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Why not boost the ETA?

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    #31
    Originally posted by ethree View Post
    Don't weak single valve springs like those found in the eta head like to allow valves to float and fuck shit up?
    you can always put an i cam and springs in the eta head, if you have that stuff sitting around. I have a similar set-up, with some port work, chip, etc, and it works great. The valve size is still slightly smaller on the eta, but boost can overcome quite a bit of that deficiency! Double springs really are needed if you are gonna drive the thing ;)

    (i actually picked my car up for $400.00, accident victim, just got a backup motor that I'm building ($140!!! ), with a getrag, ecu, afm, etc etc etc.. I'm rebuilding it now for a swap... gonna b a 2.8i, motronic 1.3 chipped, etc.. I got an i head, manifold, bored TB, m30 afm..
    Last edited by David Alejandro; 02-18-2009, 02:01 PM.
    e30 x2 (1 cab) lotsa mods; e46 w/m3 front bumper + 330zhp suspension, e36/7 (z3) 3.0i :p

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      #32
      Originally posted by nando View Post
      I wasn't really speaking of you specifically, there were some other comments in this thread that lead me to post that.

      anyway, you are right that a static 9:1 CR won't neccesarily hurt you under boost. The big thing is going to be exhaust restrictions and the cam profile, that will control where your knock threshold falls for a given compression ratio. basically the higher the static CR, the more agressive your cam needs to be and the less restrictive your exhaust should be. Which essentially means a high CR eta block with the stock eta head, cam and exhaust is going to have a much lower knock threshold than an engine with the same CR and a better flowing head.
      Oh I know the old trick of using an agressive cam for lowering cranking pressure, the Firebird has a 291/306 bumpstick ;)
      john@m20guru.com
      Links:
      Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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        #33
        Considering doing the i head sawp and eventually a turbo.My mitsubishi starion in turbo and want my 325 to be also.It's an E si I know all to well about what starts happening near 5k.I found a 325i last week and asked the guy how much for the head.$650 cash for whole motor.He said it was a 2.5.Is this the i head to use or is there a 2.7 i out there?Kinda a stupid question but just wanna be sure I'm getting the rite stuff.
        What do I need to collect part wise to make this swap work?injectors,afm,wiring harness or whatever else.I would just buy the whole car but i'm running outta space for cars,parts and dogs.

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          #34
          the i engines are 2.5l and the eta's are 2.7l. I am guessing you are wanting to put the i head on the eta. You'll need the head, intake, harness and DME. Or you can just swap the whole motor for an easy upgrade without tearing into the motor. There is more to this, I have never done it myself.
          Originally posted by Nicademus
          My car beats off to that car. :bow:

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            #35
            Can i get upgraded valve springs and cam to swap into my 2.7?and what/where best sorce?I could prob get cheaper than buying just the head.
            This car is my DD and should really leave it alone but it's just such a fun car.Just runs out of rpm's too soon.A friend offered it to me for $400 and I grabbed it to tinker with.Has turned ito great car.would just like some more power.It had issues with the ds and csb.also the axles.that's all good now.

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              #36
              Originally posted by backtrail69 View Post
              No... The reason its stupid to boost a eta engine is revs... HP is calculated (TQ x RPM)/5252 and if you arent spinning very many RPMs you aren't going to be making much power... also the head doesnt flow very well compared to an i...

              Oh so you're saying a diesel is stupid to turbo for the same reason..?
              Function.
              Form.
              sigpic

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                #37
                Originally posted by JdmEuroNorth View Post



                Oh so you're saying a diesel is stupid to turbo for the same reason..?
                haha pwned...

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                  #38
                  Originally posted by JdmEuroNorth View Post



                  Oh so you're saying a diesel is stupid to turbo for the same reason..?
                  dont diesel motors flow more air than gasoline motors? like 10x the ammount? so lower revs on a diesel motor would be like higher revs on a gasoline motor?
                  Originally posted by Ferdinand
                  I carry a cheap pressure gauge in my glovebox with which to manually check my tire pressures, but I keep forgetting that in the USA glovebox space is sacred as it is reserved exclusively for the purpose of storing handguns.

                  DIVING BOARD DIVISION DIVISION IDIOT

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                    #39
                    Originally posted by mikegar View Post
                    dont diesel motors flow more air than gasoline motors? like 10x the ammount? so lower revs on a diesel motor would be like higher revs on a gasoline motor?
                    No. Are you sure you're not thinking compression? Diesels typically have 2 or more times as high compression as an average gasoline engine. But I'm quite sure they don't draw more air. In fact, since they usually operate in lower RPM ranges than gasoline engines, they would draw less air since the volume of the engine times RPM is lower than in a gasoline engine.

                    Take that with a grain of salt, I'm a doctor not an engineer.

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                      #40
                      Originally posted by JdmEuroNorth View Post



                      Oh so you're saying a diesel is stupid to turbo for the same reason..?
                      are you going to pull a boat with your eta turbo?

                      no?

                      then shut up.
                      Build thread

                      Bimmerlabs

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                        #41
                        A 130 hp diesel draw the same ammount of air as a 130 hp petrol motor. Flow of air determines power not boost revs e.t.c. More revs only makes more power if their is the air flow at those higher rpm's.

                        A boosted eta would be nice. A smallish turbo (I wonder if the 524/324td kit would work, it may be to small though) should give the required air flow or the engine. Which one would take some looking at compressor maps of different turbines. It would retain good off boost torque and when the wategate opens their should be a good surge of torque. It won't last long like in a diesel. I imagine it will be all out of ideas above 4000 rpm. So it won't be a racer that will out drag a corvette but it could make a very usable daily driver.

                        Putting i springs in an eta head with the eta manifold is foolish. The i springs would allow it to spin at higher rpm's but cam wear could be an issue due to the 4 bearing cam and the manifold/head does not flow well at high rpm's. That is why the optimium shifting point on a eta motor is about 4500 rpm (on 10.2 CR motors should be similar though on your 9:1 CR motors).

                        FI on an eta please do it. I want to but I have porject already.

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                          #42
                          I made this thread a long time ago, and my plans have changed for the car, so I doubt you will be seeing my eta boosted as it is. Once I get around to swapping in the GM ECM, then I will be putting the 885 top end on and then maybe boosting that (I have all the parts, just saving to buy all the gaskets etc, and need a new timing belt while I'm in there).

                          As far as the cam bearings and using the double springs, I could have sworn I have seen people here that drilled the oil passages in the head to use the other three journals to convert the eta head to 7 bearings.

                          You are absolutely correct on the airflow equaling power. We all know that an engine needs to be somewhere around 14.7 for idle/cruise etc and when in power enrichment, we need to be somewhere around 12.5. Since the AFR requirement from gasoline and diesel is the same, the you have to derive that equal airflow from either engine will make the same power.

                          When one thinks that a diesel is moving more air because of more compression, this is correct, but when you are running at 1/2 of the RPM's and 2x as much compression, you are still going to flow the same amount of volume.

                          The reason a diesel and a gasoline turbo generally looks so different is because with high compression the exhaust gasses will have a higher volume, but because of the less RPM's, a lower velocity. This is why a gasoline turbo tends to have a small turbine housing in comparison to the compressor whereas a diesel turbo tends to have a turbine as large or larger than the compressor.

                          The eta would be a tough to make a choice of a turbo. With the lower compression of the gasoline, yet semi-lower RPM's like a diesel, one would probably have to try a few different turbos to find one that was optimal.
                          john@m20guru.com
                          Links:
                          Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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                            #43
                            Originally posted by Danny View Post
                            I run 7psi on my 10.5:1 m42.
                            hey Danny did do the F.I. setup yourself...if so...do you have a built thread...

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                              #44
                              Originally posted by eur04lif3 View Post
                              hey Danny did do the F.I. setup yourself...if so...do you have a built thread...
                              Look at all threads made by me.

                              Its called the ultimate budget build.

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                                #45
                                not sure if anyone was still interested, but i have a turbo e

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