptionally large bellows that may rub the shock during trailing arm swing.
    john@m20guru.com
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      #17
      Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
      Empi and GKN is the way to go. We have been running the endurance car (original 158k miles car) since 2014. Four to five 14-24hr races per year. They started showing cracks in the bellows two races ago, but neglected them until tonight. We will be servicing them with GKN kits for the race in 2 weeks. Can report the findings, but based on experience, they will last a few years to come.

      More importantly than the boot type/composition, be sure to completely remove all of the old grease when re-booting axles. Some grease compositions don't jive with each other and can actually cause friction surfaces - and of course, make sure the boots aren't rubbing on anything in the full swing of the axles. Many f the lesser brands have exceptionally large bellows that may rub the shock during trailing arm swing.
      Any thought on the best Way to remove all the old grease? Is brake clean a good option?
      89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
      1994 Mazda Miata

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        #18
        I strip the boots and use a couple gallons of fuel. Since we have cars come in the shop that sit for extended periods, there's always fouled gas to use up. Brake clean would be far more expensive than even purchasing a couple gallons for the job. When finished you can just let it evaporate and the grease will be left in the bottom of the bucket.
        john@m20guru.com
        Links:
        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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          #19
          Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
          I strip the boots and use a couple gallons of fuel. Since we have cars come in the shop that sit for extended periods, there's always fouled gas to use up. Brake clean would be far more expensive than even purchasing a couple gallons for the job. When finished you can just let it evaporate and the grease will be left in the bottom of the bucket.
          So just soak the ends and then scrub kind of thing? Is there a DIY write-up on the iX anywhere out there? I've seen a couple non-BMW vids on YouTube, but...

          I've also heard mineral oil works well, but guessing that's pricey too.
          1985 E30 S52 - Daily Driver
          1986 M635Csi - For the best days

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            #20
            I am doing my set today or tomorrow, might just do a write up.

            john@m20guru.com
            Links:
            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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              #21
              Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
              Empi and GKN is the way to go.
              Best source for them? I probably need front outer boots.
              1985 E30 S52 - Daily Driver
              1986 M635Csi - For the best days

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                #22
                Ah, I remember these days! I could have an ix axle out and rebooted in an hour...

                Maybe it was the tight auto X curcuits, I used to tear thru them all the time..

                I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                @Zakspeed_US

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                  #23
                  Originally posted by iXBeater View Post

                  Anything unusual about the boot-process on the iX?

                  I'm hoping it isn't much different than this: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-S-ofMoWsr0&t=114s

                  If there's an iX-specific DIY out there, I'd appreciate a link :)
                  The only thing that’s meaningfully different with the iX is that you have to disconnect a tie rod to get the half shaft out. Otherwise, they are pretty standard.
                  2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
                  2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
                  1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
                  1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
                  - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
                  1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
                  1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

                  Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
                  Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

                  sigpic

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                    #24
                    Also, get used to doing this job. My experience with our old iX was that we never went more than a couple years between losing a boot. And that’s maybe 35,000 miles over a decade.
                    2006 GMC Sierra 2500HD 4WD LBZ/Allison
                    2002 BMW M3 Alpinweiß/Black
                    1999 323i GTS2 Alpinweiß
                    1995 M3 Dakargelb/Black
                    - S50B32/S6S420G/3.91
                    1990 325is Brilliantrot/Tan
                    1989 M3 Alpinweiß/Black

                    Hers: 1996 Porsche 911 Turbo Black/Black
                    Hers: 1988 325iX Coupe Diamantschwartz/Black 5spd

                    sigpic

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                      #25
                      I wouldn't expect that at stock ride height. Always wanted to come up with some sort of heat shield for that passenger axle. The passenger inner boot seems to only last about 20,000 miles, but my car is also really low (for an ix).
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

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                        #26
                        Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                        I am doing my set today or tomorrow, might just do a write up.
                        That would be awesome - even a few pix of the clean-up and the basic procedure would be great.
                        1985 E30 S52 - Daily Driver
                        1986 M635Csi - For the best days

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                          #27
                          ForcedFirebird (and any others with a perspective) - My buddy is waving me off replacing the boots, concerned that I might screw it up and wind up with expensive axles to replace. I've replaced (but not rebuilt) axles on my wife's van, done struts and shocks on that and my old M635, etc. I'm good for nuts and bolts stuff, and have good tools, a QuickJack, etc., but I definitely don't want to screw up by trying to fix up. The boots are torn, but there's no noise or other damage I can see.

                          Thoughts/brutal honesty?
                          1985 E30 S52 - Daily Driver
                          1986 M635Csi - For the best days

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                            #28
                            Great time to clean all old grease out, it’s just a really really messy job. They can get bound up when clean without grease on re assembly. Just be mind full of which way you take apart the cage and which direction the taper goes inside the cage.

                            A car wash with hot water maybe a good way to get the outer joints cleaned out.

                            Its been 5+ years since of done them, I think I kept the outler assembled without boots and pulled the Cclip off the inners.

                            Maybe vice verse.

                            I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                            @Zakspeed_US

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                              #29
                              Replace the boots! The CV joints are not special, and any monkey in a driveline shop can do it. But letting the grease out and dirt in, they're going to be shot anyway.
                              Build thread

                              Bimmerlabs

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                                #30
                                Originally posted by iXBeater View Post
                                ForcedFirebird (and any others with a perspective) - My buddy is waving me off replacing the boots, concerned that I might screw it up and wind up with expensive axles to replace. I've replaced (but not rebuilt) axles on my wife's van, done struts and shocks on that and my old M635, etc. I'm good for nuts and bolts stuff, and have good tools, a QuickJack, etc., but I definitely don't want to screw up by trying to fix up. The boots are torn, but there's no noise or other damage I can see.

                                Thoughts/brutal honesty?
                                I’m doing this job now and as long as the car has not been neglected and isn’t rusty everything should come apart easily enough. If the axle is stuck in the hub or front diff you can get into trouble. The circlip can be tricky but other than that it’s a straightforward job that will need to be done multiple times over the life of any ix. I say go for it! If you screw something up you can always find a used ix axle on this forum.
                                89 325ix coupe Diamondschwartz
                                1994 Mazda Miata

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