So how horrendous is the bump steer supposed to be after this swap is done? I did align (string method, did the same when I put my tie rod spacers in and it turned out fine) here's what I did:
1. e46 shafts cut to length
2. z3 rack, it's something under 3 turns lock to lock
3. Used approximately 50mm of washers on top of the rack as a spacer (rough measurement of the height difference between the two racks)
4. IE camber plates (the ones with the urethane)
5. IE delrin CABs
6. e46 lower control arms
7. Stock e30 tie rods
Still haven't finished the PS bracket and lines, so it was unassisted at the time I did my shakedown. Camber is set to max positive (still probably -1.5 to -2* or so)
It's got a very, very slight pull but otherwise drives fairly straight, so either the toe is a bit off or the camber is a bit off. Regardless, as long as the road is smooth I'm good... but as soon as I touch a pebble on the road it's almost as if the car tries to throw me into the nearest tree. Is this something that'll get better once the PS is installed and running? Because it didn't seem to make much of a difference with the e30 rack, though that was progressive, not linear.
How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap
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I just finished reconnecting my power steering, and man do I agree with that. It's a whole different car now, I could barely turn the wheel before.
On the first drive I was sitting in my car laughing at how crazy fast the steering is now!
It's unbelievable. I definitely recommend the Z3 rack.
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I tried that power steering delete w/stock set-up and it was still a bitch. At speed it's not that bad, but most definitely an overrated experience. There are simply no gains to be had.Leave a comment:
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Alignment is done, it's set at zero toe. I forgot to ask what the camber was, haha.
Still a bitch to turn, though, that power steering is definitely being reconnected asap. That would be fault of the M3 suspension.Leave a comment:
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Yep two tape measure you can get it pretty good.
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Zero toe. Look up how to do a string alignment (technically meant for live axle cars... but whatever, it'll work well enough), it'll get you by pretty good until you can get into a shop for a real alignment.Leave a comment:
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I looked at it again today, my right front toe is CRAZY in. Like visible from a distance. That'd be fault of my hasty tape-measurements. So I definitely won't be driving it anymore until I can get it in for an alignment. I've only really driven it so far to test how the new rack has felt. @bataangpinoy: I'm not sure how I could've mounted the rack too far down, that isn't really possible.
Good to know, hah. I'll probably reconnect once I determine if it's the alignment or not. I'm suspecting it definitely has a part to do with it, since it's so bad at the moment.
I'll be autocrossing it once it dries up a little bit here in WA (if it does? hah).
Front camber is set probably at about -2.5 degrees, not sure. It looks pretty aggressive. Think I should run zero toe or slightly out? It's mostly a daily driver, so I'm not sure.Last edited by kwseattle; 02-11-2014, 07:39 PM.Leave a comment:
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My guess is that you're used to the progressive racks in the e30s - they technically have an, 'assist' if you will, but it's more so for being stable in straight lines. z3 racks are all response, all the time.Leave a comment:
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Get an alignment first. Do you track the car at all? I run - 3.5 degrees of camber and zero the toe. Is perfect.
If stock everything you'll just be able to adjust toe
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Yeah, I'm not sure, haha.
On another note, I'm running it unpowered at the moment and MAN is it hard to steer. Everyone is saying "oh you won't notice it above 5 mph!" This is definitely BS in my case. It could be the fact that I need to get it aligned, or maybe it's my E36 M3 front suspension + large wheels.
Anybody know if misaligned front toe would cause a massive increase in steering effort? It isn't pulling at all, but it re-centers very aggressively and there also seems to be a huge amount of bump steer. ANYTHING on the road surface will almost violently jerk the wheel (correct me if I'm wrong on using the term bump steer). I'm guessing (it looked like it) that it is very toe-in at the moment.
E36m sucks terrible to drive without power steering.
If your car has not been aligned it us dangerous to drive and should be aligned before anything else.
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sounds like you have alot of caster, and might have positioned the rack a little too far downwardLeave a comment:
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Yeah, I'm not sure, haha.
On another note, I'm running it unpowered at the moment and MAN is it hard to steer. Everyone is saying "oh you won't notice it above 5 mph!" This is definitely BS in my case. It could be the fact that I need to get it aligned, or maybe it's my E36 M3 front suspension + large wheels.
Anybody know if misaligned front toe would cause a massive increase in steering effort? It isn't pulling at all, but it re-centers very aggressively and there also seems to be a huge amount of bump steer. ANYTHING on the road surface will almost violently jerk the wheel (correct me if I'm wrong on using the term bump steer). I'm guessing (it looked like it) that it is very toe-in at the moment.Last edited by kwseattle; 02-10-2014, 09:29 PM.Leave a comment:
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Hehe that's the one I'm installing in my car now.... I figure the worst that could happen is the PS seals blow out?
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It was a new AAE 3111N rack. I know it probably wasn't the best idea to buy aftermarket, but it has a two year/unlimited milage warranty so I'm not worried.
I'll try craigslist, see what happens.Leave a comment:
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There was no core charge? Throw it up on craigslist then... I'm sure someone needs a core.Leave a comment:

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