I'll get you some info when I get home. Ground is the same.
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My Favorite $30 Mod so far...(keyless entry)
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Couldn't just sit and wait for the manual, mate, and bought a keyless entry system different from yours (as i'm not in the US). It's a shame for me, majoring engineering, to just sit and wait for instruction for a couple of wires! Without a multimeter and shit i ran the wires like the diagram in the keyless unit box and... nothing! :D And that's where i began to connect different wires and try all possible combinations and i finished with the combination of wires, cut the 3 extra wires and insulated them, ran a longer wire for the antenna and assembled all together. Now i have a beautifully working keyless entry system on my car!
Guys, say NO to the broken key locks etc. ! Save yourself the pain in the ass to lock from passengers door etc.
Didn't took photos of the install, but it's like the sedan/coupes (according to the manual in the topic) I just got an extra ground wire (2 ground wires total). Got the const. 12V from the trunk dome light. Found a place for the control unit near the rear window washer tank, it sits there tight.
Here is a little video i made:
Thank you guys for the topic, opened my mind wide for the solution of the stupid broken key locks and saved me from the embarassement to lock my drivers door from the rear drivers door!
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The picture shows the colour of the cable with the constant power (red/green). The rest of the are the same as the coupes or sedans.
https://skydrive.live.com/redir?resi...CjEOSWIcNDLExY
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A little show off for the turn signals blinking when lock/unlock and i was bored of my stupid remote control so i wrapped them both in carbon fiber vinyl. Now very pleased with my work but thats the best to archieve with not very sharp exacto knife.
Oh shit youtube destroyed my video with their stupid upgrades of quality, sorry for that.
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Love your E30 318is webpage! Same car here..... given me lots of good pictures and project to do!!!!
Originally posted by LikeCDoos View PostI got a $30 keyless entry system off e-bay and installed it. It works great so far and is a wonderful feature to have.
Car Wire -- Keyless Wire -- Function
Brown -- Black -- Ground
Red -- Red -- 12V
Green/Black -- Green -- Lock
Green/Purple -- Blue -- Unlock
Here are some pictures of my install:
Pull Back the trunk liner on the driver's side and expose these wires:
Splice into the Lock/Unlock wires and connect the constant 12V and ground wires:
Here is the unit stuck to the side of my car with velcrow:
Size of remote:
After re-installing trunk liner:
Other random pictures during installation:
My friend Jeff (JHinck1414) has the 318is and also did this install
Let me know if you have any questions about the install. This write up helped out alot, but i just mounted mine in a different place:
Here is the unit i got off e-bay:
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...715184488&rd=1
My E30 332iS Build Photo Album :) Click below!!!!!!!!!!
http://s637.photobucket.com/user/mil...2%20SWAP/story
If you have bought or sold parts from me please visit my Transaction Feedback Thread!!
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...10#post3791810
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Originally posted by spitfirebg View PostA little show off for the turn signals blinking when lock/unlock and i was bored of my stupid remote control so i wrapped them both in carbon fiber vinyl. Now very pleased with my work but thats the best to archieve with not very sharp exacto knife.
Oh shit youtube destroyed my video with their stupid upgrades of quality, sorry for that.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=xtzZAV7DKdk
Wire info for the blinkers?
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Finally got the motivation to install that Octopus unit I picked up long ago. Wanted to get it installed before the snow and ice hit..
One of my objectives was to see how simple and stripped-down I could install it (just after keyless lock/unlock feature). I removed the trunk actuator since I wasn't interested in it being incorporated/used. This meant I could simply and neatly plug wires directly into the trunk lock actuator connection plug.
The Octopus wiring was weird and confusing to me. At first, I powered up the unit, then proceeded to try different wires to the lock/unlock plug wires with no luck.
Then I followed this diagram provided in instructions:
So basically – for the Octopus unit:
Car - - - - Octopus
Red(battery terminal) – Red + Pink + Orange
Brown(trunk actuator connection plug) – Black + [a second] Black + White
Green/Black (connection plug) – Green
Green/Purple (connection plug) – Purple
Mounting location between rear battery and trunk actuator connection. Unused wires on Octopus were cut.
So far, so good. Really nice to have.. Only pisser now is that the flip key blanks are wrong. Will be looking into swapping correct blanks to the provided key fobs if I can find a vendor for them..
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Day 3: remote fails to unlock. Locking feature still operative.
Can still hear audible relay clicking from unit when either button is pressed - but remote will not unlock the car..
ug.Last edited by Simon S; 11-08-2012, 06:05 PM.
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Originally posted by Simon S View PostDay 3: remote fails to unlock. Locking feature still operative.
Can still hear audible relay clicking from unit when either button is pressed - but remote will unlock the car..
ug.
My E30 332iS Build Photo Album :) Click below!!!!!!!!!!
http://s637.photobucket.com/user/mil...2%20SWAP/story
If you have bought or sold parts from me please visit my Transaction Feedback Thread!!
http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...10#post3791810
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Originally posted by millsamus View PostTry changing the position of the trunk lock. Mine has to be in the horizontal way for the lock and unlock to work. It's a mystery to me why it works that way
for second, my trunk actuator is removed - and lock position should be moot..
I did some further testing, and my issue seems to central-lock-related to my trunk actuator connection plug.
Central locking/unlocking works fine via either door keys.
When I run a jumper wire from ground to lock wire on the trunk actuator connection plug, the car will lock.
When I run a jumper wire from ground to UNlock wire on the trunk actuator connection plug, the system is unresponsive.
It's like the unlock wire to trunk actuator is dead. I'm not sure where I should be looking next(?)
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I have a 91 318is. I'm pretty sure I have central locking but it doesn't work. The drivers side unlocks with the key, the passenger side unlocks with the key, and the trunk unlocks with the key. EACH INDIVIDUALLY, none of them unlock in groups. So, in order to get the keyless system working I must first correct the central locking problem. Right?
My question is; if i follow this write-up
By following this step:
BMW use a logical wiring system where all red wires are constantly live. One of these wires, coded with a black stripe, makes a loop into and out of the driver's door via the A pillar socket. This is known to cause corrosion and general mayhem both within the socket and to other wiring in the area.
The fix is to eliminate the live loop through the door. The modification to the red/black wires will cure 90% of locking faults, and it is not necessary, or desirable, to dismantle the door hinge pillar plugs and sockets to do so. All the work can be done through the speaker hole.
-Remove battery earth lead.
-Remove the driver's side kick panel/speaker cover.(one screw)
-Remove the speaker(three more screws)
-Reach into the hole and pull the hank of harness going to the A pillar socket into view(try not to pull the socket out if possible)
-Locate and cut the red/black wires,saloons have two,cabbies have three.
-Solder and heat-shrink the harness ends together,insulate the ends going to the socket.
-Replace speaker and cover.
-Re-connect battery.
NOW, Will cutting the red/black wires lead to the keyless system not working if I install it. If so how should I go about fixing the central locking system so I can proceed to install a keyless entry system.
Thanks in Advance!
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