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    Ground control & strut housing modifications

    Can anyone give me an idea of how much needs to sectioned out of the strut housing. I'm running koni sports and just spent a fortune on a new strut housings since mine were rusted through essentially. I only have one shot at this and want to give my fabricator as much info as possible. Also any measurements that pertain to the new location of the sway bar mounts would be greatly appreciated
    Last edited by dirtyEthirtyIX; 03-26-2018, 05:25 PM.

    #2
    I hope you didnt throw away your old struts. You can cut the rusted tubes off, buy rwd struts and cut the tubes off, then weld on the rwd tubes onto your ix struts. It probably would have been half the price of a good set of struts.

    How much you section out depends on what shock you're running. Put the shock in the tube, measure it, and go from there. If you're running the ix koni sport then you don't need to shorten it at all.
    AWD > RWD

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      #3
      No I saved them. So I can just have the perches and sway bar welded on and at the stock height and I'm good to go? Awesome! At least I have a set to fall back on now in case something happens.

      Comment


        #4
        IMO I would not section your new housings. Those things are so expensive and it'll kill the value. I want to say I shortened my housings 2.1" but I'm not certain on that. I was using the race insert. Grab some rwd housings and hack the sleeves off and have your fabricator weld those onto your knuckles at the desired height. And yes I'm pretty sure you can just use the "M3 style swaybar mounts" that garagsitic sells so it's less cutting. They're slightly different but I'm pretty sure they'll work one in the same.

        If you're using regular iX Konis you don't have to section anything and can just hack the perch off and weld the new GC speech/ring on.

        Edit:

        The Konis I used are 2.1" shorter than standard iX struts, so that is the length you'd need to shorten your housings.

        P/N: 8610-1436race

        Also, when ordering these struts you need to order special Koni gland nuts with them too, as they don't come with them since they're not actually iX struts.

        P/N for gland nuts:

        73.25.01.003.1 (M48 x 1.50)
        Last edited by AWDBOB; 03-28-2018, 01:42 PM.
        1989 Hooptie 325iS Build Thread
        1989 Zinnoberrot M3 Build Thread

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          #5
          yeah, keep the new housings - use the rusty ones to build your new struts.

          My original housings were mint, and I regret cutting them up. My second set used the rusty housings from my parts car, definitely the way to go.
          Build thread

          Bimmerlabs

          Comment


            #6
            Couldn't I buy some chromoly tube and have one end threaded to 48x1.50?

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              #7
              Originally posted by dirtyEthirtyIX View Post
              Couldn't I buy some chromoly tube and have one end threaded to 48x1.50?
              Doesn't even need to be chomoly. I have repaired many strut tubes and just use 2"x1.20" wall tubing. The tap I bought (48mm x 1.50) was about three hundred bucks, not exactly a one time use item, though.
              john@m20guru.com
              Links:
              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                #8
                I sourced some strut housings to cut up locally!

                Comment


                  #9
                  Originally posted by AWDBOB View Post
                  IMO I would not section your new housings. Those things are so expensive and it'll kill the value. I want to say I shortened my housings 2.1" but I'm not certain on that. I was using the race insert. Grab some rwd housings and hack the sleeves off and have your fabricator weld those onto your knuckles at the desired height. And yes I'm pretty sure you can just use the "M3 style swaybar mounts" that garagsitic sells so it's less cutting. They're slightly different but I'm pretty sure they'll work one in the same.

                  If you're using regular iX Konis you don't have to section anything and can just hack the perch off and weld the new GC speech/ring on.

                  Edit:

                  The Konis I used are 2.1" shorter than standard iX struts, so that is the length you'd need to shorten your housings.

                  P/N: 8610-1436race

                  Also, when ordering these struts you need to order special Koni gland nuts with them too, as they don't come with them since they're not actually iX struts.

                  P/N for gland nuts:

                  73.25.01.003.1 (M48 x 1.50)
                  What rear struts did you use?

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Originally posted by dirtyEthirtyIX View Post
                    What rear struts did you use?
                    This is what I got from ground control, Koni SA's. Just in case they cross reference or whatever.

                    8641-1547SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Strut Insert, Top Adjust
                    8041-1289SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Rear Shock, Top Adjust
                    Build Thread
                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=419655
                    Parts Thread
                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=408302

                    Comment


                      #11
                      Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View Post
                      Doesn't even need to be chomoly. I have repaired many strut tubes and just use 2"x1.20" wall tubing. The tap I bought (48mm x 1.50) was about three hundred bucks, not exactly a one time use item, though.
                      What do you charge for a service like that? I found a tap for 80$ but figured I'd need 2 just get one strut threaded. I also have some question about my 2.8l build as far as the crank bolt and washer are concerned, I already have a crank spacer you made. But a recent post on r3v fb mention the washer needing to be shaved down to 1.25mm

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by Chrisbike View Post
                        This is what I got from ground control, Koni SA's. Just in case they cross reference or whatever.

                        8641-1547SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Strut Insert, Top Adjust
                        8041-1289SPGC Ground Control Custom Valved Koni Rear Shock, Top Adjust
                        Since I'm not going super low I should be fine with the sports right?

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by dirtyEthirtyIX View Post
                          Since I'm not going super low I should be fine with the sports right?
                          If your talking rear yeah most likely. I'm not certain but I think the rears are the same between sport and race besides valving
                          Build Thread
                          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=419655
                          Parts Thread
                          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...d.php?t=408302

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Sports on all for corners.

                            Comment


                              #15
                              there's no travel up front unless you shorten the housings. I mean, you basically can't really lower the car at all and have acceptable ride quality. I don't think the race inserts even cost all that much more.
                              Build thread

                              Bimmerlabs

                              Comment

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