H&R Race springs spring pad questions...

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  • Vincent Vangool
    Noobie
    • Sep 2007
    • 16

    #16
    Originally posted by Northern
    I missed this thread, but just to repost/paraphrase here for commentary/postcount+1:

    I'd run the stock spring pads in the rear.
    Once the suspension settles, maybe you want something thicker to counteract the visual reverse rake from the low rear arches on the late model, but it probably handles better without doing this (IMO raising the rear a lot makes the car handle worse) I see that burg says the opposite of this though, so who knows.

    with the H&R Race, if you unbolt the shock bolt, you can jack up the rear and swap the spring pads out, so it's like a 15 minute job and may save you buying something more than once.

    Rear spring pad stuff:
    Condor Speed Shop sells little spring shims to raise/lower small amounts.
    I think:
    33531136385 - 5mm thickness
    33531136386 - 7.5mm thickness
    33531136387 - 10mm thickness
    33531094754 - 15mm thickness

    Keep in mind that the Condor stuff won't compress like the rubber, so maybe thicknesses aren't 100% comparable?
    1mm height change at the spring ~~ 2mm at the wheel, minus however much it squishes.
    Thank you sir. So I should just use the stock pads for now. Let it settle, then maybe later on raise the rear if needed. I was thinking about putting the Condor kit in it now, but can wait to see how it settles as well I am in it for the handling, not the looks.

    Are these something I should consider doing to strengthen the shock towers....

    https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw...4QlMIgapVg-nQQ

    Going to be ordering everything on Monday, so any guidance is appreciated.


    Comment

    • 82eye
      R3VLimited
      • Jan 2009
      • 2010

      #17
      never a bad thing. there are rear tower reinforcements as well.

      Comment

      • Vincent Vangool
        Noobie
        • Sep 2007
        • 16

        #18
        Originally posted by 82eye
        never a bad thing. there are rear tower reinforcements as well.
        Thanks, Any chance you have a link for those?

        Comment

        • Northern
          I like cupcakes & sh!tboxes
          • Nov 2010
          • 5224

          #19
          I don't know if those reinforcement plates fit E30 strut towers or only E36, but I think only E36.

          Rear reinforcement plates might come with the RSMs
          Originally posted by priapism
          My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
          Originally posted by shameson
          Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

          Comment

          • Northern
            I like cupcakes & sh!tboxes
            • Nov 2010
            • 5224

            #20
            Lots of places make them, sometimes included with the RSMs already (especially for anything that can accomodate 12mm shock.)

            Originally posted by priapism
            My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
            Originally posted by shameson
            Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

            Comment

            • Vincent Vangool
              Noobie
              • Sep 2007
              • 16

              #21
              Originally posted by Northern
              Lots of places make them, sometimes included with the RSMs already (especially for anything that can accomodate 12mm shock.)
              Thanks, I already have the RSM plates.

              Comment

              • reelizmpro
                R3V OG
                • Dec 2003
                • 9531

                #22
                Originally posted by Vincent Vangool

                Thank you sir. So I should just use the stock pads for now. Let it settle, then maybe later on raise the rear if needed. I was thinking about putting the Condor kit in it now, but can wait to see how it settles as well I am in it for the handling, not the looks.

                Are these something I should consider doing to strengthen the shock towers....

                https://www.fcpeuro.com/products/bmw-strut-tower-reinforcement-plate-front-e36-z3-31312489795?fbclid=IwZXh0bgNhZW0CMTAAYnJpZBExZkR2c Wg3SjM4Z3NNMlJqQ3NydGMGYXBwX2lkEDIyMjAzOTE3ODgyMDA 4OTIAAR41Vv-UWjWYmxLuBW0u21E7ah5eaYW1b3UlIdBXn7MiP3OviOTrsE7wu WLHgw_aem_nIoYdwZf4QlMIgapVg-nQQ

                Going to be ordering everything on Monday, so any guidance is appreciated.

                H&R recommends rear camber correction for the Race springs since they are so low. This means installing camber/toe adjustments on your rear subframe. Another way is to simply install thicker spring pads (or stack them) to raise the rear, not only for looks but to dial out some of that excessive negative camber.
                Last edited by reelizmpro; 04-26-2026, 11:09 AM.
                "I'd probably take the E30 M3 in this case just because I love that little car, and how tanky that inline 6 is." - thecj

                85 323i M TECH 1 S52 - ALPINEWEISS
                88 M3 - LACHSSILBER
                89 M3 - ALPINEWEISS II
                91 M TECH CABRIO 2.7L TURBO - MACAOBLAU

                Comment

                • 82eye
                  R3VLimited
                  • Jan 2009
                  • 2010

                  #23
                  Originally posted by reelizmpro

                  H&R recommends rear camber correction for the Race springs since they are so low. This means either install camber/toe adjustments on your rear subframe. Another way is to simply install thicker spring pads (or stack them) to raise the rear, not only for looks but to dial out some of that excessive negative camber.
                  i agree. some cars seem more excessive than others too. for a street car i'd have gone with sport suspension over race.

                  Comment

                  • Vincent Vangool
                    Noobie
                    • Sep 2007
                    • 16

                    #24
                    Originally posted by reelizmpro

                    H&R recommends rear camber correction for the Race springs since they are so low. This means installing camber/toe adjustments on your rear subframe. Another way is to simply install thicker spring pads (or stack them) to raise the rear, not only for looks but to dial out some of that excessive negative camber.
                    I had written H&R awhile back and asked this question....

                    "The Real Question I am wondering is: With either of these set ups: Race/ Koni or Super Sport/Koni, Would either need the 12mm raised subframe for the excessive camber created by lowering the car? They offer the 12MM raised subframe bushings for extremely lowered cars. Do either of these fit in that category? My subframe bushings are the original ones, so prob swapping those out as well and want to get the right ones: stock height vs 12mm raise."

                    Their answer was...

                    "Since the drop is past 2” on the race springs, it’s entirely possible you’ll need other supporting mods for a proper alignment. From my experience, I haven’t heard of anyone needing that, but we just don’t know for sure."

                    Seems that in my communications, I asked the question again...

                    "But for me the real question is what bushings height do I need? and it seems that the stock height still works with at least the sports and the SS and prob the Race? Do you know if the SPEC E30 guys use the 12MM raised subframe bushings as they all rune the race springs.​"

                    They responded

                    "As for the bushings choice; I don’t believe you’re going to need the 12mm risers. None of my colleagues (some being previous E30 owners) have not seen these be a necessity while installing our springs.​"
                    Last edited by Vincent Vangool; 04-27-2026, 05:21 AM.

                    Comment

                    • Vincent Vangool
                      Noobie
                      • Sep 2007
                      • 16

                      #25
                      Originally posted by 82eye

                      i agree. some cars seem more excessive than others too. for a street car i'd have gone with sport suspension over race.
                      I was between Race, Super Sport, and Sport. I read a ton of what people thought about each, and in the end it seemed like many people thought race were great for a street car and that the sports and especially the Super Sports were a bit soft and not much of an improvement over stock.

                      I guess I'll find out.... worst case I'll swap them out later on for sports or Super Sports.

                      Comment

                      • Vincent Vangool
                        Noobie
                        • Sep 2007
                        • 16

                        #26
                        Originally posted by McGyver
                        If you're going lower, I suggest a skid plate. I have a red46 and it does a great job of protecting against little stuff like rocks or light-medium impacts. I split my oil pan on a massive impact, but I can't really fault the skid plate for that. The weld-in plates may be more substantial protection, but I've never tried that route.
                        I am most likely gonna do that. I'm hoping not to weld one in though. I looked a bit but haven't found much out there other than the weld in one. Any links to decent skid plates is appreciated.

                        Comment

                        • 82eye
                          R3VLimited
                          • Jan 2009
                          • 2010

                          #27
                          Originally posted by Vincent Vangool

                          I was between Race, Super Sport, and Sport. I read a ton of what people thought about each, and in the end it seemed like many people thought race were great for a street car and that the sports and especially the Super Sports were a bit soft and not much of an improvement over stock.

                          I guess I'll find out.... worst case I'll swap them out later on for sports or Super Sports.
                          i run sports and they are hard as rocks. i have matched billies with them which is a stiffer shock too. the konis ride a little softer. even the sport springs work out to a bigger drop than most realize when looking at a stock height car.

                          Originally posted by Vincent Vangool

                          I am most likely gonna do that. I'm hoping not to weld one in though. I looked a bit but haven't found much out there other than the weld in one. Any links to decent skid plates is appreciated.
                          skid plates often take out the rad support requiring body work on the car if they take a hit. the welded skids won't create the the same problems if you get a rock.

                          edit: on race you are definitely gonna run into camber issues on the back. consider dropping the sub and welding in the subframe adjustment kit.

                          Comment

                          • MrBurgundy
                            R3V Degenerate
                            • Mar 2012
                            • 5531

                            #28
                            I will add that when I raised the rear 5mm my - camber wear is no were near as bad

                            I've hear very mixed reviews about camber adjusters on the rear sub frame.

                            If they were decent reviews, def work it IMO, but unfortunately not.

                            10 dollar rubber pads and 15 minutes sounds a lot better than dropping the rear sub frame
                            Current Collection: 1990 325is // 1987 325i Vert // 2003 525i 5spd // 1985 380SL // 1992 Ranger 5spd // 1973 Porsche 914 // 2005 Avalanche // 2024 Honda Grom SP // 2024 Yamaha XSR700 // 2025 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon X

                            Comment

                            • Northern
                              I like cupcakes & sh!tboxes
                              • Nov 2010
                              • 5224

                              #29
                              Originally posted by 82eye

                              i run sports and they are hard as rocks. i have matched billies with them which is a stiffer shock too. the konis ride a little softer. even the sport springs work out to a bigger drop than most realize when looking at a stock height car.

                              skid plates often take out the rad support requiring body work on the car if they take a hit. the welded skids won't create the the same problems if you get a rock.

                              edit: on race you are definitely gonna run into camber issues on the back. consider dropping the sub and welding in the subframe adjustment kit.
                              Agree with the high pressure gas billies making the car ride stiffer. I think Konis and H&R Race should be a good combo, but I always tried to get the front lower and would bottom out my H&R Race setup. As long as OP is not trying to be 2010-era hellaflush, he should be fine.

                              I'm also somewhat anti-skidplate... I ran raised motor mounts and never blew up an oil pan. Skidplate will definitely add some protection, but I think it also creates a feedback loop where it makes the lowest spot of the car lower -> you hit more stuff -> you are thankful you have a skidplate because "look at all it protected me from"

                              I'm a big fan of the subframe risers. Maybe something is wrong with me/my car, but my wear was never bad on H&R Race even before subframe risers. Not a fan of the common adjustable subframe stuff due to slip and how many people seem to weld them on in a way that doesn't allow enough adjustment.
                              Originally posted by priapism
                              My girl don't know shit, but she bakes a mean cupcake.
                              Originally posted by shameson
                              Usually it's best not to know how much money you have into your e30

                              Comment

                              • McGyver
                                Just need a paperclip & some duct tape
                                • Jun 2009
                                • 4609

                                #30
                                Originally posted by Northern
                                I'm a big fan of the subframe risers. Maybe something is wrong with me/my car, but my wear was never bad on H&R Race even before subframe risers. Not a fan of the common adjustable subframe stuff due to slip and how many people seem to weld them on in a way that doesn't allow enough adjustment.
                                This really is the issue. I made my own camber/toe adjuster brackets to use e39 eccentric bolts. I thought I had a good idea of my alignment specs ahead of time, but my first attempt didn't allow for enough correction. I cut them off and tried again, which got my camber to a really good spot, but I've still got too much toe, which makes the car feel twitchy. I plan to try again when I swap in the new engine.

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                                1987 - 325i Convertible Delphin Auto [SOLD], 325i Convertible Delphin Manual [SOLD]
                                1989 - 325i Convertible Bronzit m30b35 swapped [SCRAPPED], 325i Sedan Alpine Auto[DD]
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