*Updated & only kinda shitty now!* The definitive 5.0/302 swap guide

[The Dark Side of Will]

Cheers for the advice. You have a T5 hey? I wonder how different that is to a TKO600.

I need about 60mm of travel for my clutch to work. currently I'm getting 30mm with a 7/8'' bore slave. If i did my maths right I believe a 1/2 should get me to that 60mm travel. or am I doing this all wrong? haha

5/8" should double the travel.

.875^2 = 0.765625

0.765625/2 = 0.3828125

Sqrt(0.3828125) = 0.619 ~ 0.625 = 5/8"

[Hooffenstein HD]

I guess it's time for me to read through this entire thread.

[e30_302]

Step 1: remove donor engine
Step 2: install into E30

You're half way done!

[Hooffenstein HD]

Step 1: remove donor engine
Step 2: install into E30

You're half way done!

Got to look into what heads it has, and if it needs better valve springs. Probably just crappy E7 heads, so I may be looking for some GT40P heads.

Trying to find a cheap distributor and single plane carb manifold so I can throw one of the many 650CFM Holley we have around the place on it. Also need to change the water pump to forward rotation and timing cover to suit.

[jalopi]

Since you're going carb you can use the garagistic pedal box + stock gas pedal +m42 throttle cable

Look into getting a HEI distributor, really cleans up the engine bay & is easy to wire up

[e30_302]

By the time you get a set of GT40 heads and put better springs in them, you might as well get a used set of aluminum heads.

[Hooffenstein HD]

Unfortunately being in Australia, there isn't an abundance of cheap performance parts available. I'd be looking at $2,500 for decent aluminium heads. Or $1,200 ish for pro comp + machining and assembly with quality parts.

The reason I wanted to switch over to GT40P is because I want to throw some parts at it; headers, roller rockers, cam, intake manifold, valve springs etc and I don't know if what works on E7's will work on GT40/aftermarket aluminium heads when I'm upgrading it sometime down the track. I'd hate to be buying everything twice.

Edit: After more research, it would seem only GT40P heads have specific parts and that's the headers due to different spark plug angle. Too easy. May just get a mild port clean up on the E7's in that case.

[drift e302]

After market aluminium heads are well worth it in my opinion. from memory mine where around $2g for afr 165's and that pedal box is for left hand drive only =(

[drift e302]

Back to my clutch problems... would i be right in saying that a 3/4 bore master travelling 38mm is only pushing my 7/8 slave travel only 18mm. somethings not right there hey?

by my calculations my slave should be travelling around 34mm as my slave is 12% bigger than my master

[The Dark Side of Will]

You should be seeing about 28mm of travel from the slave.

(0.750/2)^2 = .140625
(0.875/2)^2 = .19140625

.19140625 / .140625 = 1.36

The 7/8 slave is 36% bigger than the 3/4 master.

[drift e302]

thanks!

So yeh, im getting nowhere near that. any ideas on what could be wrong?

I've bleed the system so many times. no air no leaks.

[jalopi]

So there's two holes in the clutch fork, right? The rosehill kit puts your pushrod into the hole closest to the bellhousing, yes? If not that might be part of the problem.

I think you need an aftermarket slave cylinder guy. Either that or somehow rig an e36 slave up, I know they can use the stock cylinders.

The other option is to keep the e30 master and switch to a datsun 280z or zx (can't remember which), I think that's the combo e30302 is using.

[e30_302]

I'm using whatever came in the rosehill kit for the T5 hydro conversion. Works like a charm. Stock E30 master.

[jalopi]

well fuck me then.

maybe it's eurotrash that's using the e30 master + datsun slave? hardly ever hear from him

[Stvstr]

I'm using a 3/4" Nissan slave with the e30 master on my T5. Fabbed a bracket and had to drill a hole in the clutch fork closer to the bell housing. I think it moves about 30 - 33 mm and works great.