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    You're right. I just remembered he used the original ix transfercase in that build. Bummer.
    Build thread

    Bimmerlabs

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      Originally posted by nando View Post
      You're right. I just remembered he used the original ix transfercase in that build. Bummer.
      For now......

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      Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

      IX being restored here

      Ix turbo build here

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        Yeah, did you get a new planetary in that thing or what? ;)


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          Originally posted by Eskie View Post
          Yeah, did you get a new planetary in that thing or what? ;)


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          Lol yep it's all fixed, I need to work on getting some videos of a few pulls

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          Your signature picture has been removed since it contained the Photobucket "upgrade your account" image.

          IX being restored here

          Ix turbo build here

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            Originally posted by Eskie View Post
            That would be really sweet. I'd probably experiment with and arduino to see what I could get going but before that I'd probably just have an on/off switch--unlocked/full lock.
            It has to be an ardruino or similar because the clutch is controlled by a stepper motor. Even with just a "lock/unlock" switch, there would need to be some logic to step the motor in until it stopped, then stop trying to drive it... then step the motor back out until it was at the other end of its travel.

            Nisse, I think, noted some type of European controller. I asked about its capabilities, and he said it was limited to "Locked" and "Unlocked".

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              Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
              (which means input & front/rear output speed sensors, chassis G-meter, maybe some reading of engine torque)
              Duh moment: input and rear output speed will always be the same. This could be substituted using the VSS from the rear diff with zero additional hardware in the car. One could probably use a sensor to read the teeth on the front output sprocket to get front output speed. But after that it would still need steering angle, chassis G's and probably something to do with engine load/torque output.

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                Could you use one of the front wheel speed sensors for front input?

                As far as getting it to lock and unlock I could probably figure out how to drive it. Iíve driven stepper motors with an arduino before. I have a torn down ATC transfer case that I should start messing with. I could try to build a driver and mess with it on the bench.


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                  In a corner... maybe? Could average the left and right front wheel speeds and multiply by the diff ratio to get the front driveshaft speed.

                  Driving the stepper motor wouldn't be a big problem... just have to have a quad driver that can handle enough current.

                  My project is to drop an S62 into an E30 iX. The car will end up front heavy. I intend to use a Quaife front diff and open rear to get the car to turn. Applying enough torque to the front driveshaft to make that Quaife useful will be very important.

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
                    In a corner... maybe? Could average the left and right front wheel speeds and multiply by the diff ratio to get the front driveshaft speed.

                    Driving the stepper motor wouldn't be a big problem... just have to have a quad driver that can handle enough current.

                    My project is to drop an S62 into an E30 iX. The car will end up front heavy. I intend to use a Quaife front diff and open rear to get the car to turn. Applying enough torque to the front driveshaft to make that Quaife useful will be very important.


                    Which front diff housing are you planning on running? When you say quaife, your taking about a limited slip unit? With a LSD in the front you could get a pretty good wheel speed reading from one corner. I say this because with a LSD both front axles should be turning relatively the same speed, right? I guess other options would be to run a speed sensor off the front driveshaft probably.

                    Regardless an S62 awd e30 is going to be crazy. The heavy ass E39 that the engine is in is already nuts.


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                      The Quaife for a Z3 1.9 bolts into the E53 front diff.

                      A Quaife doesn't necessarily make them both turn the same speed... it just keeps the inside from lighting up.

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                        Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will View Post
                        The Quaife for a Z3 1.9 bolts into the E53 front diff.

                        A Quaife doesn't necessarily make them both turn the same speed... it just keeps the inside from lighting up.
                        Ahh I see. I just re-read where you mentioned reading it off the front sprocket. I bet it wouldn't be that hard to drill a hole and weld a bung for one of those threaded hall effect sensors. I guess you could put it on either the transfer case or front diff. You wouldn't need a missing tooth to read speed right?

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                          Right... just need to know how many teeth per revolution.

                          GM actually did exactly that when they started using the F40 six speed manual from the Saab 9-3 in the Pontiac G6. The Saab used Bosch electronics and ECU got vehicle speed from the ABS/SC over the bus. The GM system in the Pontiac still needed a hardware VSS, so they just installed a reluctive sensor that read the final drive gear teeth directly.

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                            Hacking through the ins and outs of using the ATC-700 or similar T-Case: http://www.corner-carvers.com/forums...ad.php?t=50342

                            The actuator is actually not a stepper motor. It's a DC motor with a Hall effect sensor to count revolutions. Many other "on demand" T-Cases use a similar motor arrangement.
                            HOWEVER, only BMW uses a worm gear drive that can not be back-driven by the load from the clutch mechanism.

                            In most applications, the controller PWMs the motor in order to control motor torque and thus clamp load. As the duty cycle goes up, the motor torque--and thus clamp load on the clutch--goes up. When duty cycle goes down, the motor torque goes down and the clutch relaxes, transferring less torque to the front driveshaft.
                            In a BMW, instead of just reducing PW and allowing the mechanism to the relax, because of the worm gear drive, the controller has to actively drive the motor the opposite direction in order to reduce front driveshaft torque.

                            That means that the center diff controllers on the market which output a PWM signal will not work with the BMW ATC series T-Cases.
                            Such aftermarket controllers could work with the E34 T-Case, however.

                            Example controller: https://www.full-race.com/store/niss...kyline-gt-r-1/

                            I may have to buy an ATC-700 to try it out, but a PWM-style motor may be adaptable to the ATC-700. There are T-Cases on the market that work pretty much EXACTLY the same as the ATC-700, but use a conventional PWM motor instead of BMW's weird setup.



                            Comment


                              Originally posted by nando View Post
                              You're right. I just remembered he used the original ix transfercase in that build. Bummer.
                              mw044 has ATC700 T-case and if I'm not mistaken, an Arduino-based controller for that..



                              I did M50 swap in my '86 iX this year with all-E34 stuff. So far haven't had control for center lock but I've designed and built my own Arduino-based controller for it. It gathers ABS sensor signals and will communicate with ECU. I've measured the center diff lock breaking torque is more than 200 Nm at under pwm 50 % duty so it's quite capable. What I'm unsure of is the how will the lock wear if used on the limit instead of fully driving it on/off. Ideally I'd like to allow just a bit of rear wheel slip and hold it there, but the safe way for sure would be to set a threshold after which the lock is ramped fully on and held there until TPS goes down and then ramp it down to 0 %.

                              I wanted to have permanent awd and just control the lock but if I would do this now, I'd really consider x-drive tc again.. The total driveline ratio is short (by starting point was 3.64 / G260) and 6-speed manual would make the already long package even longer.

                              The car is still very much in progress and not nearly finished, but this thread needs a picture once in a while so here it goes:

                              Click image for larger version  Name:	1905_johtosarjan_sukitusta.jpg Views:	0 Size:	77.1 KB ID:	9874396

                              No, it won't stay n/a but the plenum is also there to clear brake reservoir. I swapped E34 525iX booster/mc as well, and it's tight with stock manifold/tb even though I moved the booster ~2cm away from the engine.

                              This thread and especially Nisse helped the swap a lot :)
                              1986 325iX
                              2006 530xd

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                                How'd you fit the oil sump and diff? Frankenpan?

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