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Originally posted by IanS_in_Oz View PostE32 7 series front rotors and E28 5 series front callipers fit....
Still good info, though...
Garey
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Originally posted by BusyMrE30 View PostIs there a way to fit e36 m3 rear calipers and rotors on an e30 five lug converssion i have plenty horse power and need to stop
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Why is this still not a sticky? It's like the Bible not being a sticky on a Christianity forum.
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Is there a way to fit e36 m3 rear calipers and rotors on an e30 five lug converssion i have plenty horse power and need to stop
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there's also another update I need to add to the side.
European 323ti uses a larger rear wheel bearing, but the same rotor as the 318ti. This is a way to keep the standard proven bearing and to get extra 5mm space in the rear.
Cool addition by an Indonesian member.
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No reason this isn't a sticky. Great writeup. Let's keep it at the top. I also have a pdf copy of your website front page in case it ever goes down.
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Link to doc
Saved the link but noticed the site is down. Anyone have this great doc posted.
Thanks,
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Originally posted by hoveringuy View PostI'm going to re-post some info because I think it's valuable:
318ti calipers have a 2mm smaller piston than 325 calipers.
The current state of the art is that in order to use the e36 non-318ti calipers you need to mount them on the opposite side in order to use the stock hose. The bleed nipple is on the bottom and I need to stand on my head whenever I want to bleed the brakes....
Option two. Go to local hydraulic shop and fabricate a couple of hoses for $40 that let me mount the calipers in the proper position so that bleeding doesn't become a hassle. The brake line *may* need to be removed to remove the caliper, but that's it.
Parts used:
(2) BQ4511 Tube Nut 10x1mm x 3/16
(2) HF02 Fitting-universal ext 3/16 bundy tube
(2) HFMF05 Fitting- Female 10x1mm European (DPS)
12" 1/8" brake hose
$40, assembled and pressure tested to 3000psi
e36 m3 front piston 60mm;
e36 m3 rear piston 40mm;
e36 318ti rear piston 34mm;
e36 325 rear piston 36mm;
At least it's a move in the right direction and I would imagine it being fairly cheap to do as well.
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my fluid stayed as clear as the day I poured it in a year and a half ago, so that means I didn't leave any air in there, but I see what you're saying.
Yeah, I replaced a trailing arm before, because parking brake cable was rusted/fused in place. Such a stupid problem to have.
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Originally posted by Aptyp View Postinteresting... I actually had no issues bleeding brakes. I don't even take wheels off, nor lift the car. I put 7mm wrench on it and a brake bleeder over the nipple.
Originally posted by Aptyp View PostPS: Push your barking brake cable in.
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interesting... I actually had no issues bleeding brakes. I don't even take wheels off, nor lift the car. I put 7mm wrench on it and a brake bleeder over the nipple.
When I had 17's I bled brakes through spokes, hehe.
PS: Push your barking brake cable in.Last edited by Aptyp; 01-28-2011, 05:50 PM.
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