Subframe bushing removal

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Originally posted by E30andy

    Cool thanks! Looking at BendPak myself. Trying to figure out if my garage floor is thick enough for a lift. Gonna drill a hole in it this weekend.
    Drill two holes just to be sure, and use a quality hammer drill unless you want to be there all day.

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  • E30andy
    replied
    Originally posted by mlytle

    I have two BendPak lifts. the two post in pic for the working area and a 4 post for car storage in the other bay. zero issues in 5 years. the two post is in use constantly for various maint, resto and race car work.

    if you are thinking about getting a lift....stop thinking. just do it. total game changer. you will wish you had done it sooner. installing a lift should be the first mod done to a car.
    Cool thanks! Looking at BendPak myself. Trying to figure out if my garage floor is thick enough for a lift. Gonna drill a hole in it this weekend.

    Leave a comment:


  • mlytle
    replied
    Originally posted by E30andy

    Thinking about putting a lift in my garage prior to doing this job. What lift are you using?
    I have two BendPak lifts. the two post in pic for the working area and a 4 post for car storage in the other bay. zero issues in 5 years. the two post is in use constantly for various maint, resto and race car work.

    if you are thinking about getting a lift....stop thinking. just do it. total game changer. you will wish you had done it sooner. installing a lift should be the first mod done to a car.

    Leave a comment:


  • E30andy
    replied
    Originally posted by mlytle

    the cart was just for moving around and working on it. i have a lift, so used a tall trans jack to lower the subframe. subframe assembly probably weights 200lbs. when i didn't have a lift, just used a floor jack or short trans jack. have done a half dozen e30 rear subframe complete rehabs. three in the last year.

    Thinking about putting a lift in my garage prior to doing this job. What lift are you using?

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  • mlytle
    replied
    having a way to jack the car up in the back without using the subframe is handy too... note metal lift adapters


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  • mlytle
    replied
    Originally posted by E30andy

    I am planning this job in the spring. I like what you did here dropping the entire assembly onto a rolling cart. Any idea of the weight of the entire subframe assembly? This cart looks decent, rated for 660lbs.

    https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...8589_200748589
    the cart was just for moving around and working on it. i have a lift, so used a tall trans jack to lower the subframe. subframe assembly probably weights 200lbs. when i didn't have a lift, just used a floor jack or short trans jack. have done a half dozen e30 rear subframe complete rehabs. three in the last year.


    Last edited by mlytle; 01-18-2021, 05:53 PM.

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  • 15Michaeljoseph
    replied
    I found that a jack was the best way for me to do it. If you're planning on replacing the brake backing plates (there's likely rust around the e-brake shoe retaining pins), you don't have to worry about bending them. You kind of have to estimate where on the diff to place the jack so the subframe doesn't fall off-- some wood is a good idea to help steady it. Make sure everything is disconnected before it drops! When you re-install using the jack it'll be easier. Off the car, you'll be able to play with positioning and get the whole thing set up nice and straight on the jack saddle for an easy install. Sent from my moto g(6) using Tapatalk

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    That cart should be fine if the handle folds backwards too, but you'll probably want some way to get a jack under the assy, which may be difficult with that setup. Personally I just put a jack under the diff and let it down until it flops on one side. If you do that you should put some wood down on the floor, and be prepared for a little bending of the backing plates.

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  • E30andy
    replied
    Originally posted by mlytle
    dozens of threads on ways to do this...... it just ain't that hard, or toxic.



    it is also easier to drop the entire subframe as one unit than take it apart.
    I am planning this job in the spring. I like what you did here dropping the entire assembly onto a rolling cart. Any idea of the weight of the entire subframe assembly? This cart looks decent, rated for 660lbs.

    https://www.northerntool.com/shop/to...8589_200748589

    Leave a comment:


  • 318ti808
    replied
    I take it off the car to use a 20 ton press Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

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  • twright
    replied
    Originally posted by 318ti808
    Amazon Metric set Shankly Bushing Removal Tool, Bushing Driver Set, 50 Piece Seal Drive Set $72 With hydraulic press Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Don't you need some sort of receiver on the other side of the subframe for this tool to work?

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  • 318ti808
    replied
    Amazon Metric set Shankly Bushing Removal Tool, Bushing Driver Set, 50 Piece Seal Drive Set $72 With hydraulic press Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

    Leave a comment:


  • McGyver
    replied
    Originally posted by twright
    Can you drop the whole subframe while on jackstands? Or does it take a lift and and a transmission jack?
    Removing/installing as a single unit is by far the easiest way to do it for me (since I always struggle with the diff bolts to reinstall the diff). Once everything is disconnected and it's just held in by the diff bushing bolt and two subframe bolts, support the weight using a jack under the diff. Remove the diff bushing bolt. Slowly undo the subframe bushing bolts, leaving the nut on a few threads. Pry on the bushings until they release from the car.

    Once everything is loose, then slowly undo the last nuts and slowly lower the jack. The key is to be careful and adjust as needed, don't pry on stuff with everything disconnected or it's going to come apart violently.

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  • roguetoaster
    replied
    Yes, the DS will likely foul on the subframe when you lower the assembly. Also, removing it in one piece can be a bit violent, but not really dangerous since most of us put a jack or something similar in place while we remove the nuts from the studs. Normally the assy does fall over, so some wood or a couple of pallets can be helpful to prevent damage.

    I never seem to be able to remove the e brake lines from the tubes, so I typically have to remove the cables from the TAs, which is a hassle.

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  • twright
    replied
    Originally posted by Vincenze

    It's super dangerous with all components installed like in the photo above.

    The differential weighs a ton, and it can be unmounted independently.
    The brake rotors are also heavy.
    If you're pulling the whole thing together, do you have to remove the driveshaft first?

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