The Detailed E30 R-134a Conversion Thread/DIY
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Awesome, thanks! I'll give that compressor a try. I'm likely going to be using the stock fan setup since I still have that from when the PO removed the A/C system from the car.
How are your temps currently? Are you looking to add the fan because it's not cold enough or is the car overheating? -
Compressor
I got mine from RockAuto.com last year along with a new parallel condenser and receiver/dryer. Great prices! The compressor is a DENSO 4711117 for under $200 with a clutch.
I'm running a single 15" or 16" puller fan in place of the old mechanical fan. I use a Mishomoto fan controller I bought from ECS Tuning that works great. I just discovered the wiring in the front grill for the aux fan for the a/c. The fan must have been removed the the previous owner. I'm looking at a cheap 10" or 12" fan from Advanced Auto Parts to add in front of the condensor as a pusher and wiring it to the factory wiring.
Question: how have you mounted the fan in the front? It's not clear to me how to do that and I don't really want to use those plastic ties to poke through the condensor.Leave a comment:
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Finally converting to R134a after being an R12 believer, but just can't justify that any longer and my R12 black market guy is running out.
Have already replaced exp valve and now ready to replace my Nippondenso 10P15E compressor and rec/drier. Looking for a direct bolt on replacement, and wondering if anyone can recommend a good source. Ebay has Four Seasons brand 57352 that seem to be direct bolt on. Anyone using this one and can speak to quality/reliability? Says it's compatible with R12 and R134a.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/A-C-Compress...5XV4ZL&vxp=mtr
Did you end up using this compressor? I'm getting the parts together to get this done and need a new compressor myself.Leave a comment:
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Very nice! Also I've forgotten how horrible my old logo was :s
I did print the original post to pdf in 2013. Here:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0By3...ew?usp=sharingLeave a comment:
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Aleman - Thanks for downloading the original DIY! I just saved it in my E30 files.
I know there's already a long line ahead of me, but PB can suck my balls.
CoryLeave a comment:
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Yes, PB basically destroyed half of the how-to threads I go to. That sucks, but for this thread, maybe it's time to start a new one on the topic. The community has gained a lot of experience in doing the r134a conversion since the first post was written, and it took me almost a week to read thru all of it.
I'm going to do the conversion on my '90 325is later this summer or next, so if the need is still there, I can start a new thread with the latest info consolidated into on post.
I did print the original post to pdf in 2013. Here:
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The ADPI condenser in the first post is out of stock everywhere I've looked.
Edit: Found this post:
My car was built in 11/87. Per the first post it should already have barrier hose. How accurate is the 09/87 production date for implementing barrier hose? The car is a 325iX.It appears FCP has a Nissens condenser that is parallel flow.
I've ordered one for my AC project this winter - we shall see how it goes!Last edited by The Dark Side of Will; 07-08-2017, 11:04 PM.Leave a comment:
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R12A =/= R12, I was referring to the hydrocarbon based R12A.
Larger molecule means no leaks or changes to seals, and its fully compatible with the oils and components of an R12 system. Just fill and go.
The United States is one of the only places left where hydrocarbons aren't readily sold as a replacement for R-12 systems. Primarily because the EPA has yet to approve it based on insufficient flammability studies.
In most countries in Europe, and Canada, you find it everywhere (local parts store, hardware stores, etc).
Surprisingly because HC's aren't ozone depleting, they do not require EPA reporting and therefore are legal to sell in the US. So it really only makes sense if you plan to refill it yourself.
HC's are flammable and people get spooked when they read things like butane and propane, but remember, all refrigerants (because of the oils) are flammable; and I would challenge anyone to find reports of HC's causing vehicle fires. Those same people are concerned with ~12oz of refrigerant, but are driving around with 55 liters of gasoline :rofl:.
But remember, HC's are non-toxic, and naturally derived, so they burn clean. Do you know what happens when you burn R134a? Hydrofluoric acid, hydrochloric acid, phosgene, carbonyl flouride and carbon monoxide.Leave a comment:
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I'd use another port for the pressure switches or remove it. I suspect that's there to attach a manifold gauge and is not for your switches.Leave a comment:
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Noid and Jeff - I think it's the right part, but have never done this before. I cross-referenced the part number from AutohausAZ and it comes up as the correct E30 part on ECS Tuning and FCP Euro. Here is the page from FCP, showing a picture of the drier I received, with the Schrader valve fitting in question.
Thanks, CoryLeave a comment:
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My thought too
You KNOW the answer to that :)Last edited by jeffnhiscars; 07-06-2017, 05:25 AM.Leave a comment:

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