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    No Start Issues

    Hello everyone,

    I recently saved a 1988 325i from a visit to the local junkyard. It has been sitting since around 2014, as you can imagine it does not start. As a precaution, I replaced the battery immediately. Now, when attempting to start the car, it just cranks. Here is what I have done so far:

    I pulled the fuel hose at the rail, and no fuel is coming at while cranking. Next, I pulled the hose between the tank and the filter, and tried starting again. Still no fuel. From what I’ve read on a few of the forums is this could be the pump. Almost everywhere recommends “jumping” the fuel pump relay with a short wire. I tried jumping a small wire I have laying around from the 87 to 30 - nothing happens. I don’t hear the pump running or anything. I tried with the key off, and in each position - still nothing. Is this a sign my pump is bad? Or is there something else I am missing? Could it be a bad relay? Should it be clicking when I do this?

    I have also read that the anti-theft function in the radio can prevent a car from starting? But then the alarm would sound and lights would flash if i tried to start the car too many times, and well, no alarms or flashing yet. Thanks everyone

    #2
    Jump the pump relay (green one) Check voltage at the pump connector if you have battery voltage then your pump is seized due to long time no work, google how to get to the pump get it up and give it some wiggling and smacking that might bring it back to life.

    Comment


      #3
      As I recall, the ECU wants to see a crank signal before turning on the pump. Start with getting a wiring diagram here http://wedophones.com/Manuals/BMW/

      Do not delay replacing the timing belt. If that breaks, valves hit pistons and gets expensive. I know you want to hear it run, but after sitting the timing belts get brittle.
      2004 525i Manual - 1985 325E Coupe Manual

      Comment


        #4
        I managed to directly hook up the battery to the fuel pump, and it didn’t do a thing. I pulled it out and it is pretty corroded. I think the strainer broke off in the tank, so I’m going to have to do some fishing. Thank you for the advice, and thanks for the link for the diagram, I will look into that.

        I will see about the timing belt, I would really like to hear it run before I invest any more into the car, but it’s a scary thought to lose the engine from the beginning. I think that may be something out of my league to replace. Anyone ever paid to have that done? I’m guessing it’s pretty expensive considering everything that has to be pulled.

        Comment


          #5
          Originally posted by Sreihg View Post
          I managed to directly hook up the battery to the fuel pump, and it didn’t do a thing. I pulled it out and it is pretty corroded. I think the strainer broke off in the tank, so I’m going to have to do some fishing. Thank you for the advice, and thanks for the link for the diagram, I will look into that.

          I will see about the timing belt, I would really like to hear it run before I invest any more into the car, but it’s a scary thought to lose the engine from the beginning. I think that may be something out of my league to replace. Anyone ever paid to have that done? I’m guessing it’s pretty expensive considering everything that has to be pulled.
          If the pump was running ok before, Try this:
          I once revived a pump by pouring light oil in the suction hole and take a small screwdriver and carefully try to give the little plastic gear a couple of turns then apply voltage it should work.

          Comment


            #6
            My guess the tank maybe corroded inside also. Grit and old fuel will kill injectors. Just heads up while replacing the fuel pump. I’d replace the relays at the same time.

            You might be able to pull the covers and check timing belt condition for starting purposes.

            I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
            @Zakspeed_US

            Comment


              #7
              Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
              You might be able to pull the covers and check timing belt condition for starting purposes.
              This is good advice. Many E30s have ended up in junk yards due to snapped timing belts (that's how I got my 5-speed swap!) Unless you know it "ran when parked," verifying that the timing belt is intact will keep you from wasting a lot of time if you're not up for an engine rebuild.

              1992 325i Cabrio
              1988 320i Touring
              2000 M5
              1977 530i
              2015 328i - Euro Delivery/Performance Center Delivery
              BMWCCA
              E30CCA

              Comment


                #8
                Thank you all for the replies. I decided to go down the rabbit hole and started replacing a lot of parts, including fuel pump. A lot of the fuel lines are in questionable condition, some of the coolant hoses are very plastic-y, and I discovered the heater core valve is all sorts of messed up. I just received the parts for changing the timing belt, water pump, and some of the other "while i'm at it".

                Originally posted by moatilliatta View Post
                My guess the tank maybe corroded inside also. Grit and old fuel will kill injectors. Just heads up while replacing the fuel pump. I’d replace the relays at the same time.
                Should I consider replacing the tank then? It is a rusty color on the inside, but I figured with fresh fuel, new lines, and rebuilt injectors, I should be good? I'm not super knowledgeable about this, though. Still, dropping the tank seems like a big job.

                Originally posted by cory58 View Post
                This is good advice. Many E30s have ended up in junk yards due to snapped timing belts (that's how I got my 5-speed swap!) Unless you know it "ran when parked," verifying that the timing belt is intact will keep you from wasting a lot of time if you're not up for an engine rebuild.
                Yeah, definitely don't want to do an engine rebuild. That is probably well beyond my skill set lol.

                Comment


                  #9
                  Droping the tank is probably a lot easier than may other jobs that you will run into. Good time to inspect fuel / brake lines.

                  If its RUSTY inside it should be replaced, although you could probably get it running on a rusty tank.

                  I was up above it, Now I'm down in it ~ Entropy - A Build thread.
                  @Zakspeed_US

                  Comment


                    #10
                    Have you checked fuse #11?

                    88' Seta 2.7i Zinno

                    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...430-my-88-seta

                    Comment


                      #11
                      I had an issue about 6 months ago. My issue was the Main Relay and Fuse #11. Along with an overcharging alternator.

                      88' Seta 2.7i Zinno

                      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...430-my-88-seta

                      Comment


                        #12
                        Originally posted by It's Soda Not Pop View Post
                        I had an issue about 6 months ago. My issue was the Main Relay and Fuse #11. Along with an overcharging alternator.
                        good call. I got the new pump in, and replaced timing belt and water pump. Tested the pump, it’s working, tested in car and it’s not working. Checked fuse #11 and it’s bad! Replaced with known working fuse until I can get another one. Still not starting, however. Going to try test for spark tomorrow, which I assume would mean the CPS is working. Thanks everyone, you all have been very helpful!

                        Comment


                          #13
                          Originally posted by Sreihg View Post

                          good call. I got the new pump in, and replaced timing belt and water pump. Tested the pump, it’s working, tested in car and it’s not working. Checked fuse #11 and it’s bad! Replaced with known working fuse until I can get another one. Still not starting, however. Going to try test for spark tomorrow, which I assume would mean the CPS is working. Thanks everyone, you all have been very helpful!
                          Is the pump a higher flowing one? I had to run a 15a fuse in my #11. By not starting do you mean not firing or not cranking?

                          88' Seta 2.7i Zinno

                          https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...430-my-88-seta

                          Comment


                            #14
                            Originally posted by It's Soda Not Pop View Post

                            Is the pump a higher flowing one? I had to run a 15a fuse in my #11. By not starting do you mean not firing or not cranking?
                            yeah, I bought a TRE, which I believe is higher flow. It cranks but doesn’t start

                            Comment


                              #15
                              Originally posted by Sreihg View Post

                              yeah, I bought a TRE, which I believe is higher flow. It cranks but doesn’t start
                              put a 15a fuse in #11. check that fuse again and see if it popped. Also check your Main relay

                              88' Seta 2.7i Zinno

                              https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...430-my-88-seta

                              Comment

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