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DIY - E36 window switch retrofit

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  • franco90
    replied
    Originally posted by B2702 View Post
    where are the pictures?
    what pictures are you talking about

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  • B2702
    replied
    where are the pictures?

    Leave a comment:


  • franco90
    replied
    Originally posted by kronus View Post
    threadbump!

    Anyone know the peak current a single window motor can draw? I'm not near my car, unfortunately :(

    *working on a special project*
    get with GEORGE

    Leave a comment:


  • kronus
    replied
    threadbump!

    Anyone know the peak current a single window motor can draw? I'm not near my car, unfortunately :(

    *working on a special project*

    Leave a comment:


  • LovableSheep
    replied
    I finished installing some E36 switches today (well actually yesterday, seeing as it's after midnight now).

    Pulled a pair of white base switches from the front console and the bezels from the rear doors of an E36 at a yard.

    The PDF wiring directions turned out to be useless for me. I went through the whole test light thing got the colors written down, and hooked up one side. It worked once, and then blew the fuse continually after that.

    I ended up using BDSax's coloring, which was completely different from what I had gotten using the test light:

    Originally posted by BDSax View Post
    E30 Switch:

    Window Up 1 - Black or (Black/Grey)
    Positive (+) 3 - Green/Grey
    Negitive (-) 4 - Brown
    Negitive (-) 5 - Brown
    Window Down 8 - Purple

    E36 White Base #1:

    Negitive (-) 1 - Brown
    Window Down 3 - Black/Yellow
    Window Up 4 - Blue/Green
    Positive (+) 5 - Red/Brown


    E36 White Base #2:

    Negitive (-) 1 - Brown
    Window Down 3 - Purple/Grey
    Window Up 4 - Black/Grey
    Positive (+) 5 - Red/Brown
    Although I pulled both switches from the same car and they were both white-based, one was colored like "White Base #1" and the other was like "White Base #2." Weird that they would be different.

    Instead of soldering, I used butt splices and a crimper, and then heat-shrunk it.

    Everything now works great, and the switches light up too. This thread came in handy (Especially BDSax's post), thanks guys.

    Leave a comment:


  • naika
    replied
    Just got my large white base switches and ordered the flat bezels from the dealer, $1,60 a piece, pretty cheap.
    I'll be asking questions if I have problems while installing (and believe me, I'm sure there will be)
    Great thread! Thanks guys

    Leave a comment:


  • franco90
    replied
    nice can I have the old blue ones so I can used the wires to connect mine the right way.

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  • aaron325ix
    replied
    Done!! I think the blue ones were bad so I cound some white base ones locally. In the pic it looks like they dont match the console, but in reality you cant tell. Also, i stuffed both breakers under the console, as it looks cleaner and i never use them anyway.
    Attached Files

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  • franco90
    replied
    AARON here r mine

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  • aaron325ix
    replied
    e36 blue switch test

    ok, so I set my multi meter to Ohms rx10.
    put the black lead on the black/yell wire and the red lead to the blue wire. Needle goes all the way to the right. When I hit the down switch, the needle goes to the left.

    Then i set the black lead on the blue/green wire, and the red lead on the black wire, needle on MM goes right. I press the up button on the switch and the needle goes left.

    Is that the right way to test the switches? Are they good?

    Leave a comment:


  • BDSax
    replied
    Originally posted by aaron325ix View Post
    I'm not sure I'm following you here. So to test if the blue e36 switch is bad, take a mulitmeter and "follow the pins"? How do I know if its not sending current when I press up or down? I'm not the best when it comes to electronics.
    look at the back of the switch and by each prong there will be a number. just match up the numbers and follow my guide.

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  • aaron325ix
    replied
    Originally posted by BDSax View Post
    just use a multimeter and follow thew pin numbers. if you can take any e30, e28 ect...... window switch and plug it in, then the pin layouts are ALL the same.

    I'm not sure I'm following you here. So to test if the blue e36 switch is bad, take a mulitmeter and "follow the pins"? How do I know if its not sending current when I press up or down? I'm not the best when it comes to electronics.

    Leave a comment:


  • franco90
    replied
    Originally posted by aaron325ix View Post
    yea but not the harness'...right?

    EDIT: oh you mean just buying the "switch(blue) part, not the harness?

    correct they will work thats how my switches are done I hope this helps

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  • aaron325ix
    replied
    yea but not the harness'...right?

    EDIT: oh you mean just buying the "switch(blue) part, not the harness?

    Leave a comment:


  • franco90
    replied
    Originally posted by aaron325ix View Post
    Fuck...I'm all corn-fused, I cant figure it out. Although i did take off my white base(e36) switches and wire them to the rears, just as i did the fronts and they worked! I think the blues might just be bad. If anyone has white base e36 switches let me know. Thanks.
    AW
    it sounds like bad switches . BMA sell them

    Leave a comment:

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