Wheel bearing replacement require hub replacement?

[etaFTW]

I have been hearing noise from my rear wheel bearings, not surprising for 1986 car. I tend to DIY most things, but took the car to my local indy shop because I haven't had much spare time, and I don't have a bearing replacement tool set. They confirmed that both rear bearings are bad, and told me that the hubs need to be replaced with the bearings. They quoted $1800 to do both sides. WOW!

I guess I will just suck it up and buy a bearing tool set and do it myself.

Is there any truth to the claim that the hubs should be replaced at the same time?

[roguetoaster]

You don't need to replace the hubs unless there is something wrong with them, and I'd ask the shop why they are specifying hub replacement as well. In addition to an actual issue, it could be official procedure, a shop policy (unlikely), or just padding a ticket, which seems more likely as they have not removed the hubs at this juncture. As to shop cost I'd expect 5 hours of labor and what we buy parts for +40%, so it may be in line depending on their labor rate.

If you DIY, be aware that some people have experienced issues with new hubs being out of round, although it has been some time since I have heard of this.

[e30davie]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4L9Id_gIhs

If these guys can do it using bits of pipe, i'm sure a shop can do it with proper tools.

[Zambuzan]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=a4L9Id_gIhs
If these guys can do it using bits of pipe, i'm sure a shop can do it with proper tools.

What would be the proper tools to tackle such a bear of a job? Some huge ball-joint-like C-clamp thingy ma bobber?

[etaFTW]

FCP Euro carries a tool set for the bearings, listed under the wheel bearings section . . . $465!! I can see why the guys on that youtube DIY made their own from generic home depot supplies, Having said that, I definitely don't have the time to go shopping at home depot for supplies to build my own tools, and I am not sure PVC is safe for that application if the bearing is seized into the hub . . .

Now for the good news!! My local O'reilly Auto Parts store has the master bearing tool set available on their free loaner program! So instead of $1800, I can spend $180 for BMW bearings and 4 hours of my time for the same result.

I am replacing these early at the first sign of wear (subtle noise, no play or looseness) so I expect my hubs to be fine.

[Vincenze]

You can rent most of the tools.
Some people use a large bearing separator to pull the hubs.

You may rent this tool to pull the axles back.
https://www.pepboys.com/oem-front-hu...095?quantity=1

[e30davie]

I would just copy what they did. But with steel pipe.

[ForcedFirebird]

No reason to replace the hubs on the rear wheels, specially when they are well over $300/ea - no choice on the front since bearing/hub come assembled as a unit.

[etaFTW]

OK guys, status update and question for those who have done this before....

Everything is out. 1/2 half the inner race stayed seized to the hub on each sire. Machine shop got them off clean for me for a grand total of $27, far less than $700 for a pair of new hubs!

I have everything cleaned up and ready to reassemble. The axles are definitely not going to push in easily, and I cant see a good way to pound them in without damaging the CV joints and/or boots. Is there a trick to this? Should I sprat a little WD40 or apply some grease? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
-Brian

[Vincenze]

I have everything cleaned up and ready to reassemble. The axles are definitely not going to push in easily, and I cant see a good way to pound them in without damaging the CV joints and/or boots. Is there a trick to this? Should I sprat a little WD40 or apply some grease? Any tips would be greatly appreciated!
-Brian

You can rent a special tool at Pepboys.

• Part#: 27192

This guy shows how to use it.

But he inserted the securing plate incorrectly. It should be hammered in after the nut is torqued.

[ForcedFirebird]

Axles should slide in with little effort, but get stuck after many years in use. Clean the splines really well with wire brush, and use a triangle file to clean any burs you catch with your fingernail. Use a light rub of brake caliper grease to keep them from sticking together later (or a quality high temp anti-seize).

[reelizmpro]

Tap around the circumference of the axle with a hammer and piece of wood. When I installed new axles, I had to clean the splines with a V file and use an axle puller tool (just like one of the ones pictured above) that pulls the axle in from the hub side after you get it started. This tool was only $15 on ebay and makes things much easier.

[ForcedFirebird]

I wouldn't recommend pressing them in using the tool, only removal. I just serviced the axles in the race car after 5 seasons, and they slid right out and back in by hand - the way it's supposed to be.

[etaFTW]

Final update:

I cleaned the splines inside the hub and on the axles, then applied a small amount of lithium grease. Bearings and hubs pressed in easily with the bearing press. There was room to use a woodblock to contact the edge of the axle and tap it into the hub while rotating the axle every few taps. Once there was enough thread exposed, the axle nut pulled it the rest of the way in. Did a final tighten once the car was on the ground, and pounded in the new nut caps.

Test drive = fun (and quiet!)