OEM Headbolts no ETA, people still using Metric Blue bolts?

[Zambuzan]

Only thing available right now is Victor Reinz headbolts... other OEM suppliers also have no ETA.

Are people still using/recommending Metric Blue bolts from McCaster? This will not be going in a boosted application..

Just to verity, which bolt is it exactly?

https://www.mcmaster.com/91502A239/ or https://www.mcmaster.com/91303A306/

Any recommendations would be appreciated!

[roguetoaster]

There was a thread on this 1-2 months ago. Pretty sure there is no good reason to go away from a OE type of bolt in a stock config.

[Zambuzan]

There was a thread on this 1-2 months ago. Pretty sure there is no good reason to go away from a OE type of bolt in a stock config.

Right, totally agree. I'm only asking because I've read several unpleasant reviews regarding the quality Victor Reinz headbolts.

I'm in a time crunch and would hate to order VR bolts just to find out they're somehow compromised (bent, uneven, etc.)

[e30austin]

VR is the only manufacturer offered by my vendor. used them countless times without an issue.

[Zambuzan]

VR is the only manufacturer offered by my vendor. used them countless times without an issue.

Is this in recent memory? Just trying to gauge the timeline on the other reviews that I’ve read...

Do you apply lube to the threads, similar to ARP’s install instructions?

Thanks.

[citizen_insane]

Is this in recent memory? Just trying to gauge the timeline on the other reviews that I’ve read...

Do you apply lube to the threads, similar to ARP’s install instructions?

Thanks.

I would do it how the factory manual suggests doing it. Might also be a good idea to chase the threads in the block. Changing the friction between the bolt and the threaded hole can have a huge impact on bolt stretch, up to like 30%. This might be one of the reasons people have bad reviews of the bolts. If you oil a torque to yield bolted joint that wasn't designed for it, you shouldn't be surprised when the bolt snaps due to excessive strain.

[ForcedFirebird]

VR is the only manufacturer offered by my vendor. used them countless times without an issue.

Same here. A long time ago someone posted that the VR bolts weren't straight by rolling them, but, I have been using them on a professional level for 13yr, countless m20's, never had a failure.

[roguetoaster]

Right, totally agree. I'm only asking because I've read several unpleasant reviews regarding the quality Victor Reinz headbolts.

I'm in a time crunch and would hate to order VR bolts just to find out they're somehow compromised (bent, uneven, etc.)

There is no way any of us can actually tell you if a set of VR bolts you get would be good or bad. VR may have several suppliers, and the product you end up with could be current or years old.

Small sample size, but all four times I've installed a cylinder head I used VR over the years, and I've not read of any problems with their bolts in BMW applications.

Normally, head bolts call for a super light application of 30w/specialist lube. YMMV, follow whatever manual you have says & what the hardware mfr suggests.

[digger]

If anyone is going to use a grade 12.9 generic socket head cap screw or similar then get plain black and remember re torque after a period of time before running and after heat cyling the engine some

[ForcedFirebird]

If anyone is going to use a grade 12.9 generic socket head cap screw or similar then get plain black and remember re torque after a period of time before running and after heat cyling the engine some

...and same with ARP's.

[bmwman91]

I had a bunch of conversations with Jim Rowe at Metric Mechanic about head bolts over the last few years. They used VR bolts for quite a while, but ultimately stopped due to manufacturing inconsistencies indicated in some tests they did that indicated a wide variation in stretch / clamp force between bolts. They had similar things to say about "OEM" head bolts, and ARP is their go-to now. For a stock rebuild it is likely a non-issue and one should follow either the procedure in the E30 repair manual, or if VR supplies them then use those. VR seems fine for a stock engine.

The factory procedures I have seen for E30 engines all seem to be "initial torque X Nm, wait B minutes, then turn Y degrees, then Z degrees (sometimes after getting to operating temperature)". In that case, thread lube probably adds a lot less risk of issues than when using a straight torque spec. I'd be pretty careful about cleaning / chasing the threads in the block, and unless they are really gunked up with crud, I would just get a brass bristle bottle brush that fits the holes and run it in a drill to clean them out, and then use some brake cleaner or compressed air.

[15Michaeljoseph]

I went through this with my head rebuild a couple years back. Ended up feeding into my fears of getting a potentially lame set of head bolts and just got a set of ARP studs. Overkill for a bone stock rebuild, but the peace of mind is worth it imo. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

[Vincenze]

There are also AJUSA and Febi bolts.

https://www.ecstuning.com/BMW-E30-325i-M20_2.5L/Search/SiteSearch/11121726478/

Elring: https://www.eeuroparts.com/Parts/435...lt-Set-820229/

[nando]

IMO, Metric Blues were never actually acceptable for a head bolt. But they were "cheap" and had the same thread pitch, so people thought they were upgrading because they weren't TTY (even though in reality, TTY bolts are superior for head clamping which is why every OE manufacturer on earth uses them).

[shawmcbigdis]

I was having this same problem. I ended up with a set of VR bolts, and checked them all against a straight edge. All seemed fine. I dipped my finger in some 30w oil and rubbed the bolts and installed them. Everything seemed fine. 22lB's, then 90, then 90.

I got the bolts just last week, and installed them yesterday. But as others have said, based on stock and whatnot, who knows when or where my bolts were made compared to a set you might get.