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What oil weight is everyone using?

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    #76
    I didn't think of this... but is there a significant different between the oil needs of the M20 vs the M42?
    '88 325ic - Vert in winter baby!
    '91 318is - Gone :(
    '95 530i - Gone :(

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      #77
      Originally posted by walktheboard View Post
      this thread=perfect for my question.
      I'm using 5w20, way too light?
      I told my dad about the majority of r3v using heavier weighted oil, and he says that it's just more for the engine to work through. I suggested 20w50.
      my oil pressure light flickers in the lower RPM's, and shines very dull at cruising speeds. no knocking
      The M20 is designed to run on the heavier weight oils your way too light, this why you dont have enough oil pressure and you idiot light is going on at idle

      Has nothing to do with engine break in at all
      Originally posted by Fusion
      If a car is the epitome of freedom, than an electric car is house arrest with your wife titty fucking your next door neighbor.
      The American Republic will endure until the day Congress discovers that it can bribe the public with the public's money. -Alexis de Tocqueville


      The Desire to Save Humanity is Always a False Front for the Urge to Rule it- H. L. Mencken

      Necessity is the plea for every infringement of human freedom. It is the argument of tyrants.
      William Pitt-

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        #78
        ^ that's what I thought. I have a new oil pressure sensor I'll be putting in when I replace the oil(just in case).
        or maybe I'll just not be lazy, and put in my oil pressure gauge... since I have convinced myself that I should turbo instead of swap;)
        edit: thanks for confirmation!
        sigpic
        Originally posted by e30hijinks
        I move faster than "the speed of light." I'm always connected to my Blackberry and am ready to purchase at a moment's notice. I do not play games

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          #79
          I switched to 15w50 Mobil 1


          G.Verelli

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            #80
            15w40 in the m20 because it's burning oil,
            10w40 Amsoil in the m52
            I got a fender roller now! LMK if you need me to roll your fenders or want to rent the tool from me locally.

            Paypal: vdang5@gmail.com

            Delta Auto Care
            2875-C Towerview Road
            Herndon, VA
            703.435.1375

            My Feedback Thread: Evil_Twin

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              #81
              I run Mobil 1 15w50 in my m30. Bloody expensive though.
              $500, Diamantschwarz, and a Dream

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                #82
                Originally posted by wildstoats View Post
                I run Mobil 1 15w50 in my m30. Bloody expensive though.
                ya but you dont gotta change every 3k with synthetic so it really isnt that much every 12k is recommended in synthetic unless every 3k u wanna piss away money :)
                sigpic

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                  #83
                  Originally posted by mrsleeve View Post
                  hey 10: whats the cost like for a advanced for a diesel engine. Been meaning to send a sample out from my truck some time to some one. its been a while.
                  Actually I was wrong, Polaris is actually cheaper than blackstone for a basic test analysis. I dont work in customer service so I dont see much as far as pricing goes, but looking on the site the basic for engines is $22 and advanced is $28. The basic test includes elemental metals, viscosity, water %, soot content and fuel dilution. The advanced also includes oxidation/nitration and TBN (total base number). I would go advanced (with Polaris or whoever else) to get that base number which gives you an idea of the protective quality left in your oil which can help determine how often you need to change it. Many people are usually surprised to learn you can go longer than 3k, synthetic or not.

                  They send you a report via email that has a severity scale and actual numbers/percents and also the data analyst who reviews your sample will leave notes for you based on any specific "red flags". Also you can call and talk with them on the phone if you have additional questions.

                  This has turned into an ad for Polaris I know, but based on what I know about the M20, 10W30 is too thin. I run anything that has 50 weight in it like Castrol syntec 5W50 (not actually a true synthetic but very good stuff) or Mobil 1 15W50.

                  Justin
                  sigpic

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                    #84
                    valvoline full synthetic 5w-40. is that too light for my M20?
                    Much wow
                    I hate 4 doors

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                      #85
                      I actually have a 10W40 in my car at the moment because its all I had at the time and I needed to change it. I will sample it soon when I go back to a 50 weight and I will be able to compare wear metals from when I had 5W50. If it is too thin, there is potential for metal to metal contact and I could see an increase in those metals.

                      The idea is to have the right viscosity so that the oil is wearing, not the engine.
                      sigpic

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                        #86
                        BTW in the latest Drag Racing Magazine they have an article about ZDDP. Apparently Valvoline makes an (stictkly race oil) with ZDDP.
                        Randall Racing and Engineering
                        Acworth, Georgia, 30101
                        http://www.facebook.com/RandallRacingandEngineering

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                          #87
                          Originally posted by cobraken View Post
                          BTW in the latest Drag Racing Magazine they have an article about ZDDP. Apparently Valvoline makes an (stictkly race oil) with ZDDP.
                          yep, Valvoline VR1. Its a "race oil' but it is easy to get (every auto parts store I've worked at stocked it)
                          1989 cirrisblau-metallic 325i

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                            #88
                            Out of Drag Racing Action Magazine.

                            Blame It On… CLEAN AIR

                            The Reduction Of Zinc In Oil Will Create Wear Problems

                            Story by Dennis Quitoni



                            Do you have a scuffing problem?



                            I’m talking about your engine.



                            You could be suffering from a reduced amount of Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphate. Now you get it, yes, in your oil.



                            Better known outside the medical industry as ZDDP, or simply zinc, a reduced amount of ZDDP may not affect your heart and body, but it very well may affect your pocket book. You see it all started in the late ‘90s.



                            That’s when the powers that be in Washington (read as the Environmental Protection Agency - EPA) decided that the percentage of zinc additives in passenger car motor oil was too high and was destroying catalytic convertors and therefore polluting the air. Well, we all want cleaner air and longer life in our catalytic converters, so I can’t fault the government. Alright, maybe just a little, but you see they failed to tell us something. With “us” being the flat tappet push rod people. You know, the solid and hydraulic lifter camshaft people, and you know who you are.
                            Randall Racing and Engineering
                            Acworth, Georgia, 30101
                            http://www.facebook.com/RandallRacingandEngineering

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                              #89
                              Originally posted by SpecM View Post
                              yep, Valvoline VR1. Its a "race oil' but it is easy to get (every auto parts store I've worked at stocked it)
                              Half price at Autozone until 5/31. :)
                              1973 Bavaria

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                                #90
                                Anybody know if it's not a good idea to switch from the rotella diesel stuff to normal dino oil?
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