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The Detailed E30 R-134a Conversion Thread/DIY

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    I've got it wired to run 2 speed right now. I have jumped the high speed relay & tested & did not notice any improvement. Is the spal not efficient at lower speeds, or do you suggest wiring for high only just to get max air flow?

    Comment


      It's the one change that will improve your idle performance since there's just not enough air flow at idle to dissipate enough heat. Booth high and low circuits use the same .5 wiring so that's fine but you'll want to use the fuse rated for high on the low circuit since it's now drawing more.

      the SPAL is fine especially if you're using a 16. I run a 14 w curved blades
      Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
      Alice the Time Capsule
      http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
      87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

      Comment


        Just received my rebuilt compressor back and this notice was in the box. Not sure what "Liquid Charge" means. Is that warning something I need to worry about? My understanding is that the refrigerant becomes a gas when it flows from the can through the gauges and into the system. Is that not correct? Are the refrigerant cans I buy from the auto parts store actually feeding the refrigerant in as a liquid? When I turn them sideways I do see a liquid in the site glass of the gauges, but I thought that was ok as long as you continue to rotate the can and not leave it sideways. All advice will be appreciated.

        Thanks, Cory.

        compressor rebuild warning by cory58f5, on Flickr
        1992 325i Cabrio
        1988 320i Touring
        2000 M5
        1977 530i
        2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
        BMWCCA
        E30CCA

        Comment


          Think I just answered my own questions. Found this info on an automotive AC forum.

          "Gas is always on top of the can, so holding the can upright will charge gas, upside down, liquid."
          "Simply turn the cylinder or can upside down to charge as a liquid or leave it upright to charge as a gas."
          "But never charge as a liquid if the low pressure port is on or near the compressor because it can slug the compressor as they are not made to compress a liquid, only a gas."
          1992 325i Cabrio
          1988 320i Touring
          2000 M5
          1977 530i
          2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
          BMWCCA
          E30CCA

          Comment


            Thanks to the great info here, elsewhere on the internet and in Rob Siegel's "Just Needs a Recharge," I finally updated the AC system in my Touring. Many thanks to the OP of this thread and others who have posted.

            My Touring had functional and surprisingly cold factory AC when I bough it in 2015. A few years later, an old R12 o-ring in one of the dryer connections failed. I replaced the o-ring and dryer then evacuated/refilled the system. A short time later the front seal on the Sieko compressor failed. I decided to update the system and started acquiring parts. The system was working great prior to the compressor seal failure, so I decided to not touch anything under the dash.

            Here are the parts I replaced.

            Sieko compressor rebuilt by by Discount Auto AC, Daytona Beach, FL ($170 plus shipping one way)
            New Nissens' parallel flow condenser
            All new OE under-hood hoses (4)
            New receiver/dryer

            The project was easy, the most difficult part being removing the front valance. I'd never done that before and it took a while to find all the mounting bolts. The other frustrating part was finding that my Harbor Freight vacuum pump had failed. I bought it when the o-ring failed a few years ago and only used it once. I charged the system with a little over one small can of 134a. The ambient temp was about 57 here. When the vent temp got down to 38, the compressor would cycle off, the vent temp would go up to 40 and the compressor would cycle back on. I think this means the evap temp sensor is working. At that point I decided to stop charging until a warmer day. Here are some pics.

            Freshly rebuilt compressor. Discount Auto AC was great to work with and their rebuild service was fast, even over Christmas. They gave me the option of painting the compressor or just cleaning it (to maintain the factory look).

            IMG_4226 by cory58f5, on Flickr

            New hoses/lines. Note the updated hard line along the fender that clears the hood hinge. I could only find this part spec'd for a cabrio. I bought it anyway because I knew it would fit other models.

            IMG_4228 by cory58f5, on Flickr

            New Nissens' condenser. I've read that others had problems with the mounting brackets but they were fine. The angle of the top left fan bracket was off so I had to bend it a little.

            IMG_4229 by cory58f5, on Flickr

            Cory


            Last edited by cory58; 01-04-2021, 05:01 AM.
            1992 325i Cabrio
            1988 320i Touring
            2000 M5
            1977 530i
            2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
            BMWCCA
            E30CCA

            Comment


              great info in this thread. going through the conversion process on my 88 M3. hit a snag with evaporator. it does not just slide out to the right. top corner of evap hits metal ridge in body. rather not take entire center stack apart...is there some trick to getting the thing to clear out of there?

              see yellow circle in pic below. misses by about a half inch. argh...



              Comment


                follow up...screw finesse...just yank the %^&*( thing out and accept that the fins are going to get bent. interesting that the new one is slightly shorter than the original so it should go back in easier.


                Comment


                  Anyone tried the Nissens parallel flow condensor?
                  89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                  new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                  Comment


                    Originally posted by digger View Post
                    Anyone tried the Nissens parallel flow condensor?
                    Yes. The core seems very nice but the mounting tabs for the fan seem to be haphazardly placed on the frame. I had to relocate two of the mounts to get the fan to fit properly.

                    Not a big deal but it takes some time to drill the rivets and carefully re-drill the holes. I have heard stories of others receiving the condenser with the top and bottom mounts flipped around backwards.


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                    Last edited by mjweimer; 03-18-2021, 03:46 AM.

                    Comment


                      Thanks for the heads up
                      89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                      new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                      Comment


                        Originally posted by digger View Post
                        Thanks for the heads up
                        Looks like Nissens' quality control is not great. Per post #602 above, my original fan bolted up to the new condenser with almost no hassle.

                        Cory
                        1992 325i Cabrio
                        1988 320i Touring
                        2000 M5
                        1977 530i
                        2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
                        BMWCCA
                        E30CCA

                        Comment


                          Thank you to glucklich21 for the original write up and Jeffinhiscars and everyone for the updates.

                          I have an 84 ETA. When I bought my car 2.5 years ago the A/C wasn’t cold. I took it to an A/C repair, and they changed the fittings and filled the car up with R134. They A/C was cold for about 9 months and then it started to get warm again. I usually had the system recharged every 9 months. The last time I had it recharged they put dye in the system to find the leak and it got warm after less than 6 months. When I took it in, they could not find a leak anywhere. We didn’t look at the evaporator and they said the leak could be there.

                          I was initially going to just change the O-rings and dryer however my good friend Victell had an extra evaporator and John (ForcedFireBird) gave me some expert advice. I said what the hell I might as well do everything while the system is evacuated. I put in a new evaporator, R134A expansion valve, parallel flow condenser and flushed the lines. I’m in Hawaii and it’s usually 75-85 degrees and rarely breaks 90 so I decided not to go with a Spal fan.

                          I bought a new pressure switch for the dryer however I was wondering if I could use my original low and high pressure switches. The new switch valve pin doesn't seem long enough, and I would prefer to not have to cut/splice any wiring.
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                          Attached Files
                          sigpic84 325e

                          Comment


                            Originally posted by 808ETA View Post
                            Thank you to glucklich21 for the original write up and Jeffinhiscars and everyone for the updates.

                            I have an 84 ETA. When I bought my car 2.5 years ago the A/C wasn’t cold. I took it to an A/C repair, and they changed the fittings and filled the car up with R134. They A/C was cold for about 9 months and then it started to get warm again. I usually had the system recharged every 9 months. The last time I had it recharged they put dye in the system to find the leak and it got warm after less than 6 months. When I took it in, they could not find a leak anywhere. We didn’t look at the evaporator and they said the leak could be there.

                            I was initially going to just change the O-rings and dryer however my good friend Victell had an extra evaporator and John (ForcedFireBird) gave me some expert advice. I said what the hell I might as well do everything while the system is evacuated. I put in a new evaporator, R134A expansion valve, parallel flow condenser and flushed the lines. I’m in Hawaii and it’s usually 75-85 degrees and rarely breaks 90 so I decided not to go with a Spal fan.

                            I bought a new pressure switch for the dryer however I was wondering if I could use my original low and high pressure switches. The new switch valve pin doesn't seem long enough, and I would prefer to not have to cut/splice any wiring.
                            Yes - you can use your existing pressure switch set-up, but there are different dryers for 1 vs. 2 switches. I kept 2 switches when I upgraded my system, but had to reorder the correct dryer. I can find the Bosch part number if needed.

                            Cory
                            1992 325i Cabrio
                            1988 320i Touring
                            2000 M5
                            1977 530i
                            2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
                            BMWCCA
                            E30CCA

                            Comment


                              Originally posted by cory58 View Post

                              Yes - you can use your existing pressure switch set-up, but there are different dryers for 1 vs. 2 switches. I kept 2 switches when I upgraded my system, but had to reorder the correct dryer. I can find the Bosch part number if needed.

                              Cory
                              Thank you Cory!

                              The new one looks exactly like my old one but the PN on my old one is worn off. I bought the Mahle AD 240000S which shows up as PN 351200091 and 64531466051. If you could share your part number that would be awesome!
                              sigpic84 325e

                              Comment


                                Originally posted by 808ETA View Post

                                Thank you Cory!

                                The new one looks exactly like my old one but the PN on my old one is worn off. I bought the Mahle AD 240000S which shows up as PN 351200091 and 64531466051. If you could share your part number that would be awesome!
                                Sorry - I meant Mahle/Behr, not Bosch. I think you have the right dryer for the 2-switch set up. Here are the part numbers I have.

                                On box - AD240000S
                                On dryer - 50986A

                                Cory
                                1992 325i Cabrio
                                1988 320i Touring
                                2000 M5
                                1977 530i
                                2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
                                BMWCCA
                                E30CCA

                                Comment

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