Subframe bushing removal

[steel330i]

Remove the subframe, press them out or if no press use heat and lubricant in multiple cycles and get a punch/driver kit from Amazon and a good dead blow.


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[SD-KC]

I tried the floor Jack method tonight. Froze the bushing and coated the bushing and frame in silicon spray. Didn’t work. Only lifted the car. Going to build the threaded Rod version to pull the bushing into the car.
i was wondering. Every build has a socket then washer then nut to pull the bushing into the car. Why not just use a washer?

[twright]

There is one trick I learned on the last installation: When I put the new bushings in, I put them in the freezer for a few hours before. This shrunk them enough that I could push them half of the way in with my fingers.

[monty23psk]

Having done subframe bushings 3 times now, I have some thoughts.

1. Unless you can borrow the BMW special puller tools, drop the whole subframe. If you are replacing the subframe bushings, you will probably want to do trailing arm & diff bushings while you are at it. Dropping out the whole rear subframe assembly is honestly easier than trying to do it on-car. Just make sure to cap the flexible brake lines with something that brake fluid won't destroy...if the brake lines drain out completely it might make bleeding a hassle if air gets into the master cylinder.

Thats why I bought the tool years ago and now rent it. Best $50 anyone can spend imho opinion. Can even be used while on the car. Did my e28 like that.

[bmwman91]

Having done subframe bushings 3 times now, I have some thoughts.

1. Unless you can borrow the BMW special puller tools, drop the whole subframe. If you are replacing the subframe bushings, you will probably want to do trailing arm & diff bushings while you are at it. Dropping out the whole rear subframe assembly is honestly easier than trying to do it on-car. Just make sure to cap the flexible brake lines with something that brake fluid won't destroy...if the brake lines drain out completely it might make bleeding a hassle if air gets into the master cylinder.

2. I've removed bushings both by burning and slitting the outer metal sleeve. The fire solution is toxic and will mess up the powder coating on the subframe. Cutting the sleeve is a lot of work, and carries a risk of damaging the subframe. Last time I did this job, I just paid an auto shop to deal with it on their press.

3. Installation. I have turned my own tools using iron pipe fittings & Acme threaded rod in the past. That worked OK, but I think that I was about 1Nm away from shearing the rod by the end lol. Last time I did the bushings, I just took the subframe to an auto shop and paid $100 for them to press the old ones out & the new ones in. If you DIY it, you want to use bushing installation lubricant of some sort. Dish soap and water works OK as a DIY installation lubricant.

[twright]

I'm not giving up on this. If anyone wants to help and needs a picture of a cut up subframe bushing, here is one:

[jjc034]

I don't know how you got this to work. When I tried it, all I did was bend the lip on the subframe bushing and then my 2 jaw puller slipped off the old bushing.

Lots of heat and threaded rod with sockets attached. You'll get it eventually, then have a well deserved cold beer

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[twright]

dozens of threads on ways to do this...... it just ain't that hard, or toxic.



it is also easier to drop the entire subframe as one unit than take it apart.

I don't know how you got this to work. When I tried it, all I did was bend the lip on the subframe bushing and then my 2 jaw puller slipped off the old bushing.

[digger]

I used a threaded rod to get it part way in then a 2 jaw to push it home. With threaded rod I used a bearing puller spacer/puck between the body and sub frame beam so the threaded rod went through hole of the bearing spacer so it was nice and solid so the force was transferred into the bush

[twright]

Does the jack method work?

Thread update: This method didn't work for me. All it did was lift up the car when I tried to jack up the subframe with a socket on top of the bushing. In the video, it doesn't show the bushing starting to move at the beginning of the jacking event. On my car, the bushing stayed in place in the subframe and the car just went up.

Oh well, time to try something else.

[mjweimer]

Seems like more work to drop the whole subframe but in the end it will save you time. Better access for the bushing tools and safer to apply a little heat to help break the rubber free from its grip on the subframe.

Plus you can replace the soft brake lines and inspect the hard lines at the "T" much more easily.

[glnr13]

If doing sub frame bushes in the car I gather just removing the diff bush bolt gives enough freedom?

I disconnected the diff and the axles from the diff then pulled the shocks off of the rear subframe but left shocks dangling from the rear strut mounts. had a jack under the subframe to lower/support it after breaking the subframe bushing bolts loose. I think when you have as little connected to the rear sub it makes it easier to maneuver and get back into place when you're reassembling.

[digger]

If doing sub frame bushes in the car I gather just removing the diff bush bolt gives enough freedom?

[E30andy]

dozens of threads on ways to do this...... it just ain't that hard, or toxic.



it is also easier to drop the entire subframe as one unit than take it apart.

Car to loan out this finely crafted tool you made? I dont weld or I would attempt to make one myself!

[E30andy]

the cart was just for moving around and working on it. i have a lift, so used a tall trans jack to lower the subframe. subframe assembly probably weights 200lbs. when i didn't have a lift, just used a floor jack or short trans jack. have done a half dozen e30 rear subframe complete rehabs. three in the last year.

Probably over thinking this but is it difficult to get the subframe on and off the trans jack?
Lift is getting installed next week so just thinking through the best way to get the subframe out of and back in the car without having to li on my back!