What causes negative front camber???

[BROKINBIMMER]

So you spend a couple hundred to fix something that may not exist and would have cost you $50 on an alinement rack to verify?

No. The car had worn LCABs, and I figured that 'may' have been the cause of the excessive negative camber.

So why not replace something that I know the car needs that may fix another problem.

[bmwguy325is]

No, I haven't. I was going to, but $$ is a little tight right now, and I would like to only align it once if possible. I'm thinking I'll need to replace more parts now to correct the suspension....
......No. The car had worn LCABs, and I figured that 'may' have been the cause of the excessive negative camber. So why not replace something that I know the car needs that may fix another problem.....

So then how do you know what the camber really is?
As mentioned quit throwing parts at the car and get it checked out.

[Northern]

Camber looks fine to me...

[Earendil]

So then how do you know what the camber really is?
As mentioned quit throwing parts at the car and get it checked out.

Cut him some slack. It sounds like he's only replaced items that he knew were worn. Why take it to an alignment shop when he has known worn suspension parts and is willing to fix those first?

[ForcedFirebird]

Cut him some slack. It sounds like he's only replaced items that he knew were worn. Why take it to an alignment shop when he has known worn suspension parts and is willing to fix those first?

Control arms only need to be replaced when bent. Otherwise, replace the ball joints and CAB's.

[jeffnhiscars]

Control arms only need to be replaced when bent. Otherwise, replace the ball joints and CAB's.

Easy when you have a 15t press and the right jigs. I looked around and the labor plus the joints were more than the price of a new control arm.

If you want some good cores I have a stack here with your name on it :-)

[BROKINBIMMER]

Control arms only need to be replaced when bent. Otherwise, replace the ball joints and CAB's.

Its much easier, and more cost effective to swap the whole arm as I'm sure you already know. And yes, I did replace the CAB bushings.

Easy when you have a 15t press and the right jigs. I looked around and the labor plus the joints were more than the price of a new control arm.

If you want some good cores I have a stack here with your name on it :-)

My thoughts exactly.

[BROKINBIMMER]

Ok, got it aligned. It has -3 degrees of camber. The car has zero frame damage, new struts, new stock springs, new control arms, bushings.

So what's next?

[Todd Black 88]

-3 both sides in the front?
Post your allignment sheet.

[BROKINBIMMER]

OK, a lot of folks on here are going to disagree with what I'm considering doing...


What about elongating the strut mount holes to slightly move the top of the struts outboard? I know its unconventional, and probably not recommended, but I'm talking about 3/16" of an inch tops...Thoughts? Suggestions?

[BROKINBIMMER]

Yes, -3 on both sides. I will get the shop to email me a copy and post it here.

[Earendil]

OK, a lot of folks on here are going to disagree with what I'm considering doing...


What about elongating the strut mount holes to slightly move the top of the struts outboard? I know its unconventional, and probably not recommended, but I'm talking about 3/16" of an inch tops...Thoughts? Suggestions?

It adds real weaknesses, while adding no real benefits.

[BROKINBIMMER]

It adds real weaknesses, while adding no real benefits.

So running that much negative camber is not harmful?

[Earendil]

So running that much negative camber is not harmful?

Tire wear is the only negative (no pun intended). I mostly don't think that's the way to go about fixing it. All sporty cars have some negative camber. Drive it hard and the tire wear will even out, and do tire rotations :)

Or figure out what the REAL problem is. Anyone know what the stock numbers are? I'm thinking they're near 3 degrees. Maybe 1.5 or 2?

[ForcedFirebird]

Tire wear is the only negative (no pun intended). I mostly don't think that's the way to go about fixing it. All sporty cars have some negative camber. Drive it hard and the tire wear will even out, and do tire rotations :)

Or figure out what the REAL problem is. Anyone know what the stock numbers are? I'm thinking they're near 3 degrees. Maybe 1.5 or 2?

alignment specs are as follows (as stated in my FMC book)

1987-91 E30:

wheelbase 101 3/16
front treadwidth 55 3/8
rear treadwidth 55 11/16
Camber (degrees)-.069+/-.050 Front
-2+/- .050 rear
Caster (degrees) 8.75+/- .050

Toe (inches/degrees)0.16+/-0.05 .031+/- 0.09 Front
0.19+/- 0.06 0.38+/- 0.13 Rear

Turning Angle outside 18.16 inside 20 Included angle 13.5

Notes,

Alignment should be carried out with the following load 150lb on each front seat, 150 on middle of rear seat, full tank of fuel 31lb in trunk.

suspension ride height should be as follows

Front 22 7/16 rear 20 1/16 tolerance of 3/8 inch


as Jlevie has stated, the only FACTORY adjustment is front toe, but this gives the full shooting match in case you have installed additional adjustment in the form of camber plates (front) or fully adjustable rear suspension (welded in kit)

Hope this helps

Search function is a good one.