Head bolt torque question .

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  • JeLani
    E30 Mastermind
    • Aug 2015
    • 1552

    #1

    Head bolt torque question .

    Can i re-torque a head that hasn't been fired yet? the bolts are new VR ones with brand new oem washers. It was my first time doing it and want to make sure i did it right. I did the 22 torque with the two 90 degree rotations, again the car has not been started but does that make a difference on the condition of the bolts?
    1986 LTW M52 (First project 2015- )
    1998 e36 328ic/5 -
    Roundie alpina pig cheek’d (1969)
    1967 2002 parts car
    1994 318iS junked.
  • Fsnow
    Advanced Member
    • May 2015
    • 184

    #2
    Since they are torque to yield bolts you can only torque them once. You could buy new ones and try again but If you followed the correct procedures then it should be fine.
    sigpic
    1991 318is x 2 .

    Comment

    • Kershaw
      R3V OG
      • Feb 2010
      • 11822

      #3
      If you followed the correct procedure it should be fine. If you overtorque them, they may snap. If they snap, you're in a world of shit.

      If you followed the correct procedure, why are you worried?
      AWD > RWD

      Comment

      • JeLani
        E30 Mastermind
        • Aug 2015
        • 1552

        #4
        My torque wrench was a shit one and i kept having to re calibrate it and not sure if i did the final 90* torque on #10. At this point i am unsure now but at the same time i may have actually done it.
        1986 LTW M52 (First project 2015- )
        1998 e36 328ic/5 -
        Roundie alpina pig cheek’d (1969)
        1967 2002 parts car
        1994 318iS junked.

        Comment

        • 101
          Mod Crazy
          • Jul 2011
          • 764

          #5
          Never reuse standard head bolts. Ever.

          Based on what you've said, you're best bet is to get a new set of head bolts and do the job over. It's cheap insurance and peace of mind.

          Starting from the center of the head (same pattern as the Bentley recommends), ONE AT A TIME, remove each head bolt, replace it and fully torque it (both the 22# and the angle torquing) BEFORE moving on to the next bolt. The idea is that you don't want to release the pressure on the head gasket as you're doing this.

          BTW - this is the same procedure that BMW recommends when updating the head bolts from the older "hex head" style to the newer "torx head" style. I've done this on two of my cars with no issue.

          When each new bolt is completed, put a small dab of paint on it or otherwise mark it so there's no forgetting which ones you've done.
          101

          The E30 collection:
          1987 325es M52 - Schwarz / Taurus Red Sport (son #2's)
          1987 325is - Delphin / Black Sport (son #3's)
          1987 325i Convertible - Triple Black
          1989 325iX Coupe - Diamondschwarz / Black Comfort
          1990 325iX Coupe - Sterling Silver / Grey Sport

          1981 Fiat 124 Spider 2000 - Green / Tan
          1998 Volvo V70 GLT - White / Tan
          1998 Volvo S70 T5 manual - White / Taupe
          2001 Ford Windstar - Silver / Grey (parts hauler)
          2006 Lexus GX470 - White / Tan (tow rig)

          Comment

          • jeffnhiscars
            R3V OG
            • Jun 2011
            • 6010

            #6
            The final 90 has nothing to do with how accurate your torque wrench is since it's by degree not ft lbs
            Seat Shocks....I have passed the baton to John Christy from Ninestitch. Email John or Garrett at ninestitch1@gmail.com

            https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/sho...86#post4944786
            Alice the Time Capsule
            http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=360504
            87 Zinno Cabrio barn find 98k and still smells like a barn. Build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/show...20#post3455220

            Comment

            • JeLani
              E30 Mastermind
              • Aug 2015
              • 1552

              #7
              Originally posted by jeffnhiscars
              The final 90 has nothing to do with how accurate your torque wrench is since it's by degree not ft lbs
              Oh :( , well i did the initial torque and 90* for all of them of course , not knowing it was about degree and not torque level (and this being my first time using a torque wrench) i kept re adjusting and now im not sure if i did my final 90* turn on bolt #10 :((
              1986 LTW M52 (First project 2015- )
              1998 e36 328ic/5 -
              Roundie alpina pig cheek’d (1969)
              1967 2002 parts car
              1994 318iS junked.

              Comment

              • vpilarrt
                R3VLimited
                • Jun 2006
                • 2096

                #8
                So are you saying you did 90 ft-lbs for the 90*? It's supposed to be 90° of turn.
                Last edited by vpilarrt; 04-03-2016, 06:12 AM.

                Comment

                • nando
                  Moderator
                  • Nov 2003
                  • 34827

                  #9
                  New bolts are like $20. Do it again, correctly.
                  Build thread

                  Bimmerlabs

                  Comment

                  • JeLani
                    E30 Mastermind
                    • Aug 2015
                    • 1552

                    #10
                    Originally posted by vpilarrt
                    So are you saying you did 90 ft-lbs for the 90*? It's supposed to be 90° of turn.
                    22 ft lbs 90 degree turns, 90 ft lbs wouldve snapped the bolts for sure lol.
                    1986 LTW M52 (First project 2015- )
                    1998 e36 328ic/5 -
                    Roundie alpina pig cheek’d (1969)
                    1967 2002 parts car
                    1994 318iS junked.

                    Comment

                    • JeLani
                      E30 Mastermind
                      • Aug 2015
                      • 1552

                      #11
                      Originally posted by nando
                      New bolts are like $20. Do it again, correctly.
                      I will
                      1986 LTW M52 (First project 2015- )
                      1998 e36 328ic/5 -
                      Roundie alpina pig cheek’d (1969)
                      1967 2002 parts car
                      1994 318iS junked.

                      Comment

                      • estoguy
                        E30 Enthusiast
                        • May 2013
                        • 1087

                        #12
                        Originally posted by 101
                        Never reuse standard head bolts. Ever.

                        Based on what you've said, you're best bet is to get a new set of head bolts and do the job over. It's cheap insurance and peace of mind.


                        BTW - this is the same procedure that BMW recommends when updating the head bolts from the older "hex head" style to the newer "torx head" style. I've done this on two of my cars with no issue.
                        Question... my '86 Eta still has the original head bolts... 30 thirty years later and over 430K km... I was thinking about doing this when I do my next timing belt, as I'll be checking my valve clearance as well.

                        Honestly, if I've had no failure, should I even bother???
                        Estoguy
                        1986 BMW 325, Alpenweiss ~ "Elsa"

                        Need a photographer, come visit my site: http://estoguy.wix.com/unique-perspectives

                        Comment

                        • nando
                          Moderator
                          • Nov 2003
                          • 34827

                          #13
                          are they hex bolts? the BMW repair was only for the hex bolts. Either way though, if they haven't broken I wouldn't worry about it.
                          Build thread

                          Bimmerlabs

                          Comment

                          • 101
                            Mod Crazy
                            • Jul 2011
                            • 764

                            #14
                            I respectfully disagree on that point, nando. $hit happens. Just want to share my personal experience ...

                            At 220K miles the previous owner of my '87 IS had two of these bolts fail. One bolt head drifted harmlessly to one of the oil drain holes and stayed there. The other bolt head got wedged between the camshaft and the head, destroying both and ultimately hydro locking the motor. Game over for her. That's when I became the new owner.

                            Two other lower mileage cars in my stable also received the new head bolt treatment. Hard to believe they had not been updated previously, but I wasn't going to take any other chances.

                            It's a relatively painless job while the valve cover is off. Unless of course one of the bolt heads comes off when trying to remove it, which I guess is a possibility. And if one has already fractured, can a head gasket job be far behind?
                            101

                            The E30 collection:
                            1987 325es M52 - Schwarz / Taurus Red Sport (son #2's)
                            1987 325is - Delphin / Black Sport (son #3's)
                            1987 325i Convertible - Triple Black
                            1989 325iX Coupe - Diamondschwarz / Black Comfort
                            1990 325iX Coupe - Sterling Silver / Grey Sport

                            1981 Fiat 124 Spider 2000 - Green / Tan
                            1998 Volvo V70 GLT - White / Tan
                            1998 Volvo S70 T5 manual - White / Taupe
                            2001 Ford Windstar - Silver / Grey (parts hauler)
                            2006 Lexus GX470 - White / Tan (tow rig)

                            Comment

                            • redlightpete
                              Wrencher
                              • Mar 2012
                              • 260

                              #15
                              I had one of the hex heads break off and didn't do anything about it. About two weeks later the head cracked right below the broken bolt. I think it is very likely that having zero clamping force in that area was the cause of the head crack.

                              Comment

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