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Clutch and Brake Pedal Bushing Replacement

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    Clutch and Brake Pedal Bushing Replacement

    I am working on replacing my clutch and brake pedal bushings with urethane. The assembly is shown here:

    http://www.realoem.com/bmw/enUS/show...diagId=35_0183

    I need to remove the long bolt (part #28) in order to replace both bushings (part #9). My question is do I need to remove the whole pedal assembly? And if so, do I need to remove the master and rebleed the system. Couldn't find any write-ups on this but maybe I'm looking in the wrong spots. Could only find how-to write-ups and videos on e36's.

    Thanks for the help.

    1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
    Instagram:
    https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
    LS Build Thread:
    https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

    #2
    No, you don't have to remove the assembly to get the bolt out but you do have to push some wiring out of the way.

    Comment


      #3
      Originally posted by vpilarrt View Post
      No, you don't have to remove the assembly to get the bolt out but you do have to push some wiring out of the way.
      Any advice/tips? How would the bolt come out if the footwell is in the way? I actually got to the point where I started to pull the bolt out but at that point I assumed that I would need to pull the whole assembly out so I put it all back together. Any additional help is appreciated.

      1991 LS1 Swapped 318is
      Instagram:
      https://instagram.com/saltybeast/
      LS Build Thread:
      https://www.r3vlimited.com/board/for...s-e30-ls1-swap

      Comment


        #4
        I couldn’t find any info on getting these little bitches out. So I’m reviving this old thread in hopes it helps someone else’s plight to swap brake, and clutch pedal bushings. I used a 12mm socket to push out and a 22mm to receive the old bushing in a vice. And I pushed the new delrin ones in one at a time with the same vice. ✌️

        Comment


          #5
          Is it possible to do this wihile pedal box is installed in car ?
          89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

          new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

          Comment


            #6
            just to chime in since this was recently done on my car: the factory bushings are quite hard. Mine weren't too worn out but my friends who were helping me do it questioned the benefit of new bushings unless the factory bushings are very worn out.
            Last edited by Zzyzx85; 03-17-2025, 07:29 AM.
            - '87 Zinno 325is (the daily driver project)[sold]
            - '03 M3, Imolarot, 6 speed
            - '11 DGM STI 5-door (the weekend fun machine)

            Comment


              #7
              mine werent worn much but i did find a aftermarket set that reduced the slop both radially and axially. i cant recall which version i ended up using.
              89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

              new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

              Comment


                #8
                if you e30 always been manual, 99% your pedal box is cracked where clutch is mounted (see the link). If its auto conversion, your pedal box is ok obviously but I would def reinforce it to for the manual conversion to prevent cracks.

                Comment


                  #9
                  fortunately RHD is a very different design.
                  89 E30 325is Lachs Silber - currently M20B31, M20B33 in the works, stroked to the hilt...

                  new build thread http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=317505

                  Comment

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