New set has arrived! Front shaft uppgrade *Finland-Fix*

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    Originally posted by nando
    99% sure they are the same
    Ok thanks!

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  • nando
    replied
    99% sure they are the same

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  • Nisse Järnet
    replied
    Do you know if the 525ix transfer case have the same splines? I can check but not for a month or two.

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  • jute91
    replied
    Originally posted by aberg83
    Still for sale?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2
    yes i still got them for sale

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  • nando
    replied
    Originally posted by Northern
    :D

    I don't see what would stop this from being used in a u-jointed setup, but isn't that a lot of work compared to grafting the AWD specific bits of the ix pan onto a 24v pan?
    the E30 ix oil pan bits leave you with a weak front diff and your engine will be rotated 10* too far upright.

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  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by Northern
    :D

    I don't see what would stop this from being used in a u-jointed setup, but isn't that a lot of work compared to grafting the AWD specific bits of the ix pan onto a 24v pan?
    1. I wouldn't have thought so.

    2. My setup will be 32V

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  • imwhyteyo
    replied
    pm sent for one.

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  • Northern
    replied
    :D

    I don't see what would stop this from being used in a u-jointed setup, but isn't that a lot of work compared to grafting the AWD specific bits of the ix pan onto a 24v pan?

    Leave a comment:


  • imwhyteyo
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will
    Thanks.
    I'm looking at a 24V swap using the E53 X5 oil pan and front diff. That setup moves the diff some amount (3-4" at a guess) to the left relative to the E30 oil pan. I'll need to build a u-jointed driveshaft, which means I'll need a fixed output flange at the T-case.
    my mistake, for whatever reason i completely misinterpreted your question. guess ill go put on my flame suit.

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  • aberg83
    replied
    Still for sale?


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk 2

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  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by Northern
    Quoting for full retard.

    He obviously wants to weld flanges to the shaft end and the old driveshaft to avoid welding, definitely not because he'd like to be able to remove the driveshaft without dropping the tcase or front diff.

    But yes, he just sells the splined end, not the whole shaft.
    Thanks.
    I'm looking at a 24V swap using the E53 X5 oil pan and front diff. That setup moves the diff some amount (3-4" at a guess) to the left relative to the E30 oil pan. I'll need to build a u-jointed driveshaft, which means I'll need a fixed output flange at the T-case.
    Last edited by The Dark Side of Will; 07-27-2013, 12:52 PM.

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  • Northern
    replied
    Originally posted by imwhyteyo
    You should have read this thread before speaking. the part IS just the "flange" WITHOUT the driveshaft just like your asking. also if your considering using a 12mm bolt to have adapted this to your driveshaft so you can avoid having to weld it.., well.. thats just plain idiotic.. that little thing will snap under the slightest circumstance, or will unthread itself while driving in reverse.. as said.. its best to read things throughly before jumping the gun on your questions.
    Quoting for full retard.

    He obviously wants to weld flanges to the shaft end and the old driveshaft to avoid welding, definitely not because he'd like to be able to remove the driveshaft without dropping the tcase or front diff.

    But yes, he just sells the splined end, not the whole shaft.

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  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    You should have looked up the definition of flange before you responded

    Sent from my SGH-T999 using Tapatalk 2

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  • imwhyteyo
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will
    Nice welding.
    The splines are full depth, right? They go into the sprocket and engage all of the sprocket's splines.

    Can you make a part with just a flange instead of the driveshaft?

    Also, instead of the center being drilled for grease delivery, can you drill and tap for a 12mm bolt from the end?

    Would you be willing to sell me just the part you made, without a driveshaft?
    You should have read this thread before speaking. the part IS just the "flange" WITHOUT the driveshaft just like your asking. also if your considering using a 12mm bolt to have adapted this to your driveshaft so you can avoid having to weld it.., well.. thats just plain idiotic.. that little thing will snap under the slightest circumstance, or will unthread itself while driving in reverse.. as said.. its best to read things throughly before jumping the gun on your questions.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Nice welding.
    The splines are full depth, right? They go into the sprocket and engage all of the sprocket's splines.

    Can you make a part with just a flange instead of the driveshaft?

    Also, instead of the center being drilled for grease delivery, can you drill and tap for a 12mm bolt from the end?

    Would you be willing to sell me just the part you made, without a driveshaft?

    Leave a comment:

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