I put a scraper in cause the car would experience more than "Natural" g's due to turbo and big sticky tires and blah blah blah. And it was cheap enough as a why the hell not part.
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I would like to see the dyno results on that...especially on an M20. No one is winning or losing races in SE30 because of a scraper. IF there is a power difference it's got to be so nominal it wouldn't make a difference on the track.
Originally posted by ForcedFirebird View PostYou have measured the difference? The Teflon is supposed to have less than .005" clearance after bedding and can safely make contact with the rotating parts. Are you really able to get that close with a steel version? That's barely more than the thickness of typing paper.
Correct, it will keep your oil pressure up, but cavitation above the baffle will still keep excess oil on and around the crank. On the dyno, it's proven that a scraper will increase power, it lightens the rotating assy. Couple that information with track conditions and there's more power we don;t know about since it would be almost impossible to replicate a hard corner on a dyno.
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Originally posted by calz4m View PostI would like to see the dyno results on that...especially on an M20. No one is winning or losing races in SE30 because of a scraper. IF there is a power difference it's got to be so nominal it wouldn't make a difference on the track.
If it was a waste of time, then so is lightening the flywheel, knife edging a crank or lightening pistons.
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All good info - thanks guys :-)
The IJ Scraper (Ishihara-Johnson) looks like a good one. A lot of development has gone into it and the price for the steel one @ $109 seems reasonable. I did further research and several SpecE30 racers are really happy with the IJ piece.
I've also sent off an e-mail to Metric Mechanic since they make a scraper too, but their website doesn't give too many details. It'll be interesting to see what they say. They also offer some kind of baffled oil pan.....which I inquired about as well.
JonRides...
1991 325i - sold :(
2004 2WD Frontier King Cab
RIP #17 Jules Bianchi
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digging up from the grave.....
so, the m20 from what I understand doesn't have oil squirters for the cylinders. If the crank scraper is installed, would that cause the rings to wear since the oil isn't going up the block? If I just installed the oil baffle, would I be okay?
Anyone have any opinions?
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Originally posted by jlevie View PostA scraper isn't going to affect ring wear.
I'd rather just run a baffle on the next motor. Glad to hear some on here run a baffle alone and maintain oil pressure. But which baffle is best? I'd appreciate anyone who runs a baffle sharing what they run.
Baffles from IE and TCMotorsports seem pretty simple - just a flat horizontal piece of metal with just enough clearance for the pump.
VAC adds vertical pieces with hinged flappers. So does this one from Advanced Auto Fabrication: http://www.hardmotorsport.com/AAF-E3...E30OILBAFF.htm
But I'm concerned about all of these because they so closely encircle the pump - might that actually prevent oil from returning to the sump? The 2006 Metric Mechanic brochure shows a modified stock pan - hinged flapper door cut into kick-out baffle and just a small rectangular lip over the oil drain (see page 12 of http://www.metricmechanic.com/pdf/M2...ne-Booklet.pdf). Does anyone know if MM still goes this route?
Thanks calz4m for the tip on oil level delete.
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there are lots of people running scrapers in the M20 not so sure that it was the reason for grenading the engine89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...
new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505
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Originally posted by thesalboy View PostI disagree, and rings are not the only part of the piston that needs oil. I ran an IE scraper in an M20 that started eating oil at about a quart an hour, shortly before it grenaded. Post-mortem: #3 piston failed at the wrist pin bosses. #1 compression rings broken into 20 pieces. Cylinder walls polished. I'm pretty sure the scraper prevented oil getting up to where it needs to go.
I'd rather just run a baffle on the next motor. Glad to hear some on here run a baffle alone and maintain oil pressure. But which baffle is best? I'd appreciate anyone who runs a baffle sharing what they run.
Baffles from IE and TCMotorsports seem pretty simple - just a flat horizontal piece of metal with just enough clearance for the pump.
VAC adds vertical pieces with hinged flappers. So does this one from Advanced Auto Fabrication: http://www.hardmotorsport.com/AAF-E3...E30OILBAFF.htm
But I'm concerned about all of these because they so closely encircle the pump - might that actually prevent oil from returning to the sump? The 2006 Metric Mechanic brochure shows a modified stock pan - hinged flapper door cut into kick-out baffle and just a small rectangular lip over the oil drain (see page 12 of http://www.metricmechanic.com/pdf/M2...ne-Booklet.pdf). Does anyone know if MM still goes this route?
Thanks calz4m for the tip on oil level delete.
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Originally posted by nando View PostI'm pretty sure the crank scraper had nothing to do with it and something else caused your ring failure. people have been running crank scrapers in M20s for 10 years now, possibly longer.
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Originally posted by nando View Postthat sounds about right
that guy special made one for my ix motor. I didn't have time to fit it to the crank, so I left it out. then I lost it. :(
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Originally posted by nando View Postthat sounds about right
that guy special made one for my ix motor. I didn't have time to fit it to the crank, so I left it out. then I lost it. :(
Anyone else have anything to say about which pan baffles you've used, and whether you have experienced oiling failure using only a pan baffle?
Thanks much.
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