Rebuilt engine break in procedure?

[CrazyPrime]

I rebuilt my engine new rings, bearings cam. And I don't know how to break it in I've Rea the other forums about it but I will also be using a new clutch that says not to drive had for the first 500 miles? How do I break it in all at once? Cam, clutch, and rings?

[SkiFree]

If you search you will find ...

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=309828

In addition, religiously set the valve lash with the head on the car prior to start up. I've seen a couple instances recently where someone has done the valve lash with the head off the car and then torque the head on and fire up the motor. That's no bueno as the lash tightened significantly when the head was torqued onto the block.

After the initial start up go back in and check the lash AGAIN, especially if your valves and seats have been ground/replaced. Part of the break in means the valves and seats are adjusting to their new mate. As a result the new valve mating surface pounds against the new seat surface which incrementally allows the valve to push higher into the head. And that means the valve stem in pushing up further tightening the lash. (I've seen new race engines destroyed in a weekend due to mushroomed valve stems as a result of neglecting this fact).

[EatsHondas]

I am a proponent of the hard break-in. Others prefer to baby the motor even though it is detrimental to initial ring seal. Hard break-in is best if done properly by a competent person.

Driving the clutch hard means to slip it excessively. You can make pulls through the powerband on a new clutch no problem as long as you make sure to not slip it when shifting. This creates heat which can glaze the surface of your new clutch, destroying its ability to hold the flywheel. No launching, no clutch dumps, no flat foot shifting. You get the idea.

PS: Full operating temp is also very important. No cold romping.

[CrazyPrime]

Ok thanks for the heads up guys! I got another question how does one remove that thing that holds the belt pulley on the and of the crank? How does the intermittent shaft come out of the block? These 2

[barry]

Good Info

[digger]

Drive it like you stole it and avoid steady speeds and revving it out all the way for first few hundreds of miles

[exc3718]

Intermediate shaft - you have to remove everything else on the front of the engine to get to a plate held on by two flat heads. It will be obvious once you remove those other bits.

That drive pulley thing - I bolted the pulley wheel (whatever this is called) back on and took a mallet to it. Came right off, probably not the approved way to do it though lol

[CrazyPrime]

Haha ya I figured it out I just borrowed a harmonic balancer puller from work. It came off without a problem.

[packratbimmer]

Think about changing the oil on a more frequent interval initially

[TobyB]

I am a proponent of the hard break-in.

This. Lots of throttle, no idle, not TOO many revs (under 5k, maybe for an M20)

And ZDDP in the oil, especially for the first 2500 miles...

t

[CrazyPrime]

So I need to figure out how to break in my engine ( seat piston rings) and break in my clutch. I have read how to do both but they seem tone conflicting. For engine brake in is fluctuating revs and speed up to wot. But to break in a clutch you just do normal stop and go driving. How do you break in both?

[nomansland92]

Aslong as your not dropping your clutch or letting it slip, it will break in just fine

[deutschman]

Get a black rooster
Cut its neck and sprinkle the blood all over the valve cover
Then light three candles and place them counter clockwise in a triangle pattern in the engine bay
Take your underwear off and place them on your head
Now jump in a circle on one leg clock wise seven times, and then counter clockwise three times while chanting "lube my shaft, protect my pistons, holly god I want more cheezits."


That should do it