JT's M20 Build Thread

[JehTehsus]

Yeah, I was mucking about today with some sheet metal we had kicking around, I think if I just go pick up a decent size aluminium sheet I can cut and fold it. Anchor at the bottom edge of the battery tray by the shock tower and at the top just above the ecm wire harness hole. That little bit of extra space makes all the difference. More I look at firewall piece the more I think it is going to turn into a nightmare, it just isn't anywhere near flat enough.

Good point about rubber grommets, I didn't even think about that.

[JehTehsus]

Not the most productive weekend, but I did have to wheel the car out of the shop. I did get the coils more or less mounted (needs paint and a couple more mounting holes), ended up using some steel we had kicking around. Need to add a brace of some sort at the top but overall I think I am pretty happy with it:










Tapped some 7/16 AN 4 holes in the TB as well, these will end up holding the IAT and vac pickup for the vacuum station:

[mikey.antonakakis]

Didn't read the whole thread in detail, but did your valve cover go on alright with those head studs? My head studs protrude a similar amount, and while chasing down an oil leak I realized the baffle plate in my early-model valve cover is hitting the tops of the studs... No wonder I had leaks. Trying to figure out how to handle it, move to late model valve cover?

[JehTehsus]

Didn't read the whole thread in detail, but did your valve cover go on alright with those head studs? My head studs protrude a similar amount, and while chasing down an oil leak I realized the baffle plate in my early-model valve cover is hitting the tops of the studs... No wonder I had leaks. Trying to figure out how to handle it, move to late model valve cover?

I'll have to take a closer look. I had it tightened down and it looked fine, but I haven't run it yet.

That said, given some of the challenges I have had with other bits from IE it would not surprise me in the slightest.

What exactly is the baffle in there for? Preventing too much oil seeping out the valve cover vent?

[mikey.antonakakis]

I'll have to take a closer look. I had it tightened down and it looked fine, but I haven't run it yet.

That said, given some of the challenges I have had with other bits from IE it would not surprise me in the slightest.

What exactly is the baffle in there for? Preventing too much oil seeping out the valve cover vent?

Not sure what it's for, but that would make sense. It wouldn't help me a ton to pull it, it's less than a mm thick and I think I have more interference than that... I don't remember where I got my studs, I've had them for quite a while, but there's a good chance mine came from IE too.

[digger]

The baffles are to stop liquid oil escaping, normally only want vapours going into the intake or catch can

[JehTehsus]

Not sure what it's for, but that would make sense. It wouldn't help me a ton to pull it, it's less than a mm thick and I think I have more interference than that... I don't remember where I got my studs, I've had them for quite a while, but there's a good chance mine came from IE too.

I'll take a close look at it this weekend. If it does interference I guess I'm modifying the valve cover.

[ForcedFirebird]

Personally have installed many sets of m20 studs at work, and there was only a couple of times I encountered the baffle/stud clearance issue. Once was an eta that had the head shaved well past factory indicators, the other time was the client used Mini 4v studs and shaved the bottoms off. Back before you could purchase an m20 head stud kit, it was about $400 to piece meal a set, but could purchase two sets of Mini stud kits for less than $200 and have spares (10 bolts on 4cyl, 14 on 6-shooters = 6extra for less $$).

[JehTehsus]

Personally have installed many sets of m20 studs at work, and there was only a couple of times I encountered the baffle/stud clearance issue. Once was an eta that had the head shaved well past factory indicators, the other time was the client used Mini 4v studs and shaved the bottoms off. Back before you could purchase an m20 head stud kit, it was about $400 to piece meal a set, but could purchase two sets of Mini stud kits for less than $200 and have spares (10 bolts on 4cyl, 14 on 6-shooters = 6extra for less $$).

Good to know. My block has been decked a touch, which I suppose could contribute if there is an issue. Overall I think I am actually happy with the studs, even if I do end up having to modify valve cover. Rather know I got them torqued properly than have studs that are flush with the nuts.

[mikey.antonakakis]

Personally have installed many sets of m20 studs at work, and there was only a couple of times I encountered the baffle/stud clearance issue. Once was an eta that had the head shaved well past factory indicators, the other time was the client used Mini 4v studs and shaved the bottoms off. Back before you could purchase an m20 head stud kit, it was about $400 to piece meal a set, but could purchase two sets of Mini stud kits for less than $200 and have spares (10 bolts on 4cyl, 14 on 6-shooters = 6extra for less $$).

I have a feeling that's how my kit came, pieced together from Mini kits. It at least sounds familiar. I probably got them 2011 or 2012.

Thoughts on replacing studs one at at time? Drain the block of coolant first? Just do it? Don't ever do it? Would be nice to fix the leak without having to pull the head...

[ForcedFirebird]

Absolutely you can do one at a time, but is it hurting anything?

[mikey.antonakakis]

Absolutely you can do one at a time, but is it hurting anything?

Just leaky, that's all. I just pulled the trans to replace all the seals and did the oil pan gasket while it was out, so it hurts me emotionally that it's still leaving spots haha.

I might try doubling up gaskets first. Probably find a new VC while I'm at it, mine's a bit warped now.

Sorry for the sidetrack!

[JehTehsus]

Didn't read the whole thread in detail, but did your valve cover go on alright with those head studs? My head studs protrude a similar amount, and while chasing down an oil leak I realized the baffle plate in my early-model valve cover is hitting the tops of the studs... No wonder I had leaks. Trying to figure out how to handle it, move to late model valve cover?

Took a very quick look this long weekend, valve cover seems to sit OK on top of the gasket, I did not torque it down. That said, I may run into issues, because I tried it without a gasket and it definitely sits up off the head surface maybe a hair... with the gasket in place though I am not sure if this will be an issue or not (uncertain of compressed thickness and I didn't want to torque valve cover down), but I do believe the studs are making contact and holding the cover up a touch. I wonder if some very selectively drilled holes will significantly hamper the baffle/make a difference in terms of liquid oil reaching the breather hose. I have a catch can that will be right there anyway.

In other news, waiting on parts. COVID shipping fun times, UPS has apparently had one of my packages in the city for an entire week, but it is still 'delayed due to events beyond our control'. At least until Friday, when they updated it to 'delayed due to severe weather'. It was lightly raining. Not sure if there is a frowning, flat palms up emoji somewhere here or not but that is exactly how I feel at the moment.

This did show up from Massive Lee though (and ahead of schedule, hard to believe):


So once my new tilton MC's/balance bar arrive I will be pulling the booster and getting it in.

Also, the lady realized I apparently don't have enough to do with my car build (you know, waiting on parts and all that) so I have been enlisted in the caretaking of these little buggers:



Wish me luck.

[whodwho]

That Massive bracket is a quality piece, you will like it 8^)

I haven't seen many running it, I recreated an old thread that was on tech and fixed the pics - https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...f-r-conversion

I went with the offset one for the extra room

[JehTehsus]

That Massive bracket is a quality piece, you will like it 8^)

I haven't seen many running it, I thought I had a thread on r3v but looks like it was on tech - http://www.e30techarchive.com/showthread.php&t=120545.htm

I went with the offset one for the extra room

....

This is great, thanks. Another reference should make my install even more painless, not that it seems very complicated from what I was looking at.

It definitely strikes me as very solid, I am looking forward to getting it in. Maybe even this weekend if the MCs and other bits arrive.

What was your issue with the feel on the 0.625 and 0.7 with stock brakes? I was planning on running stock for a little while at least, I ended up settling on a 0.625 and 0.75 tilton, was planning on using the 7:1 pedal ratio offered in the massive kit. Based on some of your comments in another thread I am worried this is going to be really unpleasant to drive, and I may have to adjust front MC for now. At this point I am definitely not going to be on the track, just street cruising while I get everything together and running.