Another E30 M30 Swap Thread, this time with an 84 318i

[the imitator]

Minor updates.

We have the suspension up and floating, some minor buttoning up to do; Get the diff in, E-brake cables, rear and front brakes. The rear subframe was a hassle!! but we managed, and the front went it like butter,very few bolts to organize/track down.

Wiring is coming up soon, battery relocation, prepping the c101, Perhaps run a late model cluster with oil level sensor.

Here's the front up with the ground controls and new poly offset CABs.
I ca officially say this early model now has a 51mm strut conversion, and rear disc brake conversion. yippy?









The rear end wasn't AS smooth going in, the rear subframe fitting from a 1999 to a 1984 took some bad words, we didnt have a lot of give since I am using condor subframe mounts, so it took teamwork.

Here's a small video that shows the effort it takes to install the condor rear subframe mounts


Running brake lines before installing subframe


Making sure we are ready for the next procedure..

Confirmed.

[the imitator]

Camera was dead most the time, More parts are up, and everything fits.







yippy

[the imitator]

To the point where I need to button up some very minor suspension items, adjust the ebrake, bleed the brakes, throw in a diff etc.

I decided to go with a 3.73 with the g265.. should be interesting, I havent really checked final drive ratio, if anyone can Chime in here that would be awesome! The g265 gets new seals, and a g260 output flange swap.
After I drop that package into the engine bay, I will purchase an e36 325i drive shaft as I need a longer front shaft to fit on my Z3 back half.

My wiring harness will be cake, its already done for me, I just need to a c101 plug to replace the square unit in my early model and we are a few plugs away from plug n play.

upon further inspection it also appears I'll need to drill and grommet a fresh hole on the passenger side of the engine bay, in order to feed the 0 gauge wiring to the trunk, On my e30, There is no provision for the relocation kit as found on other models.

Some rust to deal with too, a portion of the driverside floorboard, and a 3X7 inch area on the passenger side firewall behind the battery.

that should be all

[marshallnoise]

So sexy.

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[the imitator]

So sexy.

Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I337 using Tapatalk

Im getting more and more excited, have a couple more items on the way too, 2.7 Lock to lock z3 steering rack, and a piece of shiny scrap metal from mishimoto ;)

[marshallnoise]

Im getting more and more excited, have a couple more items on the way too, 2.7 Lock to lock z3 steering rack, and a piece of shiny scrap metal from mishimoto ;)

It's funny you posted about the radiator. I have a new core support ready to go in the car and I got to thinking about cutting it up to put in a 16" X 26" (ignore this) Griffen radiator.

Which Mishimoto did you get? The E28 one?

Edit: I took more measurements and it looks like the better fitting one would be 15.5" x 22" x 3" for an LS3. Should cool the shit out of the m30.

[the imitator]

There was a guy on a separate site that had a few pictures of his removable core support, dont think its legal, but dang would sure make working on an e30 easier.
I went with an e36 m3 unit, its a half inch thicker, and I'm using position 3, it will be a squeeze, possibly a small grind but she should work! Once I go wasted spark, my distributor delete plate will open up tons more room too.

I understand their isnt a NEED for a bigger radiator, but the options are funky.

A. buy a used e28 radiator in unknown condition aside from cosmetic looks, who knows what kind of stop leak/acid water/portland reservoir filthy deposit/green goo shit, that wants to ruin my day.

B. Buy a brand new OEM unit for $150 plus shipping and still have plastic reservoirs.

C. spend an extra 50 bucks for a lifetime warranty and a modern day product.

I feel I did the logical thing.. lol spend that $$$!@#$%^:dot:

It's funny you posted about the radiator. I have a new core support ready to go in the car and I got to thinking about cutting it up to put in a 16" X 26" Griffen radiator.

Which Mishimoto did you get? The E28 one?

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[glnr13]

A half inch is a lot of space to make for the m30 haha

I'm running the e28 rad and supposedly position 3. Could be 2 but I ordered position 3 so I'm unsure. I only have 3mm clearance between the radiator and distributor.

[marshallnoise]

There was a guy on a separate site that had a few pictures of his removable core support, dont think its legal, but dang would sure make working on an e30 easier.
I went with an e36 m3 unit, its a half inch thicker, and I'm using position 3, it will be a squeeze, possibly a small grind but she should work! Once I go wasted spark, my distributor delete plate will open up tons more room too.

I understand their isnt a NEED for a bigger radiator, but the options are funky.

A. buy a used e28 radiator in unknown condition aside from cosmetic looks, who knows what kind of stop leak/acid water/portland reservoir filthy deposit/green goo shit, that wants to ruin my day.

B. Buy a brand new OEM unit for $150 plus shipping and still have plastic reservoirs.

C. spend an extra 50 bucks for a lifetime warranty and a modern day product.

I feel I did the logical thing.. lol spend that $$$!@#$%^:dot:

As I understand it, the core support has no structural impact on the chassis so there isn't any reason to not make it removable. The odds are of a cop knowing you made it removable are slim anyway. I will be making mine removable for sure.

You did make the right choice on the radiator though. No reason to go through the pain of replacing it when the plastic cracks. Such a lame material to use.

A half inch is a lot of space to make for the m30 haha

I'm running the e28 rad and supposedly position 3. Could be 2 but I ordered position 3 so I'm unsure. I only have 3mm clearance between the radiator and distributor.

And even though everyone and their mother swears by the e28 radiator and it all clears just fine, I simply hate the idea of having it stuffed in there like that. To me, if I can do a little modding to the core support, it would be worth it to get a 3" thick aluminum radiator in there.

[glnr13]

yeah, no joke, the e28 rad is crammed in there.

[the imitator]

I would have to make the assumption you may be in 2, franks m30 was in position 2.5 and had a half inch of clearance.

After looking at pictures of position 2 and the e30 m30 swap "roll call" thread I feel confident it will fit, even if it does take effort to get in there.

heres a quote out of his swap PDF
"Actually, I drilled a hole right in between the two holes there and made a position 2
½. No, it doesn’t compromise its strength. I actually have about ½” clearance from the distributor to
the radiator. I’m compromising 50/50 weight distribution by not going all the way back, but it’s not
going to make that much of a difference.
If you decide to go any FURTHER back than position 2, then know that you might have clearance
issues and will need to bang the firewall back like 3-4 inches and in this position, you’d maintain a
more factory weight distribution."

A half inch is a lot of space to make for the m30 haha

I'm running the e28 rad and supposedly position 3. Could be 2 but I ordered position 3 so I'm unsure. I only have 3mm clearance between the radiator and distributor.

[the imitator]

Agreed, I think a DIY should be done in the future, no WAY its that hard.

As I understand it, the core support has no structural impact on the chassis so there isn't any reason to not make it removable. The odds are of a cop knowing you made it removable are slim anyway. I will be making mine removable for sure.

You did make the right choice on the radiator though. No reason to go through the pain of replacing it when the plastic cracks. Such a lame material to use.



And even though everyone and their mother swears by the e28 radiator and it all clears just fine, I simply hate the idea of having it stuffed in there like that. To me, if I can do a little modding to the core support, it would be worth it to get a 3" thick aluminum radiator in there.

[marshallnoise]

Agreed, I think a DIY should be done in the future, no WAY its that hard.

I think I may be the guy to do that. Corvallis has done a great job with cooling using the e28 setup, but it would be nice to have an alternative out there using a legitimate aluminum radiator with some beef to it.

[glnr13]

franks post and other people's photos are what also have me thinking i have pos2. to be honest i don't mind it in pos2 right now, i have pretty easy access to sparkplug #6 and the head isn't butted up against the firewall so there's some room for the coolant hoses back there.

[the imitator]

I think I may be the guy to do that. Corvallis has done a great job with cooling using the e28 setup, but it would be nice to have an alternative out there using a legitimate aluminum radiator with some beef to it.

I'd love to see it happen, you could guarantee I'd do it.
why not use shiny door hinges so it swings out! HA! ya right...
Ya, Corvallis has done a killer job, the 10'' puller is a great idea, but damn! I wll beat my head on a wall until I can sit in hot weather and not worry.

franks post and other people's photos are what also have me thinking i have pos2. to be honest i don't mind it in pos2 right now, i have pretty easy access to sparkplug #6 and the head isn't butted up against the firewall so there's some room for the coolant hoses back there.

To be honest, it's got to be pretty nice looking being snug too! I love the looks of a late model m30 in these bays because in the 5, and 6 series you can practically fit a body in the engine bay!