What Torque Wrench Do You Use?

[88SuperETABD]

Hey all, gonna be building the rest of my motor and instead of borrowing my friends again, I can afford to buy some new torque wrenches. Looking to buy a 1/2" drive 30-250ft-lb and a 3/8" 30-250in-lb. I'm looking at CDI (Made by Snap-On), Crafstman (Cuz cheap), or getting my late Grandpa's MAC Tools 1/2" 30-250ft-lbs torque wrench calibrated (its ~20yrs old and still works, but worried about accuracy) and use it & only purchase an in-lbs wrench.


What torque wrench do you use? What would be proper for building motors/car work?

[nando]

IMO the ones from HF are the best value for a home mechanic by far. they're like $20 with a lifetime warranty, and people have tested them to be nearly as accurate as the top shelf items. if you depend on it for your paycheck, get something nice like snap on, but you don't need something that expensive to work on your car once every 6 months.

Otherwise, I wouldn't touch anything from Sears with a ten foot pole. You pay way more and you get even worse quality than HF. I had the same HF torque wrench for 10 years and never had a single issue, I ended up getting another one just because I figured it's probably out of calibration by now. I leave the original one in my trunk, it still works fine.

Most of the critical bolts on an M20 are TTY anyway (torque/angle), which you can't really even mess up unless you forget a stage or something.

[Klug]

I only use the best- set everything Pittsburg torque specifications.

(Harbor Freight)

[BruceJ]

I have a couple of Sears torque wrenches. Bought both in 1990. I've worked in a calibration lab for the past 10 years. I recently tested both.

Both were by no worse than 2% off of indicated value when operated CW. Both are spec'ed, like most torque wrenches, to be accurate to 4% of indicated value when operating in a CW manner. Cant really speak for what Sears does these days but I don't doubt they put their brand on whoever delivers them the cheapest.

CDI was bought by Snap-on years ago. Both sell reputable products. As long as they have not been abused most of the micrometer style Tq wrenches they make are good stuff. Typically, both can be adjusted if performing out of Tolerance.

If you are a backyard mech, have low usage, always back off the handle completely after each use, keep it stored in a low humidity environment, and don't drop them, they will last forever. But if you want to know if it is accurate, a cal lab is the only way. If all you want is testing done in a CW manner say so. and ask if its cheaper.

If professional, pay to get them calibrated every year without fail. It will wear with use and you will end up under torqueing.

Tips for use:
1. Many are marked with a line on the handle. Center your hand on the line for normal use.
2. (micrometer style) Always back off the handle to the stop after use.
3. Put it away after use. They don't do well being dropped, left in the rain, etc.
4. UNLESS its made by the mfr, and comes with instructions do not add extensions to the handle of micrometer style Tq wrench. The Tq you think you are getting at the click will be bogus.

[Beau B]

IMO the ones from HF are the best value for a home mechanic by far. they're like $20 with a lifetime warranty, and people have tested them to be nearly as accurate as the top shelf items. if you depend on it for your paycheck, get something nice like snap on, but you don't need something that expensive to work on your car once every 6 months.

Otherwise, I wouldn't touch anything from Sears with a ten foot pole. You pay way more and you get even worse quality than HF. I had the same HF torque wrench for 10 years and never had a single issue, I ended up getting another one just because I figured it's probably out of calibration by now. I leave the original one in my trunk, it still works fine.

Most of the critical bolts on an M20 are TTY anyway (torque/angle), which you can't really even mess up unless you forget a stage or something.

I concur with the Harbor Freight (HF) I think Car Craft Magazine did a test a few years back and put the HF as the best buy for the money. It was just as accurate and to be honest unless you are going to take you wrench in to calibrate it every 6 months and "exercise" the wrench before each use, which most home mechanics don't do HF is your best bet. Just IMO

[240trainee]

I use a Snap On digital wrench, but thats huge money for an at home mechanic.

Out of your choices, getting the MAC re-calibrated is your best bet. make sure to store it wound back so its not under tensioned while stored.

[AndrewBird]

One thing to consider with Craftsman, they DO NOT warranty their torque wrenches as they are not considered a hand tool for some stupid reason. The plastic lock ring on mine broke so I tried to return it for another and they wouldn't exchange it. When I asked why it was covered the employee said, and I quote, "Because it torques". :smh:

I have heard great things about Precision Instruments. Supposedly used to be/are a supplier for Snap-On. Beam wrenches also never need calibration.

http://www.amazon.com/Precision-Instruments-PREC3FR250F-Torque-Wrench/dp/B002XMSFIM

This is a pretty accurate way to calibrate at home:

http://gl1800riders.com/forums/showthread.php?232615-How-to-perform-your-own-torque-wrench-calibration-testing

[nrubenstein]

I use a Precision for 1/2" work (it doesn't need to be zeroed, which is awesome, and it's incredibly fast to adjust - they were Snap-On's torque wrench of choice before CDI), and a couple of CDIs in 3/8" for low and really low torque ranges.

[nrubenstein]

Also, if you shop around carefully, the Precision and CDI wrenches can be had for prices that are comparable to the Craftsman pieces of shit. So while it may be worth getting the HF wrench, there is literally no reason to touch the Craftsman pieces.

[TobyB]

here's mine, for 98% of what I do.

I have a couple of older Craftsman that still work, so I use them for heads, and not much else.

t

[markseven]

$11.99 for the HF torque wrench (with coupon - it's easy to locate one) through 12/31.

[ThatOneEuroE30]

Got my digital craftsman. love it

[scarecrow]

I wouldnt build a motor with a HF torque wrench. The only thing i would torque with them is lug nuts. For the 3/8s drive I would recommend the GearWrench 85051 its $100. Matco rebrands it and sells it on the tool truck for $280 lol. Same with the 1/2 Husky H2DTW. $85 dollars at home depot or $320 on the tool truck . These would do the trick and save you some cash.

[88SuperETABD]

For all those telling me to get hf, I'm sorry, but all that shit is garbage. I had one and it broke after torquing my wheels, and their torque wrenches aren't lifetime, I will never buy anything from that store again unless it's 1 time use.

I want my torque wrench to last a long time, and I will use it a lot. I'm constantly doing something to my car so it would get a lot of use, and I know how to properly care for a torque wrench.

So it seems Craftsman torque wrenches have Turned to shit because they're plastic now and made much cheaper. (40$ now). I'm gonna recalibrate my Mac 1/2", the. I think I'm gonna go with the CDI 3/8" for in-lbs. I'll check out precision tools pricing.

[Northern]

From my experience, no click style torque wrench is "Lifetime".

We have maybe 20-25 torque wrenches/screwdrivers at work, and they get checked weekly, then sent out for calibration when they're off more than 4% (or just periodically if they don't fail the check) If they can't be calibrated within 4%, they disfigure them and scrap them. Our storespeople usually destroy 3-5 snapon or similar quality torque wrenches every 6 months.

They obviously get used much more than I'd use one on my car though.

At home, I have a Mastercraft 1/2" which is mostly used for lug nuts, and a Mastercraft Maximum 3/8" which I've used a few times for smaller stuff. I'll probably replace them in 5 years if I'm doing anything important as a precaution.