rear main seal

[zaq123]

can someone confirm that rear main kit pn 11142247867 will work with M20?
realoem is listing this as correct part but retailers do not list e30 M20.

https://www.ecstuning.com/b-genuine-...t/11142247867/

[ForcedFirebird]

The pic is showing an m20 kit, but the part number cross references to several engines for some reason.

I never use the kit, rather re-use the housing and insert a new seal/gasket.

[zaq123]

The pic is showing an m20 kit, but the part number cross references to several engines for some reason.

I never use the kit, rather re-use the housing and insert a new seal/gasket.

I can get the entire kit for the same price as just the seal (old stock). Just want to make sure it will work.

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_4304

when installing the seal: do you guys use something like Drei Bond or similar on the steel gasket? I guess my '90 has older version of the seal (large tab on the housing and a composite gasket, not steel).

[ForcedFirebird]

I coat the stock gasket with "The Right Stuff", an elastomeric made by permatex (similar to Hondabond etc, not RTV).

We have had good luck with the aftermarket brands of RMS's. IF the crank has a groove worn in it, the brand won't matter. To remedy a groove we remove the spring in the back of the seal, unscrew it, clip ~4-6 coils off it. This will tighten the seal on the crank a little.

[rturbo 930]

Get a Corteco RMS for $15. Not hard to install. I was actually surprised how easily the cam and crank seals were to install.

[zaq123]

I coat the stock gasket with "The Right Stuff", an elastomeric made by permatex (similar to Hondabond etc, not RTV).

We have had good luck with the aftermarket brands of RMS's. IF the crank has a groove worn in it, the brand won't matter. To remedy a groove we remove the spring in the back of the seal, unscrew it, clip ~4-6 coils off it. This will tighten the seal on the crank a little.

interesting idea about the seal. Got me thinking about oem seal and if it will be tight enough, my crank gas small grove in it.
From what I've read, BMW only supply new style of RMS, springless type. I know it has to be installed properly so its lip won't fold hence that white plastic installation cap it comes with.

[digger]

the new aluminium housing /cover is different visually to the old ones.

i doubt it matters REALOEM calls up xxxxx867 for e30 to

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_4304

http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=11_0145

i just reuse the old cover and if needed press the seal in abit more or less to ride on fresh part of the shaft. the OE seal has no internal spring like aftermarket ones, it is a fancy seal

[zaq123]

I have small grove in my crank seal, nothing crazy but it's there.
Looks like this crank had regular elastomeric(spring) seal on it, based on the wear pattern.

New BMW seal, PTFE seal (no spring) has totally different profile and wear pattern. Obviously PTFE is much better technology but I'm not sure if it will work with current wear grove. Looks like PTFE has wider wear pattern and slightly tapered due to the seal profile.

What do you guys think? Would you still use PTFE?



PTFE profile wear pattern :





Elastomeric seal profile and pattern:

[ForcedFirebird]

Digger, those part numbers are the cover/housing only. The part number in the OP is the seal already pressed in the cover, with bolts/gasket included. The OP part number also cross-references to other models, so it's not specific to the m20.

zaq123, If you install the OE non-sprung gasket, you will want to move the seal as Digger suggested, but as I mentioned we have been using aftermarket for years without issue. Moving the seal kind of defeats the purpose of purchasing one already pressed in.

[digger]

Digger, those part numbers are the cover/housing only. The part number in the OP is the seal already pressed in the cover, with bolts/gasket included. The OP part number also cross-references to other models, so it's not specific to the m20.

zaq123, If you install the OE non-sprung gasket, you will want to move the seal as Digger suggested, but as I mentioned we have been using aftermarket for years without issue. Moving the seal kind of defeats the purpose of purchasing one already pressed in.

you cant get housing alone anymore unless you find an old p/n and old stock it looks like, those part numbers are the full kit in question according to ECS