The Detailed E30 R-134a Conversion Thread/DIY

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  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by chomowitz
    When I picked up the car, the hood would not close, because the High Side R134a Adapter was too tall. The technician took the adapter off so I could close the hood.
    I thought the EPA mandated, in typically short sighted fashion, that the adapters were not to be removable...

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  • pb34
    replied
    Originally posted by pb34
    Great thanks for the quick response!

    Any opinion on buy one of those universal O-Ring kits? Seemed like I could save a ton of money rather than buying BMW Brand stuff.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...MCHPKXUA&psc=1

    Also looks like ECS put together a O-ring Kit:
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...4508390605~kt/


    Hopefully the last question on Parts, looks like expansion valve PN has changed from the 64511466259 listed to 64518391209. So any opinions on Genuine BMW ($123) or Egelhof / rein ($25) or ACM($23) for the expansion valve?
    Last edited by pb34; 08-07-2017, 05:29 PM.

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  • cory58
    replied
    Originally posted by chomowitz
    I have a BMW 1990 325i E30 that has the original R12 AC lines. My system was converted to R134a by a local car AC outfit. When I picked up the car, the hood would not close, because the High Side R134a Adapter was too tall. The technician took the adapter off so I could close the hood. I have been looking for a solution ever since (including visits to BMW Parts Dept.).

    I need a high side adapter fitting that is low profile enough to prevent interference with the hood hinge for the High Side fitting on the line that runs parallel to the left front fender. I purchased a kit recommended by "glucklich21" in item #290 of this thread (link http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-...=r134a+adapter ) ,but I am unable to mount it. I tried both the 3/8" high side adapter and the 7/16" high side adapter. I think the 7/16" is the right size, but it only screwed on by about one thread, before the base of the adapter hit the main line (could go no further).

    If someone knows that I am not installing this properly, please let me know.

    Has anyone else run into this? Have you found an adapter that is "small" enough to thread on such that the valve will work?

    Any and all advice is welcome.

    I keep the high side adapter in the glove box of my 'vert and install it before hooking up the gauges. My Touring came with the high and low adapters reversed, probably due to the hood not closing. That set-up works fine, as long as you already know (and always remember!) which is the low side.


    Coincidentally, I've been trying to replace that high side hose on my Touring with the updated 134a version. Local dealer here said it was on indefinite back order. I needed to order some euro parts from Schmiedmann, so I added the hose to that order, just to see what happens. I will report back when I get the shipping confirmation from Schmiedmann.


    Cory

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  • chomowitz
    replied
    R12 to R134a High Side Adapter

    I have a BMW 1990 325i E30 that has the original R12 AC lines. My system was converted to R134a by a local car AC outfit. When I picked up the car, the hood would not close, because the High Side R134a Adapter was too tall. The technician took the adapter off so I could close the hood. I have been looking for a solution ever since (including visits to BMW Parts Dept.).

    I need a high side adapter fitting that is low profile enough to prevent interference with the hood hinge for the High Side fitting on the line that runs parallel to the left front fender. I purchased a kit recommended by "glucklich21" in item #290 of this thread (link http://www.amazon.com/Interdynamics-...=r134a+adapter ) ,but I am unable to mount it. I tried both the 3/8" high side adapter and the 7/16" high side adapter. I think the 7/16" is the right size, but it only screwed on by about one thread, before the base of the adapter hit the main line (could go no further).

    If someone knows that I am not installing this properly, please let me know.

    Has anyone else run into this? Have you found an adapter that is "small" enough to thread on such that the valve will work?

    Any and all advice is welcome.

    Leave a comment:


  • The Dark Side of Will
    replied
    Originally posted by glucklich21
    You need the airflow on the front of the condenser otherwise I think the performance of the AC system may be marginal in anything, but highway speed. Puller or not.
    My E34 535i needed to be above ~40 mph and 2000 RPM for the A/C to work well. It just took the Germans a while to catch on to the rest of the world's need for good air conditioning.

    Leave a comment:


  • pb34
    replied
    Great thanks for the quick response!

    Any opinion on buy one of those universal O-Ring kits? Seemed like I could save a ton of money rather than buying BMW Brand stuff.
    https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...MCHPKXUA&psc=1

    Also looks like ECS put together a O-ring Kit:
    https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...4508390605~kt/

    Leave a comment:


  • glucklich21
    replied
    Originally posted by pb34
    Can I get a bump on this question, anyone know if one pusher or puller fan would cut it? I just have a m44 puller eFan wired up already, would that cut it for AC and the engine?

    I mean if you're not running a second efan on that S54 i'll take that as a yes too haha.
    I ran the upgraded fan you saw in the post and an M44 fan after I removed my clutch fan. Both were wired on the same circuit and I also installed the lower temp switch with the stock thermostat. My car ran exactly in the middle at all times.

    You need the airflow on the front of the condenser otherwise I think the performance of the AC system may be marginal in anything, but highway speed. Puller or not.

    Leave a comment:


  • pb34
    replied
    Originally posted by hamann318is
    I couldn't find a lot of detail on the forms, but I'm planning on doing this conversion specific to a M42 with a M44 electric fan (just plugged into the OEM aux fan wiring) - do I need to be concerned with adding a pusher fan?

    I've added the lower temp switch and my aux fan is no longer connected, and when I hit the AC button, the electric puller fan comes on, or when it gets to about 3/5ths on the temp gauge, the fan comes on.

    I don't think this will be a problem, but is that some kind of strain on the AC system?
    Can I get a bump on this question, anyone know if one pusher or puller fan would cut it? I just have a m44 puller eFan wired up already, would that cut it for AC and the engine?

    I mean if you're not running a second efan on that S54 i'll take that as a yes too haha.

    Leave a comment:


  • chomowitz
    replied
    Photo Bucket Pictures not Showing

    I have a 1990 BMW E30 325i and I want to follow the glucklich21 Detailed E30 R-134a Conversion procedures. I can read the text, but the Photobucket pictures are not showing. Instead a Photobucket message ... saying "Please Update your Account to Enable 3rd Party Hosting" shows up where the pictures are supposed to be.

    I went to Photobucket and created an account, but it seems to say that you have to upgrade to P500 to get 3rd Part hosting ... ~$400 for one year.

    This request is a little off topic, but it does relate to the usability of this thread.

    If anyone knows how to view the images in the original Thread, please forward the necessary information.

    Thank you in advance for any help ...

    UPDATE ... I just discovered the Aleman message with a link to a google drive copy of the original thread with pictures. I have downloaded it in pdf form so I have a full copy now. Thank you much Aleman!!! Ignore my above request as my problems are solved>
    Last edited by chomowitz; 08-03-2017, 08:15 AM. Reason: Discovered earlier message that had link to complete instructions with pictures.

    Leave a comment:


  • cory58
    replied
    Originally posted by The Dark Side of Will
    Are you sure it's the right dryer?
    Originally posted by jeffnhiscars
    I'd use another port for the pressure switches or remove it. I suspect that's there to attach a manifold gauge and is not for your switches.
    Well, I finally figured this out, and thought I'd post for the next r3ver doing A/C work for the first time.

    To answer Jeff's quote above - the HPS would not fit in the only spare port on the drier.

    I did some more research and figured out the problem: I was trying to use an old style HPS on a drier made for a new style HPS. So, gold star for Dark Side of Will and and Jeff for asking if I was using the wrong drier.

    The old style drier and HPS are for set-ups WITH a low pressure switch, and the new style drier and HPS are for set-ups WITHOUT a low pressure switch.

    Here is a pic of the correct dryer for the old style HPS. The Behr part number is 351200091.



    Drier 351200091 7.15.17 by cory58f5, on Flickr

    I bought this drier from Bav Auto, connected the new HPS and old LPS, installed everything back in the car with new green o-rings, drew a vacuum, let it sit for 30 minutes holding the vacuum, ran the vacuum pump for another 40 minutes, recharged, and ........ cold A/C!

    For anyone interested, here is a picture of the new style HPS.

    new style high pressure switch 7.4.17 by cory58f5, on Flickr

    It attaches to the schrader valve fitting on the new style drier pictured in my original question post a (#384).

    Cory
    Last edited by cory58; 08-03-2017, 12:50 PM.

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  • jonie2nuts
    replied


    Here is a link to ebay you will find every reman compressor that was installed as new equipment. There are Bosch/Behr,Nippon Densoand and Seiko Seiki. I got lucky a friend has a Euro. boneyard and he had a '92-'93 vert with a Seiko-Seiki compressor that says R134a the BMW part # is 64 52 8 391 152,here is a pict. of both tags.

    Leave a comment:


  • micrors4racer
    replied
    Whats the most common type of reman a/c compressor for the M20? I cannot find a seiko unit at all so I'm forced to just use a denso unit and change my lines. But which denso unit?

    Leave a comment:


  • SmokeE30
    replied
    you can just convert the fittings and run r134a in the stock system, its not ideal. refill with r12 and leave it alone is ideal, or if you want to run R134a the right way use all the factory r134a AC pieces from a late model e30 with r134a from the factory.

    Leave a comment:


  • getouth
    replied
    I've done the conversation and the factor fan on the condensers works great, I really see no need to upgrade . A/C blows 42 degrees on 98 degree day in traffic.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • NorseMan
    replied
    Originally posted by Cephas
    Awesome, thanks! I'll give that compressor a try. I'm likely going to be using the stock fan setup since I still have that from when the PO removed the A/C system from the car.

    How are your temps currently? Are you looking to add the fan because it's not cold enough or is the car overheating?
    Engine temp runs fine. I have a huge puller fan on the radiator with a Mishimoto controller from ECS - https://www.ecstuning.com/b-mishimot...ancntluprobe~/
    However, this is my only fan. It's wired to turn on with the a/c. I thought about adding a small pusher fan in the front of the condenser in hopes to get the a/c temp a little lower. It blows fairly cool, but should be colder. I'm thinking a pusher fan would help here plus the piece of mind of having two electric fans. It also may not be very efficient to have just the puller fan behind the radiator as the primary for helping to cool the a/c too as it has to pull air through the radiator and then the condenser.
    So, I'm thinking of adding a small 10 or 12" pusher fan that will easily fit through the front grill (without having to take the front end apart) and connect that to the factory aux fan wiring. The only problem is that the small fans won't attached to the stock mounting brackets built into the condenser, so I would either use the plastic mounting ties that push through or try to fab up a simple bracket with some L braces and attach that to the factory mounting points. I think I like that idea better. Thoughts?

    Leave a comment:

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