who has studs?
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get the black ones - they have a "nub" on the end of the stud that allows you to put the nuts right into your drill/impact gun and thread them on right away. doing this with the regular ones will strip them eventually - you have to hand thread them on for the first few turns (doesn't sound like a big deal but try doing this 32-40 times when you change wheels). plus the coating on them isn't very strong so they won't last like the black ones.Comment
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Ah, well I guess I'm the only one who uses antisieze?
I do have the black competition style ones they had clearanced and the little nub is ftw. :)Comment
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I just got the regular set from vorshlag.
i think i'll order a clearance set of the black ones as well.Comment
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Seems like it... but I wish more people did! ;) We now include small tubes of anti-seize (1800° Copper based Loctite brand "C5A" in .5 gram tubes) in every kit sold in the hopes that users actually apply this to the wheel studs (the lug nut side that sees constant use, not the hub side that gets loctited in place). No, we didn't raise the prices. We now include tubes of Loctite 262 and Anti-Seize in every wheel stud kit, and everything except the 80mm kits get a 5.5mm Allen head installation wrench as well. Because we want you to use this stuff! :D
LEFT: Our 60mm 5-lug kit / RIGHT: Our 75mm studs on a wheel with no spacer.
If you are zipping the lug nuts on and off every weekend anti-seize will make everything last a lot longer and go on/off smoother. Also, anti-seize use gives more accurate torque readings, whereas thgitening on "dry" threads can add some slight bind and misrepresent the torque (under torque). This is why we and everyone else publishes the suggested torque ratings for bolts "with anti-seize." Its not a huge factor, unless you drive on the beach and get salty grimy water on the studs...
And a thing about stud coatings: NO coating on threaded steel can hold up to road salt and constant on-off cycling forever. I don't care how much a competitor's studs cost, their coating will wear eventually, too. As with many things on a race car that are used and abiused more than on a street car, wheel studs and lug nuts are a maintenance item - a cheap yet important one, at that. They should be replaced on competiiton cars every 2-3 seasons. Its just cheap insurance. For normal street use these will all likely outlast the car.
Our "black" competition studs (75 & 90m) are currently black nickel zinc electroplated and the "chrome" studs (60 & 80mm) are "clear" zinc electroplated (everything is then baked to neutralize potential hydrogen embrittlement - an extra step we take). Zinc is a sacrificial plating used on bolts and studs more than any other finish, because it works. We "yellow" zinc plate (zinc-chromate) many of our steel camber plate parts as well. Most OEMs use a zinc plating or zinc dip on almost all steel parts on modern cars, again, because it does its job.
http://www.vorshlag.com/product_info...roducts_id=119 - more specs and tips located here
LEFT: 75mm studs / RIGHT: 90mm studs
We are revising our 75 and 90mm competition wheel studs very soon, and the new studs will use a brand new hot-dip finish that our Italian manufacturer is now using on our black lug nuts. We've tested it and it not only holds up well over time, it also "looks prettier". The "black zinc" has a slight off color (green-ish) hue to it but this new hot dip black coating is "MORE BLACKER". And as Wesley Snipes said, Always bet on black! ;)
Once we "fix" the length issue we will re-issue our 75 and 90mm studs in this new black coating and likely burn through our 60 and 80mm studs on some sort of close-out deal similar to the discounts we have on the current 75 & 90 studs... then we will just carry the new 75 & 90s only. Then again, we might keep the 60's because they are so popular and cost a lot less...
Thoughts?Last edited by Fair!; 03-26-2008, 08:57 AM.Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
Project Thread for the now-burned-to-a-crisp $2011 GRM Challenge Winning E30 V8 :(Comment
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God damn it...just when I ordered me some 80mm studs for my rears you guys are coming out with a new design.IG: deniso_nsi Leave me feedback here
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Will the 75mm studs fit under a stock 15" basketweave with the centercaps installed?Comment
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And our 80mm studs are so inexpensive, its not like you're out a bunch of $$$, right?
edit: right, our 17mm lugs are not tuner lugs.
We do have two new M12x1.5 lug nut designs coming, though. They are made of titanium and aluminum. :pimp:Terry Fair - www.vorshlag.com
Project Thread for the now-burned-to-a-crisp $2011 GRM Challenge Winning E30 V8 :(Comment
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Not quite, you would have to either run a 15mm spacer or shave some off the ends which would defeat the purpose of having the nub to begin with - probably not a good idea, get 60mm if you want to run caps.
capless ftw, those dang things fall off all the time anyway. ;)
Once we "fix" the length issue we will re-issue our 75 and 90mm studs in this new black coating and likely burn through our 60 and 80mm studs on some sort of close-out deal similar to the discounts we have on the current 75 & 90 studs... then we will just carry the new 75 & 90s only. Then again, we might keep the 60's because they are so popular and cost a lot less...
Thoughts?Comment
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I've never had an issue with my caps coming off - I don't run them on the track though. I already have the regular studs, what I'm interested is the heavier duty coating and bullet nose on the end.Comment
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I am going to have to call vorshlag up about removing the studs, its a lot more difficult that the instruction make it sound. I feel like I am going to strip the stud if I hold one lug stationary and try and turn the other. Maybe it wont but I want to be sure.
I had to replace one of my strut housings and I am going to have to remove the studs again when I do the wheel bearings this summer.Comment
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sorry this is off topic but i got some wheels that require tuner style lugs just need to know if these are the right length
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