How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

[jalopi]

Technically, I don't think the threads of the outer tie rod completely come into contact with the threads on the inner tie rod until the clamp/sleeve pushes it down.

That being said, I think you'll be fine using only the lock nut for a week. Not recommended, but if you've gotta get the car on the road that's your only/best option.

Also, forgot to mention this in my last post, but Fastenall usually isn't open on the weekends... sorry guy

[kwseattle]

FYI - for miscellaneous bolts go to Fastenall - just checked, there are stores in Bellingham. They're a company that, like the name implies, makes fasteners. Obviously they wouldn't have the clamp ring, but chances are they'd have the lock nuts. Their inventory is cheap and most stuff can be had in stainless steel or zinc coated if you'd like. Most times I go in, get a bag of assorted bolts/nuts that I need for a project and spend less than $5... which would cost at least 10 at pep boys, home depot, ect.

Oh, thanks for checking that! I wonder if I could do it without the clamps. At this point it would be postponing my project another week.

I'd obviously get the part and then finish it next weekend, but I can't keep leaving puddles everywhere.

Sent from my Nexus 5

[jalopi]

FYI - for miscellaneous bolts go to Fastenall - just checked, there are stores in Bellingham. They're a company that, like the name implies, makes fasteners. Obviously they wouldn't have the clamp ring, but chances are they'd have the lock nuts. Their inventory is cheap and most stuff can be had in stainless steel or zinc coated if you'd like. Most times I go in, get a bag of assorted bolts/nuts that I need for a project and spend less than $5... which would cost at least 10 at pep boys, home depot, ect.

[kwseattle]

Reason being, they expect you to be using it in an e36, in which case you would be able to transfer everything over, a complete tie rod assembly comes with them.

Heres the part numbers you need,

2x nuts 32111136494
2x clamp ring 32111136179

Thank you for those. Now I just need to get my hands on some of these before the end of tomorrow, can't put this off another day. Might have to make a trip to the stealer D:

[FLG]

Reason being, they expect you to be using it in an e36, in which case you would be able to transfer everything over, a complete tie rod assembly comes with them.

Heres the part numbers you need,

2x nuts 32111136494
2x clamp ring 32111136179

[kwseattle]

Yep!

Actually changed the tie rods on my e36 yesterday, pick fork and little hammer worked fine. Don't be afraid to smack the crap out if it.

How big is your hammer? Twas a mechanic for five years, never ran into a tie rod I couldn't knock out with my three pound hammer... though all the cars were up in the air. I have had to do side jobs at the house and the same hammer worked fine. The problem is most people don't hit it hard enough - trust me, you're not gonna break the steel knuckle

Guess I really just wasn't hitting hard enough, haha. I forgot that they probably have quite a large factor of safety, wouldn't want those things breaking by any sort of road impacts other than a crash.

I've actually bought myself one of these, though, so I should be fine when I attempt again tomorrow.

Another quick question, my outer tie rods didn't come with these lock nuts: .

Wtf do I do about that, find some nuts that'll fit? Annoying that my steering rack straight up didn't come with any outer tie rods on it.

[cgk_iii]

Great info !!! Z3 rack is on and it feels amazing.. Thx alot!!!
Now I have to figure it out from where&why my tranny is leaking right after I swapped the rack in.

Did you use the spacer and what steering coupler* did you use?

[FLG]

Yep!

Actually changed the tie rods on my e36 yesterday, pick fork and little hammer worked fine. Don't be afraid to smack the crap out if it.

Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

[jalopi]

How big is your hammer? Twas a mechanic for five years, never ran into a tie rod I couldn't knock out with my three pound hammer... though all the cars were up in the air. I have had to do side jobs at the house and the same hammer worked fine. The problem is most people don't hit it hard enough - trust me, you're not gonna break the steel knuckle.

On a side note, in the future, thread the nut back onto the tie rod / anything you're gonna slam before you do so. Might fuck the nut up a little, but it's a lot better than repairing threads.

[kwseattle]

In the most severe cases, heat the knuckle with a torch (heat gun won't do anything), and have a cup of cold water handy to toss on knuckle after about 10 minutes of torch. That'll shock it free to be easily knocked out.

Ah, sounds like it might work. I'd hope it wouldn't crack the knuckle, though, that would get expensive.

After watching some videos it seems I might not have been hitting the knuckle hard enough, hah. But damn, was it stuck. I think it might have had to do with it being about 30 degrees when attempting to get them free. I might try and get my hands on a tie rod puller or a ball joint separator and maybe give it another shot this weekend if I can get some shop space.

[KVF]

In the most severe cases, heat the knuckle with a torch (heat gun won't do anything), and have a cup of cold water handy to toss on knuckle after about 10 minutes of torch. That'll shock it free to be easily knocked out.

[kwseattle]

Well after two unsuccessful attempts, I'm still driving around with my busted e30 rack. So many puddles...

Attempt 1: realize that I can't use the same outer tie rods + outer tie rods are shot, must order new ones. Can't get them out of the steering knuckle.

Attempt 2: really can't get the outer tie rods out of the knuckle. Outer tie rods are even more shot. Give up after three hours of hitting things with hammers. Drive home from friend's shop on really sketchy set of un-torqued/crossthreaded (but completely stuck) outer tie rods.

Any tips on how to get these buggers out when they're really really stuck? I hit the knuckle, the rods, the top of the threads, used a pickle fork, tried a tie rod puller (that didn't fit), used a heat gun to try and heat up the knuckle, pry bar... The only tool I didn't try was a tie rod puller because apparently no stores have them. I didn't realize a ball joint separator could have worked, also. I ended up damaging the threads on one tie rod so bad that I had to file some of them off just so I could put the nut back on to drive home.

I think I'm about to resort to a professional because I don't have any time (or space) and I'm tired of my clunky, wobbly, leaky, misaligned steering.

[KVF]

Unless you drastically altered spacing the rack, the tie rods must be wrong.

[Gordo0208]

I'm using 14" bottlecaps now with winter tires with a regular E36 rack and I have no issues at all.

OEM tie rods? I bought new URO ones for the swap, maybe they're a bit thicker. I honestly have no idea what's causing this. Everything LOOKS good up until the tie rod end. Can you show me a pic of your tie rod at the knuckle if possible?

[ELVA164]

I did the swap and it completely changed the geometry of how the tie rod sit on the steering knuckle, not a whole lot but, enough that it continously scrapes against my stock 14" bottle caps. Has anyone else had this issue or is it safe to assume by the time everyone does this swap they have bigger wheels already?

I'm using 14" bottlecaps now with winter tires with a regular E36 rack and I have no issues at all.