Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

No crank after head gasket replacement

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

    No crank after head gasket replacement

    Hi all, I have an 86 325e that I've been trying to bring back to life. It had a blown head gasket, so I recently replaced it. While I was working on that I also replaced the alternator. Prior to this work, the engine would start just fine, but now that it's all put back together I've got a no-crank situation. It's got a new battery that measures 12.3 volts, the rest of the electronics come on just fine when I turn the key, and I can hear the fuel pump whirring, but there's no action from the starter. I've jumped pins 11 and 14 on the diagnostic plug and all that happens is I hear the click of the solenoid, but the starter doesn't budge.

    As far as I can tell my grounds are in good shape. With my multimeter I've got continuity between the alternator ground post and a distant point on the chassis and continuity between the engine block and the chassis. I feel like at this point my next step is to pull the starter, which, in hindsight, sure would have been easier while the head was off. It seems weird that a starter that was working prior to me disassembling the head from the block all of a sudden stopped working while the head was off. Anybody have any other ideas what could be causing this no crank before I start trying to get the starter out?

    #2
    While not technically drained, your voltage is a bit low so may want to put the battery on a charger and try again once it’s topped up. I have had startup issues at 12.2-12.3V before.

    Another tactic you can always try is the age old method of smacking the starter with a hammer (or in this case, broomstick/wratchet extension and a mallet)...starter on my ‘72 GTV is starting to go and I have to employ this method frequently. Not the classiest, but gets the job done if the starter gear is starting to go

    Comment


      #3
      Ok, I'll give both of those a shot. I think I'm also going to take all my grounds apart today and clean them up. I was thinking yesterday that just because I have continuity doesn't necessarily mean that they can carry a lot of load. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

      Comment


        #4
        Update: no luck after filing down the grounds, charging the battery, and tapping with a broomstick. Solenoid still just clicks. So I'll pull the starter over the next couple days. Seems like a strange coincidence that it died at the exact time that I was working on the head gasket, but I suppose stranger things have happened.

        I'll post an update once I get the new starter installed.

        Comment


          #5
          Are you sure your cam timing is right and you aren't having a no crank because of piston to valve contact?

          IG @turbovarg
          '91 318is, M20 turbo
          [CoTM: 4-18]
          '94 525iT slicktop, M50B30 + S362SX-E, 600WHP DD or bust
          '93 RX-7 FD3S

          Comment


            #6
            Good thought, I had the same idea since that would explain why the problem only started after the head removal. But my timing marks are lined up and I'm able to turn the crank over through several cycles without any difficulty. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

            Comment


              #7
              Did you disconnect the wiring to the starter? If the black/yellow wire is connected in the wrong spot, the starter will do exactly that....

              john@m20guru.com
              Links:
              Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

              Comment


                #8
                I'll be darned. That was it! I don't remember disconnecting it, but I must have while I was troubleshooting and then put it back in the wrong spot. Thanks ForcedFirebird, and everybody else who weighed in. This eta just started for the first time in 6 years. Sent from my Pixel 3a using Tapatalk

                Comment

                Working...
                X