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Any way to adjust the clutch engagement point?

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    #16
    Alright, I think ForcedFirebird has it. Looks like it has three spring shims. I found a pic in an old FS thread. My clutch engages about an inch from the floor right now based on rough measurement. If those extra shims are adding to the stack height, it seems like that would explain it. I'm guessing I should be looking for a ~8mm thick disc.

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      #17
      Not to add confusion but aren't there g260s with different bell housing depths ?
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        #18
        Originally posted by jeffnhiscars View Post
        Not to add confusion but aren't there g260s with different bell housing depths ?
        Yes.

        But.

        Your clutch hydraulics are mimicking the brake hydraulic procedure.

        I read these things on the internet and cannot understand why one would think the clutch acts any differently than the brakes. One does not need to change masters/caliper etc to compensate for brake wear, the same arithmetic plies for the clutch system. It's very simple. Master moves XX mm, the slave will also move yy mm based on ratio of master/slave piston sizes. xx:yy. Very simple math.

        Now extrapolate the movement, transfer that to any other BMW inline 6, and they all match. All car MFGR's follow a great rule : K.I.S.S.

        Why change something that works, and has worked for the last 30yr?
        john@m20guru.com
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        Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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          #19
          When the issue occurred on my car i could see the clutch slave just coudlnt physically push the clutch fork any further it was out of travel too early. You could move the clutch fork back and forwards between the clutch pressure plate and the clutch slave, just too much clearance and too far for the clutch slave to move.

          I have seen people extend the clutch slave pin. That's a pretty good option.

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            #20
            Originally posted by e30davie View Post
            When the issue occurred on my car i could see the clutch slave just coudlnt physically push the clutch fork any further it was out of travel too early. You could move the clutch fork back and forwards between the clutch pressure plate and the clutch slave, just too much clearance and too far for the clutch slave to move.

            I have seen people extend the clutch slave pin. That's a pretty good option.
            I have also personally made an adjustable pivot pin delta for swaps. Drill out the pivot pin hole, thread, then add a threaded rod and lock nut.

            Still doesn't "fix" the issue, but it does help.

            Take my advice with a grain of salt, but keep in mind it's probably backed by scientific evidence.
            john@m20guru.com
            Links:
            Transaction feedback: Here, here and here. Thanks :D

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