Originally posted by B2702
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DIY - E36 window switch retrofit
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threadbump!
Anyone know the peak current a single window motor can draw? I'm not near my car, unfortunately :(
*working on a special project*
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I finished installing some E36 switches today (well actually yesterday, seeing as it's after midnight now).
Pulled a pair of white base switches from the front console and the bezels from the rear doors of an E36 at a yard.
The PDF wiring directions turned out to be useless for me. I went through the whole test light thing got the colors written down, and hooked up one side. It worked once, and then blew the fuse continually after that.
I ended up using BDSax's coloring, which was completely different from what I had gotten using the test light:
Originally posted by BDSax View PostE30 Switch:
Window Up 1 - Black or (Black/Grey)
Positive (+) 3 - Green/Grey
Negitive (-) 4 - Brown
Negitive (-) 5 - Brown
Window Down 8 - Purple
E36 White Base #1:
Negitive (-) 1 - Brown
Window Down 3 - Black/Yellow
Window Up 4 - Blue/Green
Positive (+) 5 - Red/Brown
E36 White Base #2:
Negitive (-) 1 - Brown
Window Down 3 - Purple/Grey
Window Up 4 - Black/Grey
Positive (+) 5 - Red/Brown
Instead of soldering, I used butt splices and a crimper, and then heat-shrunk it.
Everything now works great, and the switches light up too. This thread came in handy (Especially BDSax's post), thanks guys.
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Just got my large white base switches and ordered the flat bezels from the dealer, $1,60 a piece, pretty cheap.
I'll be asking questions if I have problems while installing (and believe me, I'm sure there will be)
Great thread! Thanks guys
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nice can I have the old blue ones so I can used the wires to connect mine the right way.
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e36 blue switch test
ok, so I set my multi meter to Ohms rx10.
put the black lead on the black/yell wire and the red lead to the blue wire. Needle goes all the way to the right. When I hit the down switch, the needle goes to the left.
Then i set the black lead on the blue/green wire, and the red lead on the black wire, needle on MM goes right. I press the up button on the switch and the needle goes left.
Is that the right way to test the switches? Are they good?
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Originally posted by aaron325ix View PostI'm not sure I'm following you here. So to test if the blue e36 switch is bad, take a mulitmeter and "follow the pins"? How do I know if its not sending current when I press up or down? I'm not the best when it comes to electronics.
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Originally posted by BDSax View Postjust use a multimeter and follow thew pin numbers. if you can take any e30, e28 ect...... window switch and plug it in, then the pin layouts are ALL the same.
I'm not sure I'm following you here. So to test if the blue e36 switch is bad, take a mulitmeter and "follow the pins"? How do I know if its not sending current when I press up or down? I'm not the best when it comes to electronics.
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yea but not the harness'...right?
EDIT: oh you mean just buying the "switch(blue) part, not the harness?
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Originally posted by aaron325ix View PostFuck...I'm all corn-fused, I cant figure it out. Although i did take off my white base(e36) switches and wire them to the rears, just as i did the fronts and they worked! I think the blues might just be bad. If anyone has white base e36 switches let me know. Thanks.
AW
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