Originally posted by mattdk318i
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There's going to be a lot of torque on that bracket because of the way the mount pad is offset from the bolt pattern on the engine block... It doesn't look like it's braced well against that torque. -
Did you even read what i posted?sigpicComment
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You expect people to read that mental masturbation you post on your thread. But you dont have 5 minutes to read my "simple minded" post. I mentioned that that was one of my concerns.sigpicComment
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From your wording, it came across that you were concerned about the bolt loading rather than the bracket gusseting.Originally posted by mattdk318i View Post
After all, the stock mount arms load the bolt joints mostly in tension/compression while the one you have load them in shear. I don't think that will be a problem for the joint from the bracket to the block... I was just noting that the bracket itself may need additional gusseting to deal with the load (over time... fatigue due to dynamic loads being much higher than static loads).Comment
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I apologize, i was irritated over the mount coming out like it did. And then i felt as if you were just blatantly ignoring what i commented about. More productive posts to come.sigpicComment
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s'ok... it's the internet; schtuff happens.
Here's my take:
The torsional stiffness of the structure is related to the radius of gyration of the smallest section, which in this part is right at the "wrist" at the base of the plate that bolts to the rubber mount. Increasing the minimal dimensions of that section should be the priority for bracing.
Although if you eliminated the flat plates altogether and use round tubing instead, that would probably be better, as a cylinder is the stiffest shape going (external dimension = radius of gyration by definition)Attached FilesComment
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Not the driveline angle discussion again! Oh the horror!!Comment
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Sub'd
Can't wait to see this finishedComment
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Well, got a little bit of work done today. Felt like crap, bleck.
Heres some revised mounts, going to weld them up some time this weekend. And i got my 1940's grob bandsaw to the AC bracket/Engine mount. Now its just a AC bracket
Before its untimely demise, My german made Ruhla(mill) looked on in horror im sure.
Some finished pictures of the mounts. Whipped out some more bungs. Going to try a simpler approach this time. Ill be working on that some more in my head lol
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Seriously impressive. I'm jealous of the skills on display...
I'm worried about trying to fix my floorpans and you're fabbing like a north pole elf. Epic manliness here
Im ashamed of myself hahah I'm so far in the closet I'm finding Christmas presents. (not literally, just feel like less of a man)Comment
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Yeah, this dude got skills. Matt, I'm gay for your plasma table and computing prowess.
@driveline angle… Who gives a fuck if the driveline angle is best or not on someone else's build? Let people experiment. That's how better ideas can emerge. Not saying they do every time, but still.Originally posted by Andy.BComment
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Brake setup fun
hey guys, made a little more progress on the braking setup. The goal was to keep oem vacuum assist brakes. Since we have already covered the mounting of the booster ill start with the pedal set modification as well as the lever that mounts on the firewall.
Seemed like once i moved one thing, everything else had to be modified. Thats the fun of this i suppose.
Custom made plate, just bolt it to the factory location and drill the remaining 2 holes. When i was prototyping this i cut the hole a little large. And it looks like a neanderthal with a butter knife cut it out.
Once the plate was installed i was able to get my dimensions for the lower bracket. While i was making the bracket i realized it kinda looks like dickbutt lulz.
Heres a inside shot of it, again...pardon the horrible cut out. You can also see my modified throttle linkage. Which ill cover next.
The throttle linkage is aluminum, I was able to cut a section of it out, once i did that the stock location wouldnt work. So my next job was to cover the vacant hole that the clutch cylinder was removed from. Luckily i was able to design a bracket that would kill 2 birds with one stone.
The bracket is a sandwich of 2 pieces of steel, So it can be left this way or welded it. Its pretty damned tight once the bolt is snug. Plus it gave me a little bit of wiggle room.
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The hole for the clutch cylinder looks a little rough because it was a guess and i ended up having to wallow it a bit more. Im going to try to figure out a boot solution to keep the heat and dirt out. That comes later though.
After the throttle was squared away i was able to start messing with the clutch. This was a bit more of a pain.
I started with modifying the clutch pedal tab over a bit. Using a new tab i burned out. The stock one was removed. Once i had the cylinder mounted to the tab i could figure out how to make my spacing bracket. While keeping the brake lever/rod in mind.
The tab is a bit twisted, i straightened it before it was welded.
The brake lever was moved to the left side of the pedal. Due to clearance i had to "underhang" the bracket. Once its painted i dont think it will look that bad.
Note, you have to trim the pedal bucket where the factory clutch cylinder location was. This is needed to clear the modified brake lever location.
Bracket welded on and pedal painted.
Even though its tight, nothing binds,rubs or chaffs!
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Once all of that unfun stuff was done i was able to modify my pushrod length
Sorry about the crappy pics, ive not got a S5, so the pics should improve vastly.
Once all of it was completed i cleaned it up and ran the brake lines(FML!!)
Zach and i decided to try out the e46 steering knuckles. Took 2 and made one! There is a sleeve pressed into both of the knuckles. So the weld is not taking any sheer load. Only as a retainment to ensure they dont come apart.
Heres the knuckle, (during cleaning)
Heres pics of the mounts before welding and paint.
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