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How To Guide - E36 Steering Rack Swap

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  • KVF
    replied
    Originally posted by kwseattle View Post
    Alignment is done, it's set at zero toe. I forgot to ask what the camber was, haha.



    Still a bitch to turn, though, that power steering is definitely being reconnected asap. That would be fault of the M3 suspension.

    I tried that power steering delete w/stock set-up and it was still a bitch. At speed it's not that bad, but most definitely an overrated experience. There are simply no gains to be had.

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  • kwseattle
    replied
    Alignment is done, it's set at zero toe. I forgot to ask what the camber was, haha.

    Still a bitch to turn, though, that power steering is definitely being reconnected asap. That would be fault of the M3 suspension.

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  • FLG
    replied
    Yep two tape measure you can get it pretty good.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

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  • jalopi
    replied
    Zero toe. Look up how to do a string alignment (technically meant for live axle cars... but whatever, it'll work well enough), it'll get you by pretty good until you can get into a shop for a real alignment.

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  • kwseattle
    replied
    I looked at it again today, my right front toe is CRAZY in. Like visible from a distance. That'd be fault of my hasty tape-measurements. So I definitely won't be driving it anymore until I can get it in for an alignment. I've only really driven it so far to test how the new rack has felt. @bataangpinoy: I'm not sure how I could've mounted the rack too far down, that isn't really possible.

    Originally posted by Wanganstyle View Post
    E36m sucks terrible to drive without power steering.
    Good to know, hah. I'll probably reconnect once I determine if it's the alignment or not. I'm suspecting it definitely has a part to do with it, since it's so bad at the moment.

    Originally posted by FLG View Post
    Get an alignment first. Do you track the car at all? I run - 3.5 degrees of camber and zero the toe. Is perfect.

    If stock everything you'll just be able to adjust toe

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2
    I'll be autocrossing it once it dries up a little bit here in WA (if it does? hah).
    Front camber is set probably at about -2.5 degrees, not sure. It looks pretty aggressive. Think I should run zero toe or slightly out? It's mostly a daily driver, so I'm not sure.
    Last edited by kwseattle; 02-11-2014, 08:39 PM.

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  • jalopi
    replied
    My guess is that you're used to the progressive racks in the e30s - they technically have an, 'assist' if you will, but it's more so for being stable in straight lines. z3 racks are all response, all the time.

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  • FLG
    replied
    Get an alignment first. Do you track the car at all? I run - 3.5 degrees of camber and zero the toe. Is perfect.

    If stock everything you'll just be able to adjust toe

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

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  • Wanganstyle
    replied
    Originally posted by kwseattle View Post
    Yeah, I'm not sure, haha.

    On another note, I'm running it unpowered at the moment and MAN is it hard to steer. Everyone is saying "oh you won't notice it above 5 mph!" This is definitely BS in my case. It could be the fact that I need to get it aligned, or maybe it's my E36 M3 front suspension + large wheels.

    Anybody know if misaligned front toe would cause a massive increase in steering effort? It isn't pulling at all, but it re-centers very aggressively and there also seems to be a huge amount of bump steer. ANYTHING on the road surface will almost violently jerk the wheel (correct me if I'm wrong on using the term bump steer). I'm guessing (it looked like it) that it is very toe-in at the moment.

    E36m sucks terrible to drive without power steering.

    If your car has not been aligned it us dangerous to drive and should be aligned before anything else.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

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  • bataangpinoy
    replied
    sounds like you have alot of caster, and might have positioned the rack a little too far downward

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  • kwseattle
    replied
    Originally posted by jalopi View Post
    Hehe that's the one I'm installing in my car now.... I figure the worst that could happen is the PS seals blow out?
    Yeah, I'm not sure, haha.

    On another note, I'm running it unpowered at the moment and MAN is it hard to steer. Everyone is saying "oh you won't notice it above 5 mph!" This is definitely BS in my case. It could be the fact that I need to get it aligned, or maybe it's my E36 M3 front suspension + large wheels.

    Anybody know if misaligned front toe would cause a massive increase in steering effort? It isn't pulling at all, but it re-centers very aggressively and there also seems to be a huge amount of bump steer. ANYTHING on the road surface will almost violently jerk the wheel (correct me if I'm wrong on using the term bump steer). I'm guessing (it looked like it) that it is very toe-in at the moment.
    Last edited by kwseattle; 02-10-2014, 10:29 PM.

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  • jalopi
    replied
    Hehe that's the one I'm installing in my car now.... I figure the worst that could happen is the PS seals blow out?

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  • kwseattle
    replied
    Originally posted by jalopi View Post
    There was no core charge? Throw it up on craigslist then... I'm sure someone needs a core.
    It was a new AAE 3111N rack. I know it probably wasn't the best idea to buy aftermarket, but it has a two year/unlimited milage warranty so I'm not worried.

    I'll try craigslist, see what happens.

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  • jalopi
    replied
    There was no core charge? Throw it up on craigslist then... I'm sure someone needs a core.

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  • kwseattle
    replied
    I actually ended up finding the parts at the dealer, so all is well. Swap is complete, but the snow on the road in Seattle is preventing me from having any fun with the car.

    Just wondering now if any companies that do rack remanufacturing will actually buy our old racks... or just take them?

    I don't know what to do with my old one, haha.

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  • FLG
    replied
    Problem is, your gonna have to get an alignment and if you want to use the correct hardware then you'll need to remove the tie rod and get yet another alignment. If you need it to just move the car you can get by without using anything really as long as your not driving it. If you want to try to find the nut local or lock nuts it's m14x1.5

    I think it would be fine with a lock nut but being it's such a critical part I'm sure bmw did it that way for a reason and I'd get the proper hardware.

    Sent from my SCH-I545 using Tapatalk 2

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