Each time you have a new problem on your E30, post here.

[10-66kruk]

Next time you get an alignment, get a bit more caster in it. That might help the feel a bit.

If your tie rods are fucked the bushings on them will be loose as hell and give you this exact feeling.

You should get an alignment after you replace those anyway.

hmm
okay this is a good point one thing i didn't take into consideration...
Any one know if there are beefier tie rods? Kind of like all the ones that are available for 240's?

[bzboardz]

hmm
okay this is a good point one thing i didn't take into consideration...
Any one know if there are beefier tie rods? Kind of like all the ones that are available for 240's?

wheel bearings?

[devon.818]

theres a ghost in my car. he keeps moving my seat.

[lolcantturn]

blower fan doesn't blow anymore. fml

[nickflic3]

Sunroof Panel is lame on the passenger side and only half of it moves up and down :(

Oil light on check panel is lit and oil light on cluster comes on intermittently

[pharow]

Passenger window will not go up or down, and sunroof only tilts forward.

[bernzpeed]

my power steering is leaking.
ac is not working.

[byza213]

http://www.r3vlimited.com/board/showthread.php?t=212254

HELP!

[BergerNJ]

current:
front suspension seems worn badly...everything.

p/s hoses are leaking

steering rack is shot, looking into e36 swap if its worth it.

NO MUSIC AT ALL-p/o left me two 12" subs, an old head unit, no speakers and two shoddy amps.-new system on the way

my cluster BLOWS. the lights and the temp gauge sometimes need a tap to turn on, and my speedo sometimes as well....after searching the cluster threads I still am lost on what ways to fix it.

OH and I drive a vert, so I need the windows down to move the top without possibly damaging the windows or not sealing the top properly....passenger front and driver rear window switches are broken, they only look nice when lit up-no functionality.


needs a front valence.

and needs a muffler-currently running with no muffler-old one broke and sounded terrible and actually bogged the motor down so I removed it and not it runs way better but sounds loud lol

what has been done since purchase:

fuel line to what I think is a regulator or a small filter by the head was squirting fuel when running, hate to picture it under high rev+pressure...

water pump and v belts...previous owner did the timing belt but I think I'll be doing it in about 20k miles just to be safe since the water pump went right after I did the v belts.

it runs great mechanically.....the clutch and trans feel awesome for 143k on it...

[DatUtahGuy]

I disassembled my trunk latch mechanism cuz I painted my car last night, now I don't think I put it back together properly and the trunk won't open, I know everything is good because it has worked perfectly for 2+years, just something came loose. FML.

[ROLLingKING]

weellll
my lower shock bolt snapped in the rear trailing arm
after going to true value and trying to buy a 12mm bolt, they didnt have one strong enough. still being a noob to most "complicated" (complicated to me) issues, i learned i need a bolt extractor. the one they sold me snapped inside the bolt. after a trip to the local lowes i saw their extractors (after i checked there first and no one could show me the isle) and realized true value sold me an extractor that was meant for a like 7mm bolt. which is why it snapped.
now I have to replace the rear trailing arm along with putting bushings and a whee bearing in the trailing arm i picked up from the junk yard for 130.
Ive never taken apart this much of a car so this is alllll new to me and i feel im in over my head. oh well itll get done eventually i hope. cars been up on jack stands for 3 weeks now tho waiting on bi-weekly pay checks and shit. fml

[blacksport325]

weellll
my lower shock bolt snapped in the rear trailing arm
after going to true value and trying to buy a 12mm bolt, they didnt have one strong enough. still being a noob to most "complicated" (complicated to me) issues, i learned i need a bolt extractor. the one they sold me snapped inside the bolt. after a trip to the local lowes i saw their extractors (after i checked there first and no one could show me the isle) and realized true value sold me an extractor that was meant for a like 7mm bolt. which is why it snapped.
now I have to replace the rear trailing arm along with putting bushings and a whee bearing in the trailing arm i picked up from the junk yard for 130.
Ive never taken apart this much of a car so this is alllll new to me and i feel im in over my head. oh well itll get done eventually i hope. cars been up on jack stands for 3 weeks now tho waiting on bi-weekly pay checks and shit. fml

That blows man, I would just take a drill bit smaller than the diameter of the shock bolt mount and drill it out, if you make a mistake, then whatever, you already have another TA.

[ROLLingKING]

That blows man, I would just take a drill bit smaller than the diameter of the shock bolt mount and drill it out, if you make a mistake, then whatever, you already have another TA.

Yea i had a coupe ppl at the bar tell me to try that but those extractors are hardened tempered steel. my drill bit wouldnt scratch the surface.lol and i got the best they had from lowes...today im just popping out the axel, attempting to do what i can till I buy the wheel bearing tmrw and using the trailing arm i picked up from the junk yard
thanks for the suggestion tho. id love to have the $130 back for the trailing arm

[ROLLingKING]

aahhh..lol @ the stuck trunk...dang man. good luck

[klavender1]

Need shocks/struts all the way around. Realizing you can't just replace those without replacing everything they touch. No money for lower control arms or various other bushings. So probably just do KYB's and strut/shock mounts for now. By the time I get everything replaced in time, it'll be time to start over again. Haha. Then have to ask myself if an '87 325e with 286k miles is worth it. And THEN tell myself, at least it's cheaper than a car payment.